With spring cleaning fully underway and summer promising an early start, we hope you are able to take a few moments to unwind and enjoy this month’s exceptional Savvy Selections featuring outstanding red wines from Kacaba Vineyards, (pronounced ka-SAH-bah).
Accredited Sommelier Derek Vollrath, one of the newest members of the Savvy Team, recently caught up with Kacaba’s winemaker John Tummon. John provided insight as to how he got started in winemaking and how that start has helped shaped his “hands on’ philosophy to grape growing and winemaking. For those that want to experience the inside scoop first hand as to how the wine was made and what is behind the finished product, the Savvy Team is busy organizing a dinner with John. As soon as the details of this winemaker’s dinner are finalized, you will be the first to know.
In this edition of the Savvy eZine, Derek describes some of the more technical aspects of winemaking including vineyard management all the way to harvesting and fermenting. As always we provide our Savvy Selection subscribers with tasting notes from the tasting panel along with our Sommeliers favourite recipes specifically chosen to pair with these wines.
For May’s release the Savvy Sommeliers (Derek, Julie, Doug & I) were not alone in their quest to find the best wines to bring to you - we were joined by an enthusiastic group of seven Savvy Selections subscribers (now that’s a tongue twister). They spent one evening in early spring swirling, smelling, sipping, discussing and simply enjoying the half a dozen wines that were candidates for this month’s feature. Rest assured that this job was not all fun and games – there were heated discussions, analysis and lively conversations to short list the final three wines. Two hours of hard work, this dedicated group is proud to offer to you the following selections for May:
· Cabernet VQA 2005
· Syrah VQA 2006
· Reserve Meritage VQA 2007
Psst…an inside tip!
If you are looking to impress your friends with an expensive tasting wine we recommend the 2005 Cabernet. Our Savvy tasting panel was ready to pay $40 for this wine. At $16.95, this wine is hands down excellent value. If you would like additional bottles to make this your ‘house wine’, simply call me to arrange a special order. I promise not to tell anyone what you actually paid for it. (wink-wink)
As always please feel free to contact us and let us know how you enjoyed the wines and the recipes picked to accompany them.
Cheers!
PS: Looking for a perfect wine to take to your next neighbourhood BBQ? There is no better way to thank your host (and wow them too!) with a bottle of wine from Kacaba. So if you would like additional bottles it is easy – simply contact me to arrange a special order for you.
KACABA VINEYARDS
Presented by Sommelier Derek Vollrath
John Tummon, winemaker at Kacaba Vineyards, decided to make a career change late in life - for Savvy Selection subscribers we’re thankful that he did! Prior to joining Kacaba, John was involved in the fitness industry as the owner of a fitness equipment distribution company that sold treadmills, rowing machines and weight training equipment to dealers throughout North America.
After John retired from this career, he decided to pursue his true passion of winemaking, on a full time basis. John has been involved with wine since he began making while in university during the early 1970’s. In addition to making wine, John was actively involved in judging wine. It was during his years as a judge that he honed his exceptional skill of being able to recognize and identify wine faults. In 1988, he completed the week long German Wine Academy Course (in Germany no less). In that same here John won the Wine Taster of the Year Award at the Amateur Winemakers of Ontario (AWO) and was the first person to attain a perfect score.
It was meant to be…
In 2004, during the Buckhorn Wine Festival (BTW – the Savvy Team will be there this year – join us!), through word of mouth, John learned that Kacaba was looking for a new winemaker. It was also through word of mouth that winery owner Michael Kacaba, found out that John was looking for a position as head winemaker. The stars were definitely in alignment! John came to the table with a strong business background along with a sound knowledge of winemaking, exactly the skills that Michael was looking for.
After working for years as an “amateur” winemaker John joined the Kacaba team seamlessly and successfully making the leap into the big leagues.
Pro vs. Joe…
What is the main difference between an amateur winemaker and a professional winemaker? Well, aside from the difference in the pay cheque, a professional winemaker can not afford to make a mistake. If mistakes are made during the winemaking process and those mistakes can not be corrected, the entire batch may have to be thrown out – undoubtedly very costly to the winery.
