A winemaker was recently asked who was drinking rosé and he replied “mostly women and smart men.”

As the curtain closed on Canada’s 2010 Winter Olympic and Paralymic Games, Canada’s largest wine festival, the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival opened up last month, with the emphasis on wines from New Zealand and Argentina as well as shining the spotlight on rosé wines.  There were 45+ wines from different countries, with varying styles showing a kaleidoscope of colour from copper to cranberry. As that could make yet another wine wheel, the genre was indicative enough to show that rosé is more than wines that are “just pink with tastes of strawberries” (my reaction to this overused comment: argg!).

Although rosé has long been associated with being born in the south of France and made largely from Grenache grapes, in the past year rosé it was reported that consumption in France has increased by 22%. Currently, every wine producing country now produces their own version. For every red grape varietal, a rosé is being made. I was amazed by the quantity and quality of many rosé’s at the Festival. Winemakers from Germany, Argentina, Spain, France, Canada, New Zealand, the U.S.A, Chile and Australia spoke of and promoted their respective rosés from how it was made, to the body of the wine and even to the time of day to drink it! 

When winemakers were asked when to serve their rosé, responses varied from breakfast to fore-noon, to afternoon to late evening; concluding that rosé was an any time of day refreshment and not just for the summer barbeque or picnic. Most agreed that rosé should be served just below room temperature as opposed to the boney cold which many, including myself are guilty.

On the pairing side with food, rosé frequently mates with the uninventive salmon along with an assortment of other seafoods that tend to put the mind in neutral, (depending of course on preparation). However, I experienced brilliant innovative pairings such as shredded lamb over polenta, and an orzo pasta with beets and greens, topped with a pink cotton candy - Executive Chef & Sommelier Tony Lawrence deserves kudos for this innovation – that complimented a myriad of dark cranberry coloured rosé’s especially those made from the Merlot, Pinot Noir and Shiraz grapes.

This year more noticeably than others, all you have to do is walk into the LCBO to be overwhelmed with the variety of rosé wines. Although being a rosé lover, I have no need of a sales pitch to try yet another delicious dry rosé wine. But to say that rosé has now found its way into the international genre of the serious wine world is an understatement. We can no longer assume that if it’s cranberry or pink, that it is sweet and without the complexity of a full bodied wine. 

The time has come for us to stop looking suspiciously at these vibrant, fresh coloured wines since it is obvious we can no longer judge a rosé by its cover and that’s not looking at the subject through rosey rim glasses. 

Some Rosé wines that I recommend to try this summer:

de Venoge Brut Pink Champagne

M. Chapoutier Tavel 2008

Bastianich Rosato 2008

Santé,  Cheers,  Cin cin, Salute !

Julie Stock

Accredited Sommelier & newest member of the Savvy Team

You are invited!

Join Julie & the Savvy Team of Sommeliers at Clink & Drink Pink - a Rosé wine tasting on Wednesday July 14th. Click for more details about this fun wine & food event

We look forward to having you join us!

The Savvy Team has just returned from another great week at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. With over 170 participating wineries and almost 800 wines to taste in the International tasting room PLUS a variety of seminars, wine and food pairings and winemaker dinners - this was definitely the most extensive (not to mention delicious) festival that we have been to yet.

This Festival brings the wine world together to:  

- provide informative, educational and entertaining wine experiences for consumers and trade;

- be a premier marketing opportunity for the wine industry;

- be the primary fundraiser for the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company.  

From humble beginnings in 1978, it has raised millions of dollars for the Playhouse Theatre Company.   During these 32 years, the Festival has grown into one of the world’s most prestigious wine events, offering education, tasting and purchase opportunities of interest to the general public, the trade and wine aficionados of all kinds.  Winemakers return year after year, telling us that they are impressed by the caliber of the event, and the welcome that they receive in Vancouver.  And this year, the event was held in the impressive new Vancouver Convention Centre, designed and built for the 2010 Winter Olympics.

Each year a featured region is the anchor of the Festival. This year, there was a twist…the region was the southern hemisphere showcasing both Argentina and New Zealand. What a delicious great duo - creating countless opportunities for participants like me to discover the breadth of varietals cultivated in both countries.

It was a revelation to learn that Argentina produces wines from cool-climate grapes, such as Pinot Noir, while certain regions of New Zealand are renowned for their Merlot and Bordeaux-style blends.

The signature wines were showcased:  New Zealand’s fresh Sauvignon Blanc and fine Pinot Noir, along with Argentina’s robust Malbec and aromatic Torrontés.

Complementing the theme wine regions, Rosé wine was the featured wine style.  What better way to drift into spring than to enjoy the widely varied styles of rosé wines from every corner of the world. 

From fine pale salmon Champagne to deep cranberry-colored rosé wines made from Malbec grapes, we had the opportunity to experience the unique qualities of saignée versus pressed rosé (different winemaking processes to make rosé wines), the lightness and intensity of rosé, truly a wine for all occasions.  Julie & I experienced that versatility in a number of food and wine pairing events. In What’s Behind Pairing with Rosé?, wines were paired with inspired classic dishes, such as smoked salmon with honeyed roasted pear - a creation by Executive Chef Julian Bond of Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. Then there were the unexpected food creations such as sautéed shitake mushrooms with strawberry mastered by Personal Chef and Sommelier Tony Lawrence of A Chef for You. 

In the fun event named Rah Rah Rosé, wine and food writer Tim Pawsey and chef Dana Reinhardt created a tasting feast, with foods featuring such basic flavour characteristics as spicy, smoky, salty and sweet available to be paired with the wide range of styles of rosés. Participants discovered for themselves the versitality of rosé wines as they wandered from station to station.

The opening plenary -  Dare to Compare - presented a wonderful opportunity to taste a range of wines from both Argentina and New Zealand. As we learned, Argentina is a country of great geographical and climatic diversity, with some of the highest vineyards in the world in Salta to some of the driest in the southern Patagonian winegrowing regions. It benefits from natural barriers - the Andes Mountains which shelter the western vineyards - and soil conditions in many areas which mean that vines can grow on their native rootstock without risk of damage from the phylloxera insect. Unique microclimates abound, leading to a wide diversity of varietals and wine styles, ranging from intense Malbec, to the lesser-known aromatic native white varietal Torrontés, on to rich Chardonnay, weighty Cabernet Sauvignon and robust Bonarda, Argentina’s most-planted red grape.

The Argentinian wines we tasted in this session were a testament to the breadth of the industry:

Bodega Vistalba ‘Progenie’ Extra Brut N/V

O. Fournier ‘Urban Uco’ Torrontés 2009

Familia Schroeder ‘Saurus Patagonia Select’ Pinot Noir 2006

Viña Doña Paula ‘Series Alluvia’ Cabernet Franc 2007

Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Adrianna’ Malbec 2006

Bodegas Trapiche ‘Single Vineyard Vina Federico Villafane’ Malbec 2006

Xumek Syrah 2007

Then we learned in the plenary about New Zealand’s southern water-bound land mass that offers a mid-latitude environment particularly suited to the production of unique, quality wines. Not only is there diversity in the varietals cultivated - from the well-known Sauvignon Blanc to Syrah  and Vigoner - but there is great regional diversity - from the established regions of Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay, to the emerging Waitaki Valley. In addition, the New Zealand wine industry has made a firm commitment to innovative and sustainable viticultural and winemaking practices which they expect will reinforce their reputation for “vibrantly stylish wines”. In 2007, the New Zealand wine industry committed to having 100% of the country’s wine produced under approved independently audited sustainability standards by 2012. Currently, it is reported that over 85% of the vineyard areas and 75% of winery production are participating in the sustainability programs. The industry shares best practices in areas such as water usage, energy consumption, waste management and biodiversity.

The New Zealand wines tasted in the opening plenary also reflected the diversity of their wine styles and growing regions:

Babich Family Estate Vineyards ‘Cowslip Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2009

Mud House Chardonnay (Hawke’s Bay) 2008

Spy Valley Pinot Gris (Marlborough) 2009

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2008

Ngatarawa ‘Alwyn Winemaker’s Reserve’ Merlot Cabernet (Hawke’s Bay) 2007

Crossroads Winery ‘Elms Vineyard Reserve’ Syrah (Hawke’s Bay) 2007

Stoneleigh Riesling (Marlborough) 2008

The winery owners and winemakers at the opening plenary displayed their deep pride and commitment to craft as each presented their winery, their terroir and their wine. The glass of Vistalba Progenie Extra Brut on arrival created a wonderful context for all the wines that followed. Owner Carlos Pulenta produced this fine sparkling wine from the fruit of vines planted by his father. Bottled in 2005, the wine was opened on his father’s 90th birthday in 2008. It was such a success, he has continued to produce it!   

Hard to imagine, but this outstanding start to our visit to this year’s Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. was followed by endless excellent seminars highlighting the featured regions, Argentina and New Zealand, as well as the theme wine style, rosé. The many rosé and food pairings demonstrated the wide range of styles and the versatility of this wine style. More about that later . . .

Now, don’t you want to join us next year at the Festival? The featured region is Spain - olé!

- Susan

Mama Mia! I had the pleasure of attending an Italian wine tasting hosted by the Italian Trade Commission, and held at the Hilton Lac-Leamy in Gatineau, Quebec.  The event was a Special Edition of the wine tour, which regularly visits Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto and Montreal.  May we hope the warm welcome will draw them to Ottawa again next year!

 Over 40 winemakers from all regions of Italy attended, offering a selection of over 100 wines from all regions, including Piemonte, Toscana, Veneto, Sicilia and others.  The event featured the characteristic warmth of the Italian hosts and winemakers, along with delightful Italian-style appetizers and cheeses selected by the Hilton executive chef.

Here’s some of the event highlights:

Azienda Agricola Giovanni di Demarie Aldo, based in Piemonte.  I am a great fan of the indigenous Italian white grape Arneis.  I sampled the Roero Arneis DOCG 2008 (LCBO 30866, $18.95, available in Toronto), of which 30% was aged in French barrique for one year.  A beautiful full-bodied wine, it had lifted aromas of fresh tree fruits and a hint of citrus.  The mouth feel was silky and rounded dominated by flavors of ripe apple and lemon pie filling.  It had a lovely long smooth finish.  

Among the whites, I also tried Feudo di Santa Tresa Sicilia IGT Rina Ianca 2008, which combines 70% Grillo with 30% Viognier – I couldn’t resist it - being a Viognier enthusiast.  This was yet another full-bodied wine with intense aromas of white flowers and ripe fruit.  The sweet ripe fruit flavors flowed on a fresh seam of acidity through to a longer, crisp lingering finish characterized by a refreshing pithiness.