Location, Location, Location…
Kacaba’s vineyards run along the slope of the Niagara Escarpment. This location benefits Kacaba as the slope of the escarpment helps create a unique micro climate. Cold air is able to drain down the hill and into Lake Ontario; because of this flow of air Kacaba’s vineyards are not impacted by frost. Interesting to note that Kacaba vineyards are usually a few degrees warmer than their neighbours’. Those degrees are crucial as they help keep the vines alive in colder years and prevent frost from damaging the fruit crop.
Philosophy matters…
John’s philosophy to viticulture (winespeak: for grape growing) and vinification (winespeak: for wine making) is simple & straightforward - he takes a consistent and natural approach to both. How is that achieved?
When it comes to grape growing John manages all aspects of both Kacaba’s own vineyards as well as the vineyards from which they source additional grapes. This approach allows John to get consistently great fruit, “If the fruit is in great shape, the winemaker adds very little at the end”. In addition to growing great fruit, John strives for low yields – result is berries (winespeak: grapes) that are of higher quality because the sugars and nutrients are concentrated in fewer bunches. The net-net: better quality berries create better quality wines. Another added benefit of managing all of the vineyards, (even if they are not owned by Kacaba), is the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA Ontario) rules permits Kacaba to label their wines “Estate”.
When it comes to winemaking John manages the fermentation process so as not to as he puts it, “beat up the grapes”. After fermentation John insists that all wines are barrel aged because of the characteristics that oak is able to impart to the wine.
John’s philosophy is solid and seems to being paying dividends as Kacaba’s 2007 Reserve Syrah recently took home the Silver Medal at the Wine Access 2009 Canadian Wine Awards. Congrats!
~ SAVVY SOMMELIER TASTING NOTES ~
Kacaba Vineyards Cabernet VQA 2005, $16.95
A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah - each wine was barrel aged for 36 months, then John devised the best proportions for the blend. Due to growing conditions in 2005 the only wine that Kacaba produced that year was this particular one – the reason John describes it as, “a true blend of the entire vineyard”.
Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: Dark ruby red with aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, prunes and raisins, to quote one Savvy Selections subscriber who participated in the tasting panel “its black forest cake in a glass”. These wonderful aromas are echoed on the palate. This full bodied wine is well balanced with soft tannins and a lengthy fruit finish. For an even greater expression of character, we recommend to decant an hour before drinking.
Suggested Food Pairing: If you have the time, its the perfect wine for a roasted leg of lamb or served with a roast beef with all the trimmings. Yet, our summers are too short to be messing around in the kitchen, so take it outside to the grill. We recommend grilled lamb burgers topped with cucumber yogurt.
Cellaring: This wine already has huge fruit and great complexity. It is ready to be enjoyed now or cellared for another 3 to 5 years.
Kacaba Vineyards Syrah VQA 2006, $22.95
The Syrah grape has found favour with Ontario winemakers and as a result it is in great demand. Syrah is also John’s favourite grape to work with because of the challenges it offers. As he noted: “even in off years Syrah can be blended with other grapes to make a wonderful wine”.
Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: The 2006 Syrah is polished ruby red in colour with alluring aromas of red cherry, sweet spice, stewed fruit and complimented by a hint of cedar. The tantalizing aromas come through on the palate as you are greeted with generous portions of ripe red berries, cinnamon and vanilla. This medium bodied wine has soft tannins, balanced acidity and a medium length fruity finish.
Suggested Food Pairing: A versatile summer wine that would pair well any grilled meat (duck, lamb or beef). For something a little different, try the recipe on the following pages – Jool’s Favorite Pasta (rigatoni and tuna smothered in a spicy lemon and cinnamon tomato sauce). This dish is easy to prepare and absolutely delicious. Our tasting panel unanimously agreed that this wine would be great by on its own watching the sun set at your cottage!
Cellaring: Drinking well now, or the wine could cellar for 2 to 4 years.
Kacaba Vineyards Reserve Meritage VQA 2007, $35
Meritage (pronounced mer-rit-age – not french sounding) was a term coined in California used to describe Bordeaux-style blends (usually red, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc) without infringing on the Bordeaux name. In 2007 Mother Nature took over and assisted John in producing a great wine – 2007 was a particularly dry year, this lack of rainfall helped to create enough “natural stress” on the vines which in turn produced fruit that was of exceptional quality. John was able to then take this fruit and produce a wine with great complexity and structure.
Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: For the tasting panel it was love at first taste! Dark ruby red, almost inky in appearance, it gives a complex array of aromas ranging from Christmas cake and black licorice to coffee and black olive tapenade. The bold flavors engulf the palate with tastes of blackberry, blackcurrant, dark fruit cake and cracked black pepper. It is full bodied and smooth on the palate with one panelist describing this wine as “exquisitely balanced from start to finish…this wine is a true delight”.
Suggested Food Pairing: This a “Big” wine that needs to be enjoyed with “Big” food. Try it with bacon wrapped fillet mignon or with Grilled Lamb Chops in a Red Wine and Mint Marinade on the following pages.
Cellaring: This wine can be opened and enjoyed now or you can add it to your cellar and bring it out in another 5 to 10 years to see how it has changed.
~ RECIPES TO ENJOY WITH YOUR SAVVY SELECTIONS ~
With Kacaba Vineyards Cabernet…
Grilled Lamb Burgers with Cucumber Yogurt
From Niagara Cooks, Lynn Ogryzlo
Serves 4
Ingredients – Lamb Burger
1 lb (450g) ground lamb
1 small onion, finely minced
1 egg
½ cup (125 mL) seasoned breadcrumbs
1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin
salt and pepper
4 whole grain hamburger rolls
Ingredients – Cucumber Yogurt
½ English cucumber, peeled, seeded and grated
½ cup (125 mL) plain whole yogurt
2 tsp (10 mL) chopped fresh mint
1 small garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
Method
Mix lamb with onion, egg, breadcrumbs and cumin.
Season with salt and pepper and form into 4 large patties.
Heat a grill to high and grill the patties for 6 minutes per side.
For the cucumber yogurt mix all of the ingredients together and chill for 30 to 60 minutes.
Serve on or with lamb burgers.
With Kacaba Vineyards Syrah….
Jools’ favorite Saturday afternoon pasta
From COOK with Jamie, Jamie Oliver
Serves 4
Ingredients
Olive oil
1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped
1-2 fresh red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2-3 handfuls of fresh basil leaves coarsely chopped
1 x 28 oz can of whole plum tomatoes
2 cans of solid white tuna in water, drained and flaked
sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1lb-1.5lbs of rigatoni or penne
Zest and juice of 1-2 lemons
2-3 handfuls of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Method
Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan and cook the onion, chillies, cinnamon on a medium heat for 5 minutes until the onion has softened and is slightly sweet.
Turn up the heat to high and add tomatoes, tuna and a couple pinches of salt. Break the tomatoes apart using the back of a spoon. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes.
At the same time, cook the rigatoni according to the package instructions. When al dente, drain the pasta in a colander, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water.
Toss the pasta into the tuna and tomato sauce along with the chopped basil leaves, 2 tbsp of olive oil, the lemon zest and juice as well as the Parmesan cheese. Mix together well. Loosen the pasta with a little of the reserved cooking water if needed.
Season to taste and serve.
Note from Savvy Sommelier Derek: This recipe is very healthy and a great time saver. I find that the lemon, cinnamon and chilli peppers makes a great combination.
With Kacaba Vineyards Reserve Meritage….
Minted Lamb Chops
From Company’s Coming Weekend Cooking, Jean Paré
Makes 12, Serves 6
Ingredients
½ C dry red wine
⅓ C mint jelly
3 tbsp lemon juice
½ tsp finely grated peeled ginger
3 cloves garlic, chopped or pressed
Salt and pepper (to taste)
12 lamb chops
Method
Combine the first 6 ingredients in medium sauce pan. Heat and stir on medium for about 5 minutes until jelly is liquid. Cool.
Place lamb chops in shallow dish. Add red wine / mint mixture, turning the lamb chops until coated.
Cover the dish and marinate in refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight (preferred).
Drain and discard marinade, preheat gas barbeque to medium.
Cook chops on greased grill for 5 to 7 minutes per side until tender.
Season to taste and serve.
Cheers & Enjoy this month’s Savvy Selections!