 I then talked with the Export Manager of Casa Vinicola Zonin, Sr Giuseppe di Gioia, about some great value wines they are in process of introducing to the LCBO.  These include a Sauvignon Blanc (you don’t see Italian Sauvignon Blanc very often!) and a DOCG Chianti.  Zonin has estates located through Italy, thus producing DOC wines from Veneto, Toscana, Sicilia, Friuli and others.  The Friuli Aquileia Sauvignon DOC 2008 has a unique style combining both sweet tropical and crisp citrus notes.  It was very well balanced and had a silky texture with bright notes of citrus on the lengthy finish.  The Chianti DOC 2008 is in produced in an approachable style with aromas of toast, caramel and rich dark fruit.  The palate was well integrated and balanced, softly textured and ripe with berries.  The soft tannins married well with the fruit on the finish.  Watch for both of these offerings in the LCBO general list of products.

Finally, I chatted with Fiorenzo Dogliani of Azienda Vitivinicola Beni di Batasiola of Piemonte.  This producer was featuring their Barbera d’Alba DOC 2007 Sovrana, as well as their Barolos.  The Barbera was aged in oak for over a year, then rested in bottle for 8-10 months.  An explosion of berries and ripe red fruit on the attack, the wine is well-integrated and has a long warm finish.  Their Barolo DOCG is available through the LCBO (178541, $29.95).  We sipped and compared the Barolo DOCG Boscareto 2005, and the Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2004.  Fiorenzo explained that the grapes for the Boscareto are grown on higher elevations and aged in more traditional style for 2 years in Slavonion oak casks.  It had a light, almost feminine nose with hints of berries and leather.  The wine was well-structured and balanced with a lingering finish exposing ripe tannins.  The Barolo DOCG Briccolina 2004 is grown at slightly lower elevation and is aged in French barrique for about 2 years.  The result is a slightly darker wine with a full fruity nose.  A full-bodied wine is has strong flavors of dark red fruits and more noticeable tannins, producing a long intense finish.

 I hope I’ve whetted your appetite - I can’t wait to go back to Italy myself.  Italy offers a wide range of great value wines.  Sip one tonight!

Susan

Blogger Kim Bannister of WeeWelcome interviewed our Savvy Sommelier - Debbie Trenholm - about her experience picking frozen grapes during the icewine harvest in Niagara at Malivoire Winery.

 Inside Icewine

The cold weather brings one tasty treat - Icewine. To learn more about this delicious drink, I talked with wine expert Debbie Trenholm of Savvy Company.

How does Icewine differ from other wines?
Throughout the growing season, winemakers decide which grapes to leave on the vines long after the regular harvest is complete and wait for Mother Nature to turn them into gold - icewine grapes that is. The magic number is the air needs to hit -8 degrees Celsius or colder. At this point, the frenzy begins! The frozen grapes can be picked (by law it must reach -8 degrees in order to be classified as an Icewine). Some wineries leave the grapes on longer (such as -10 degrees). The trick with Icewine is that winemakers never know when during the winter -8 degrees will come.

This year -8 degrees came to Niagara in early January.  Winemakers also need a long period of time at that cold temperature to pick (some wineries have many acres of vineyards with frozen grapes) and crush the grapes.

In 2001 I was called on to pick in an Icewine harvest. While staying in Niagara doing some consulting work, I received a phone call at 11:30 one night from Ann Sperling - Winemaker at the time at Malivoire. What an opportunity!  I bundled up and headed out!

When you think of a vineyard often thoughts of lush green comes to mind. But in January, the reality is that many grapes had fallen off (these are no good), and the bare dead vines set against the stark whiteness of the snow was very dramatic. Shadows of people were cast from the head lamps of the tractor going up and down the rows of grapes being picked by people with ski gloves.

The grapes look like almost like raisins - brown & shrivelled. Mother Nature has attacked them - hitting them several times by frost. I had to snap the bunches off the vine (remember with ski gloves) and they were hard as marbels. Clunk they go into my bucket.

The winemaker’s job is to press them - they press these little pellets and patiently wait until the first juice comes out. The juice looks like apple juice concentrate that you get at the grocery story  - as  thick and the same caramel colour.

Once the grapes are crushed outdoors (they too have to maintain -8 degrees Celsius during this part of the winemaking process) they can bring the juice into the cellar to start to ferment it. As you can imagine, the juice in each grape is highly concentrated because the water content of the grapes is frozen. What is extracted from the grapes is pure nectar - this is why Icewine is deliciously sweet.

For my Icewine harvest experience, the team of pickers (all family & friends) were out for about 6 hours, until sunrise. We had to stop because the sun was rising and the temperature began to rise above the magic number -8C.

What foods go well with Icewine?
When I serve Icewine I follow a simple rule of thumb - make sure that the food is not sweeter than the Icewine - it will make your Icewine seem sweeter. Good accompaniments include dark chocolate, roasted nuts, and fresh fruit. Icewine can be served before or after dinner or as a dessert all on its own.

How much does a bottle of Icewine cost, on average?
Because of all that work that goes into making a bottle, and because, like maple syrup, it takes a lot of grapes to make one bottle - most Icewine cost between $45 and $85. I know of some Icewines that have a price tag of $1000 plus!

An interesting note: at the recent Nobel Peace Prize dinner President Obama was served an Icewine by Niagara winery Inniskillin (click here for more info). This same wine was recently featured in Oprah Magazine.

Why is the Icewine experience one to try?
People are really starting to recognize the beauty of this type of wine. Bottom line, it is uniquely Canadian. There is so much love and care that goes into making the wine that it is magical! Everything has to come together to make this type of wine: -8 degrees and a team of patient pickers.

If someone wanted a good ice wine to start with, can you suggest a few types/brands?
In Niagara, winemakers started with Vidal as the main grape variety to create Icewine. it is hardy grape to grow with its thick skin, so it weathers well while waiting for the magic -8 degrees. But with the curiousity and experimentation of many winemakers, you can get almost any grape variety in this sweet rendition. I have enjoyed icewines made with Chardonnay and Reisling as well as red icewines made with Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes. It is neat to see how the same grape can taste so different. There are also sparkling Icewines.

My favourite sparkling wine is made by Pillitteri Estates Winery.  Be sure to try the classic Inniskillin Vidal Icewine VQA, served at the Nobel Peace Prize dinner.  And if you want to indulge in a red Icewine, try Malivoire’s Cabernet Franc Icewine VQA ….and those are just for starters! 

An event not to be missed!  Check out the Niagara Icewine Festival on now until January 31st. A delicious getaway with tastings and winemakers dinners.

All of us at Savvy Company can’t wait to share our wine discoveries with you this year. 

Our calendars are filling up with wine and food events, our wine of the month club - Savvy Selections - is growing in popularity, and we have booked trips to wine regions around the world. 

And for those of you who are eager to learn more about wine with one of our Sommeliers, why not enrol in a Savvy U class to learn the fun-damentals of wine appreciation? Homework never tasted this good!

Here’s to a delicious 2010 with a glass of great wine in hand & one of our Sommeliers by your side.

Cheers!
Debbie & the Savvy Team

There is a mesmerizing abundance of wine and food books that you can wrap and put under the tree.  Here are some of our Savvy Sommeliers’ favorites:

History of Wine Words - An Intoxicating Dictionary of Etymology & Word Histories from Glass & Bottle  
by Charles Hodgson

$20 at Amazon

Charles is an Ottawa based writer and long time Savvy Selections wine-of-the-month club subscriber.  As he was researching the meanings and history of wine terms and words he asked our Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm to be part of the editing team.  This is a neat book loaded with interesting tidbits about the origin of wine words.

Cellar Book – How to Design, Build, Stock and Manage Your Wine Cellar Wherever You Live
by Tony Aspler
$20 at Chapters

As Tony puts it, this book provides practical guidance for anyone who wants to lay down wines that will be ready to open for a mid-week dinner, for a spontaneous celebration or for your children’s future enjoyment. 

The definitive Guide to Canadian Artisanal and Fine Cheese
by Gurth Pretty

$20 at Chapters

Chef Gurth Pretty has compiled the most comprehensive guide to Canadian cheeses ever published. On each page you are introduced to the cheesemakers, stories about their cheeses, and then there are 30 delicious recipes developed by Gurth and the cheesemakers to try your hand at. This book is always open in the kitchen of our Savvy Cheese Sommelier Vanessa Simmons

Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass

By Natalie MacLean

$10 at Chapters

“Simply intoxicating!”, says Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm. Debbie has read this book twice – the first time was the manuscript as she devoured & reviewed each page for Natalie, then again once the book was published. There are countless wine books, some historic, some novels, some technical and some instructional. Yet, in Red, White & Drunk All Over, Natalie MacLean shares her discovery and experiences of the different facets of wine with an enlightening twist.  Look for Debbie’s quote on page 122!

The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO 2010
by Rod Philips
$19.95 at Chapters

This is the second annual guide to the 500 best-values in the LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario). Rod Philips – Ottawa based writer, wine judge & Ottawa Citizen wine columnist has tasted all the wines currently available in the LCBO and Vintages Essentials collection – a rough job!  He chose the 500 best wines in terms of their quality and price. A handy book to have with you when are overwhelmed with all that is available at the LCBO.

Wine and War: The French, The Nazis, And The Battle For Frances Greatest Treasure

By Don and Petie Kladstrup

$19 at Chapters

“This is a page turner – I was captivated in chapter 1.  A great read for anyone interested in history and wine”, remarks Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm. All about the remarkable untold story of France’s courageous, clever vinters who protected and rescued the country’s most treasured commodity from German plunder during World War II. In 1940, France fell to the Nazis and almost immediately the German army began a campaign of pillaging one of the assets the French hold most dear: their wine.

Anna and Michael Olson Cook at Home: Recipes for Everyday and Every Occasion

By Anna and Michael Olson

$25 at Amazon

A favorite cookbook in Savvy Sommelier Susan Desjardin’s kitchen. When writing the Savvy eZine, Susan often refers to this book to pick a recipe to pair a Savvy Selections wine. She finds that this book is full of practical and humorous advice on cooking and entertaining, with culinary inspirations and handy techniques by Ontario’s premier chefs. 

Matter of Taste: Inspired Seasonal Menus with Wines and Spirits to Match
By Lucie Waverman & James Chatto
$35 at Chapters

Savvy Sommeliers Debbie Trenholm & Susan Desjardins are fans of this book full of recipes and wine pairings. Several of their favorite recipes have been paired with Savvy Selections wines.  Easy-to-follow recipes are paired with James’ witty wine knowledge and explanations on why the matches make sense.

Fresh Canadian Bistro: Top Canadian chefs share their favourite recipes

By Craig Flinn

$18 at Chapters

Author Craig Flinn, chef of Chives Canadian Bistro in Halifax, has persuaded many of Canada’’s leading chefs to share some of their best recipes for this collection. “I have just bought it and each page is absolutely delicious!” comments Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm

Other helpful Gift Guides that may inspire some ideas for your wine & food lovers on your shopping list.

Ottawa Citizen 2009 Holiday Gift Guide

Globe and Mail Gift Guide

Ron Eade’s annual Cookbook Guide

Happy Holidays!

The Savvy Team

On a recent weekend visit to Prince Edward County, I had the opportunity to experience some of the great accommodations, food and wine.  I was amazed and impressed how vibrantly this region has grown since my last visit.  

Our visit started with our arrival at the historic Merrill Inn.  Located on a county road leading to the Loyalist route, the Merrill Inn is a historic property which was built in 1878 and is notable for its attractive gingerbread-trimmed gables.  Each of the rooms is beautifully appointed with attractive linens, period antiques and updated fittings.

The aroma of fresh-baked cookies led us toward the reception at the rear of the Inn.  We were greeted by owner and innkeeper Edward Shubert, who was a constant presence throughout our short stay.  After visiting some of the local attractions, we headed back to the Inn for a gourmet dinner prepared by chef Michael Sullivan.  The Inn’s restaurant is located in a cosy room with a view to the courtyard and herb garden.  The chef uses local ingredients wherever possible, and the wine list is replete with County wines.  We enjoyed a range of delightful appetizers (beet and orange salad, and delicious crab cakes), followed by main courses (such as fresh Ontario pickerel or shrimp and scallop saffron risotto) which were a feast for the eyes and the palate.  And the desserts we chose (chocolate pudding and apple tarte tatin) were superb.  Edward, the ever-attentive host, orchestrated the excellent service.

Our overnight stay was quiet and restful.  Breakfast the next morning included a wide variety of fresh baked breads and pastries, fruit, yogurt and cereal, as well as French toast and sausages for those who couldn’t resist one more indulgence.  Amy Shubert kindly provided one of Chef Michael’s recipes that appeared in the June’s Savvy eZine (a mini magazine that all subscribers of Savvy Selections recieve with their wine), featuring Black Prince Winery.

Prince Edward County has a long history of settlement, and of various forms of agriculture.  There is evidence of winemaking as far back as the 1850s, with vineyards now growing on former fruit orchards.  And a tradition of cheesemaking, which includes a number of local cooperatives, is being taken up by newcomers such as Petra and Shawn Cooper, owners of Fifth Town Cheese.  We spent an interesting couple of hours visiting Fifth Town’s dairy and tasting their cheese.

Petra led the tour of the dairy, which was opened less than a year ago, in July 2008.  She is rightfully proud of their Platinum LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) status, and of the wide variety of handmade artisanal cheeses they produce.  She indicated that their ‘green’ certification applies not only to the buildings, but to the cheese-making process, which is very energy intensive, and requires the disposal of significant amounts of waste water.

Eighty percent of the building is made with foodgrade recycled or recycleable materials.  An example is the building shell, constructed of “durisol”  blocks which are made with recycled wood fibre and green cement.  They do not harbour moisture, as the insulation is within the block, and they are fireproof.  Other environmental initiatives on the 20-acre site include a geothermal heat pump which preheats all their wash water, solar panels and a small windmill which generate green power, and a 10,000 litre cistern which captures rainwater.  A constructed wetland acts as a natural processing facility for whey and waste water from the cheese making process.  In addition, they grow hay and alfalfa which are used as feed for the goats and sheep raised by their farm partners.

Petra indicated that their facilities are regularly inspected by CFIA (Canada Food Inspection Agency), but that since their cheeses are handmade, they have little risk of listeria infection as this bacteria tends to grow inside machinery.  Their sophisticated pasteurizing room provides for flash pasteurization of all cheeses for exactly 17 seconds.  Petra indicated that their longer term goal is to make raw milk cheeses as well, but this must wait for suitable milk from their producers.

Their aging caves are constructed of cement covered with mounds of earth.  Geothermal tubes were installed within the raw cement walls to allow some heating in the coldest months of winter.  Otherwise, the caves naturally maintain a temperature range of 12-15 degrees to allow aging and the formation of natural rinds.  High humidity (85-95%) and periodic air changes are also required for natural aging of the cheeses.  Soft ripened cheeses spend 7-14 days in the caves, while hard rinds spend a minimum of 3 months, and up to 9-12 months.

After learning about the cheese making process, we were ready for truck bed tasting with Andrew Laliberte (Cheese Somelier) in the milk receiving area.  We tasted 5 cheeses, from the soft creamy bagel chevre to the 7-month aged Fellowship hard rind cheese.  Each was matched with a complementary wine, such as The Grange of Prince Edward County’s Trumpour’s Mill Pinot Gris VQA  with the Lighthall Tome cheese (one of our purchases!).  Andrew discussed the three sources of the distinticve flavors in cheese:  primary, based on the material you use (in this case goat or sheep milk); secondary, created by the processing method (for instance curd cheese, versus feta-like cheese, versus cheddar); tertiary, the aging process (examples such as soft-ripened cheese or hard rind cheese).  He also expressed his opinion that most cheeses are best matched with white wines, although some of the older, harder cheeses will match with red wines like Pinot Noir.

If you’re a lover of cheddar cheese and you’re in the County, don’t miss a visit to the Black River Cheese Co-operative, which offers a wide range of mild, medium, old and extra old cheddar, as well as flavored cheddars and cheeses from other local producers.  We selected a 6-year old cheddar from among the many types of cheese, as well as some delightful thin currant oatmeal biscuits produced by County Crackers.

Thinking of matching our cheese to a suitable wine, we headed out to a relatively new winery in the County, Sugarbush Vineyards, owned and operated by Sally and Robert Peck.  Sally is a wonderfully outgoing woman with a young family and a passion for her new vocation.  Neither she nor husband Rob had any grape growing or wine making experience when they decided to move back to the County from Alberta (Rob is a native son).  They had visited the Okanagan 10 or so years ago, and so the dream of owning their own vineyard began.   Says Sally, “It seemed so romantic, but when you start working in the vineyard, you realize that you’ve become a farmer!”

They have a large property with 8 acres under vine (the vines are now 7 years old), and opened their tasting room about 2 years ago.  They have planted only vinifera varietals, including Gewurtztraminer, Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.  This year, they will be receiving their first 2 oak barrels, and plan to age their Pinot Noir in barrel.  The tasting completed, we left with bottles of the aromatic Gewurtz and the fruity, well-extracted Gamay.

If you’re planning a trip to the County, we recommend a stay at the Merrill Inn.  If you need any suggestions of County wineries to visit, contact us and we will provide you our ‘must visit’ list of wineries and restaurants to visit.

Cheers,

Susan

This summer has been one more for wine sipping on the screened porch (given all the rain!) rather than tripping to winery visits.

One weekend, I hopped in my car for an adventure to Quebec’s Eastern Townships.  My discovery involved stocking up on delicious Ontario and Quebec artisan cheeses and a lovely Quebec Rose wine.

Our cheese trip started with visits to Glengarry Cheesemaking new facility near Lancaster (Ontario), and l’Abbaye Saint-Benoit-du-Lac, where a congregation of Benedictine monks whose practices include a range of agricultural endeavors, including cheese-making.

We headed down Highway 417 on one of the overcast July days, looking for the exit to highway 34, leading to Alexandria and Lancaster.  The rain held off, and just before we arrived at Lancaster (literally at the access to the 401) we found Glengarry’s facility and shop.  The shop includes a great display counter with the many varieties of pasteurized cow cheese they produce, other local delicacies such as dried apples chips, as well as windows looking upon the cheese-making facilities.  We tasted a wide range of cheeses, each one seemingly more appetizing than the last.  While we enjoyed all of them, I’ll mention in particular:

Figaro – yes, it made me feel like singing! It is a buttery, delicately flavored, melt-in-your-mouth cheese that was delightful on a crisp cracker – or on one of those slightly sweet apple crisps.  Left out on the counter that evening for 15 minutes before serving, it was literally like butter!

Alexandran – named for the local area, it’s a washed rind semi-soft cheese with a lovely nutty flavor.  Serve it on its own or with some dried fruits and a nice glass of port.

Barely Blue – this delicate blue cheese was a big hit. Its firm texture, delicate veining and characteristic flavor.  This would be a great match with an apple ice wine, perhaps from La Face Cachee de la Pomme, located near Hemmingford, Quebec.

After fighting our way through Montreal’s ‘big dig’ traffic jam (is every bridge under construction?), we meandered along back roads of the Eastern Townships until we found our way to l’Orpailleur, located just outside the town of Dunham.  A pioneer in the Quebec wine industry, the winery was founded in 1982 by two daring Frenchmen – Herve Durand and Charles-Henri de Coussergues – and their Quebecois partner, Frank Furtado.  By hilling up the vines in the winter, they were able to ensure their survival and, in 1985, produced their first vintage.  The tasting room reminds me of a rustic Quebec country home, with large maples overhanging the wraparound veranda.  Once inside we were warmly welcomed and invited to visit the small wine museum.  We tasted a number of l’Orpailleur (it means gold gatherer) wines, including their fabulous rose produced from a blend of hybrid grapes and a sweet white wine produced from Seyval Blanc, called Vin de Marquise.  Recently, we sipped the l’Orpailleur Rose wine with friends as we sat on the deck enjoying our mid-August heat wave.

The next day, we were determined to visit l’Abbaye Saint-Benoit-du-Lac and its local shop.  The Abbey was founded in the early 1900s by monks escaping anti-clerical laws in France.  The original building was completed in 1941, and includes incredible brick and tile work.  According to the material at the monastery, Saint Benedict said that to be a true monk, man must live by the work of his hands.  The work of the monks of Saint-Benoit-du-Lac includes a cheese factory (in operation since 1943), an orchard, a cider factory, a farm and a store, which is open to the public.  After visitng the site and listening to the monks lyrical chants, we wandered through the store, which was practically mobbed by avid shoppers.  Not only were the famous cheeses available, but also cider, homemade pies and tarts, honey, preserves and a variety of products from other monastic orders in Quebec.  Of the cheeses, we purchased a range including l’Ermite, their savory blue cheese, Frere Jacques, a mild washed rind soft cheese, and Le Moine, a Gruyere-style cheese. 

We came away with bags of cheeses for ourselves and our hosts, and then sat down on a veranda overlooking Lake Memphramagog to sip l’Orpailleur Rose and sample our purchases.  Sipping local wine & nibbling on artisan cheese - there is no better way to spend a afternoon!

If you want a nice little overnight or weekend getaway, consider a trip to the Eastern Townships, with a stop in Lancaster on the way.  In addition to l’Orpailleur, there are number of other wineries in the area, as well as lovely inns, spas and restaurants.  Like Ontario’s Prince Edward County, the Eastern Townships is an easy drive from Ottawa, and a gourmand’s paradise. Contact me if I can help you plan a wine and cheese trip.

Cheers, 

Susan

Click here to watch Black Prince Winery’s video
 

Black Prince Chardonnay VQA 2007, $14.75
The fruit was sourced from three County vineyards, including the Wicked Point vineyard.  The fermentation in stainless steel tanks brings out the crisp minerality and zesty fruit, similar to the French styled unoaked Chardonnay - Chablis.  Black Prince Winery is excited that this wine won a bronze at the “Chardonnay du Monde” in Burgundy, France. 

With Black Prince Cabernet Franc…

Peppered Lamb Loins with Garlic & Dark Chocolate Sauce
Recipe adapted from LCBO Food & Drink Magazine, Winter 2009
Serves 4

Ingredients
1 Tbsp freshly ground pepper (or to taste)
1 tsp herbes de Provence
2 boneless lamb loins (about 1 lb.)
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp finely chopped garlic
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 c unsalted or low-salt lamb or chicken stock
½ oz. dark bittersweet chocolate (70-80% cocoa), chopped
 

Method

1.    Combine pepper, herbes de Provence and 1 Tbsp olive oil.  Brush lamb loins with mixture.

2.    Preheat oven to 200F.  Heat 1 Tbsp oil in a small pan on medium heat.  Add chopped garlic, lower heat and cook until the garlic is just golden.  Remove pan from heat.  Add stock and return to heat.  Bring stock to a boil and reduce to ¼ -1/3 C.  Add chocolate, stirring until melted.  Reduce heat to minimum.

3.    While the stock is being reduced, grill lamb on BBQ 12-15 minutes, or until pink inside.  Transfer to a dish and keep warm in the oven as you finish the sauce.

4.    Once the sauce is ready, slice the lamb into thick slices and pour over a tablespoon of sauce.  Timing is everything with this recipe, as you don’t want the chocolate sauce to overcook!

5.    Taste your Black Prince Cabernet Franc alone, and then with the lamb.  Do you notice a difference?

Cheers to the arrival of summer!

The 2009 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival’s featured region was British Columbia - a treat for those of us who enjoy BC wines, yet rarely see the range of them here in Ontario.  The opening plenary, and a number of the trade seminars, provided a unique opportunity to meet and hear from the owners and winemakers, as well as to taste some of their most outstanding wines.

And then, to bring all these attributes together into fabulous wines, you have the “cultural mosaic” of owners and winemakers – pioneers Adolf Kruger and Anthony von Mandl, who left Europe for the BC interior; John Symes, one of the early pioneers who emigrated from New Zealand; Grant Stanley, a Canadian who spent many of his early years in New Zealand, only to return to the Okanagan to produce outstanding Pinot Noir; Lawrence Herder, who came back to the Similkameen after years of producing “big Cabs” in California; Tom di Bello, who has migrated up the coast from California ahead, as he said, of global warming; and the newer arrivals, Brooke Blair of Australia, who produced a Shiraz judged best in the world in 2004, her first vintage here; and Pascal Madevon, a Bordelais who moved his family to the Okanagan in 2002 and has become a Canadian citizen who produces outstanding Bordeaux-style blends.  The outstanding wines of BC are created from this mosaic of terroir, varietals and people, and are enhancing Canada’s reputation on the world wine stage.

BC wines ready to be enjoyed

As I listened to the various speakers, the concept of a mosaic came to mind.  In fact, many aspects of the wine industry can be characterized as ‘mosaics’.  The terroir includes a range of soil types, aspects, exposure, microclimates, elevation.  And this wide range of conditions facilitates growing many varietals, and ripening them in ways not found anywhere else in the world – from fully-ripened Cabernet Franc, to brawny tannic Merlot, to lean, crisp Riesling, Ehrenfelser or Gewurtztraminer with exquisite acidity.

These themes were threaded through the discussions and tastings, but an overarching theme was the “coming of age” of the BC wine industry.  As pointed out by the moderators, the industry has grown from 13 wineries and 1500 acres under cultivation in 1990 to now over 160 wineries with more than 9100 acres under cultivation.  Yet, BC is still a small player on the large wine world scene.  Quoting Scholefield, a well-known BC wine critic and one of the moderators, “Yellowtail began producing Pinot Gris two years ago, and now delivers approximately 1.5 million cases to the market.  This is the ENTIRE production of the BC wine industry.”  BC is a niche market that must be characterized by high quality wines, a unique story, and its incomparable terroir. 

Anthony von Mandl, owner of Mission Hill, said it is time to “take BC wines to the world.  As the Okanagan, as BC winemakers, we have to go to the world . . . There’s an enormous opportunity.”  There was a consensus that BC has what the world wants!

And speaking of the terroir, there were many discussions concerning the varying terroir from north to south in the Okanagan, and into the Similkameen valley.  According to Anthony Gismondi, wine critic and Editor-in-Chief of Wine Access magazine, his opinion is that while the rest of the world is attempting to move away from big, bold, powerhouse and overextracted wines, BC wines are naturally crisp, clean and fresh wines.  “Acidity is our friend” was an oft-quoted phrase, attributed to Grant Stanley of Quail’s Gate.   

Howard Soon, a veteran of the industry and winemaker at Sandhill Winery, discussed his Pinot Gris.  “This is how we might describe BC white wine to the world:  lean, edgy, crisp, fresh.  Profoundly food friendly and appetizing.” 

As I listened to pioneers of the industry including Harry McWatters, who founded Sumac Ridge on a golf course; Anthony von Mandl, who founded Mission Hill and used to come to the Okangan for holidays during his childhood, as well as some of the more recent arrivals - Brooke Blair, Australian winemaker who immigrated to work at Jackson-Triggs and who made an immediate impression with her first Shiraz in 2004 winning best Shiraz in the world at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London. 

Anthony von Mandl - owner of Mission Hill Winery (standing), Harry McWatters - founder of Sumac Ridge Winery (sitting at right)

There was also a significant amount of discussion regarding the unique character of varietal wines made from Cabernet Franc in the Okanagan.  Not only has the Cab Franc in the southern Okanagan been shown to have unique terpenes (winespeak: flavor components), it continues to ripen through the summer heat (some other varietals shut down temporarily) and well into the late autumn.  It delivers wonderfully rich, intense wines with aromas of cocoa and herbs.  And Merlot, which is often soft and round in other regions, is the tannic backbone of the outstanding red Bordeaux style blend wine created by such wineries as Osoyoos Larose (wine name: Le Grand Vin), Mission Hill Winery (Quatrain), Black Hills Winery (Nota Bene), Herder Winery (Josephine), the newly named Road 13 Winery (Fifth Element).  Tom di Bello, of CedarCreek Estate explained, “The Okanagan is one of the best places in the world to grow Merlot.  The fruit is bright, vibrant, with more natural acidity.  And we’re getting mature tannins with less sugar because the fruit ripens sooner physiologically.”

To these pioneers - old and new - BC’s microclimates are critical.  Early pioneers planted with their palates, for instance, trying to grow Pinot Noir in the southern Okanagan.  But the ‘heartbreak grape’ lived up to its reputation, suffering through the long hot summers.  It was soon either ripped out or grafted over with more suitable varietals, such as Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Shiraz.  Brooke Blair’s award-winning Shiraz thrives in the deep sandy soil beside a sun-warmed rock formation on the 49th parallel.  And winemakers have learned that the aspect and soils of the Black Sage bench are uniquely different from those of the Golden Mile, although these sites sit across from each other in the narrow valley near Oliver. 

Lawrence Herder explained that the components of his red assemblage come from three very different parcels in the Similkameen Valley.  “We’re barely discovering what to plant where.  Each section of the valley is a specific microclimate.”

But along with this diversity, there is a unique defining character to the wine of the Okanagan.  You might call it the essence of these BC wines.  Both David Scholefield and Anthony Gismondi highlighted the characteristic earthiness and the unique flavors of Okanagan wines.   “I think you’ll find a dry herbal character somewhere in every single one of these wines.  Herbal, savory character . . . when you see that, think Okanagan,” said David.  “I encourage visitors to get out of their car, walk off the road and look at the sagebrush and everything that’s growing there . . . and smell.  That scent is somehow transposed into our wines,” said Anthony.    

While there was great focus on the wines, Howard Soon reminded us all that you have to remember to lift your head up when you’re in the vineyard – there is a breathtaking view to be had, whether you are near the lake just south of Kelowna, in some of the higher vineyards near Okanagan Falls, or on the Black Sage bench near Oliver.  “Don’t forget the unique scenery that is the Okanagan.” 

So, if you’re planning a trip to a wine region, consider a visit to the Okanagan.  Whether you visit this dynamic wine region after next years Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival in 2010 (tip: the Okanagan Spring Winefest occurs April 29-May 8, 2010), during the peak summer months, or in the fall (the Fall Winefest is September 30-October 10, 2010), there are a wide range of wineries to visit, all led by people passionate about their wines and excited to share the fruit of their vines with you.

Drop me a note if you’re planning a trip to the Okanagan, as I’d be happy to help you plan your winery visits. 

Here are a few of the many BC wines I discovered while in Vancouver last month:

• CedarCreek Ehrenfelser
• Wild Goose Stony Slope Riesling
• Thornhaven Estates Gewurztraminer
• Road 13 Old Vine Chenin Blanc
• Quail’s Gate Family Reserve Pinot Noir
• Nk’Mip Qwam Qwmt Merlot
• Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc
• Jackson-Triggs Sunrock Vineyard Shiraz
• Herder Winery Josephine
• Mission Hill Quatrain
• Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin

 Cheers & Enjoy,

 Susan