I love the bubbles in a sparkling wine. My husband Doug (also a Savvy Sommelier) and I frequently begin a dinner party with a sparkler (as I call it) since it seems so festive and welcoming, although it is a lovely drink on its own and very food friendly.

I was recently enjoying a glass of Cava, which is a Spanish “champagne” style wine named after the caves in which the grapes are fermented. I remembered learning in the sommelier classes how the bubbles are created by undergoing a second fermentation (“still” wine undergoes a single fermentation), the bottles being turned upside down then riddled. (Isn’t riddling a great word?) It definitely lead me to refresh what I know of how sparkling wine is made and in this case, specifically Cava.

As background, almost all Cava is produced in Catalonia, especially the Penedes region in Spain, although eight different provinces are included in the production area. The production methods are the same as in the making of Champagne. Spain’s Cavas are made in the Traditional Method (sometimes referred to as Méthode Champenoise).

First, the grapes are harvested and a white wine is produced. Several types of wine may be blended. Three grape varieties native to Spain are Xarello, Macabeo and Parellada.

Tirajo is the second step and the bottle is filled with the blended wine, then a syrupy mixture of yeast and sugars is added, called licor de tirajo. The yeast will cause the secondary fermentation to occur in the bottle. At this stage, the bottled wine is then transferred to the cellar with a temporary stopper.

The second fermentation is next as the yeasts convert the sugar to carbon dioxide. (It is the carbon dioxide that creates the bubbles.) This second fermentation and bottle aging occurs in the bottle and lasts for nine months at a temperature between 55 and 59 degrees Fahrenheit.

During the second fermentation/aging, the bottles are turned occasionally. This process is called remuage (riddling) and in some wineries, this is still done by hand. This turning of the bottles causes the residue from the yeast to collect in the neck of the wine bottle. The neck of the bottle is then frozen, which forces the yeast sediment out and the bottle is re-corked immediately. You can distinguish Cava by the cork, which should be marked with a four-pointed star.

A toast in Spain is practically always drunk with Cava. This is especially true when the New Year is brought in with twelve grapes swallowed in time to the chimes of the clock in the town square or in the Puerta del Sol, Madrid.

All this just makes me want to jump on a plane and go to Spain, however having just returned from the Niagara Escarpment, this will have to wait. But I suggest the next time you are browsing the wine aisles, why not pick up a bottle of Cava, chill it and you’ll be delighted with how refreshing it tastes – on the patio of course.

As they say in Spain – Aplausos!

Cherry and peach trees, grapevines – miles of them, wineries galore dotted with the odd golf course, farmhouses, B and B’s are the memories of the past week in the Niagara Escarpment. When Holly suggested I write a guest blog on Doug’s and my recent travel, I immediately responded positively although it’s hard not to write a journal, so much to see and taste!

For wine lovers, the Niagara Escarpment, Twenty Valley, Niagara-On-the-Lake locales are an oenophile paradise. While the wineries offer the usual vitis vinifera varietals: Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir etc., many have ice-wine and their own rose.  Between sipping and sampling en route, as dedicated sommeliers and wine nuts, we visited over 20 wineries, as well as attending the Cool Climate Chardonnay event held at the Tawse Winery (July 23) where 56 wineries featured their “Chards.”  For the ABC folks (anything but Chardonnay), Chardonnay still remains the most widely produced VQA in Ontario.

Every winery we visited left something memorable; whether it was the enormous stainless steel tank named Budda, at Creekside Estate Winery, or the labels on the Organized Crime Wines, telling a pictoral story of Mennonites feuding over an organ (catch the play on the word?)  Or the new Colaneri winery, 37,000 square feet, the largest winery in the region still under construction, shaped like a Roman coliseum in a hugely impressive “C” representing the Italian family and their winemaking heritage.

The viticulture was amazing at Featherstone Winery where we witnessed sheep chomping away at the grape leaves so the grapes will be exposed to sunshine which in turn, speeds up their ripening. These little sheep meander up and down the rows of vines, and it was quite humorous watching them chew the leaves. Needless to say I took pictures.

Many of the wines at these boutique wineries are unavailable at the LCBO so we brought a few home. One purchase was a Featherstone rose and have since found it to be a great patio to table “spirit”.  An enchanting cranberry colour, all the ripe berry flavours, bone dry with tart acidity that practically jumps out of the glass. We have since enjoyed this with grilled shrimps, zucchini and our always tomato basil salad which makes a divine summer supper.

We have previously traveled the Twenty Valley and the sense of anticipation with old and new wineries never ceases to amaze and never disappoints. The people are friendly, knowledgeable and their eagerness to share the harvest makes for a magnetic welcome. We’re already talking about the wineries that we plan to visit next year. I’ve always said, you never have to look further than your own backyard in Ontario to find great wine.

Cheers, Julie

My spring visit last month to Tuscany was entrancing. The trees and vines were just leafing out, the olive trees were being pruned, and the soil was being turned as the land is prepared for another season of bountiful production. The dramatic scenery is complemented with great depth of history, warm, welcoming people and the tasty vegetables, home-made pasta and flavourful sauces of the local trattoria and osteria. Then, there’s the wine, whether tasted at the Enoteca Italiana Permanente—respository of the 1700 representative wines produced in Italy, housed in the Medici fortress in Siena—in the local enoteca, or at the winery itself. We were welcomed to a number of wineries in the region, including the Ruffino property in the DOCG of Vino Nobile di Montipulciano, as well as the wineries of Castello di Fontirutoli, Castello di Volpaia, and Fèlsina in Chianti Classico. I hope you have the opportunity to visit these wineries or taste some of the wines which are available through the LCBO. 

Ruffino
Ruffino was established by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo in 1877 near Florence and was winning medals at prestigious European wine fairs as early as 1895. The company passed to the Folonari brothers in 1913, and by 1916, Ruffino was appointed the official wine supplier to the royal Italian court. Over the years, the family has added a number of properties, including Santedame in Chianti Classico and the Montalcino estate in the 1980s. In 1994 they purchased LodolaNuova to produce Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and la Solatia for the production of Tuscan white wines.  In Tuscany, the company now has 8 estates, 6 of which produce Chianti Classico, one of which produces Brunello, and the last, located near Montepulciano, which produces Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. We visited the TenutaLodola Nuova (named for the large number of larks which appear in the area in the spring) at Valiano, about 10 kilometres from Montepulciano.Yet another fortified town, Montepulciano was built by the residents of Firenze to control Montalcino, a Sienese outpost, and to monitor the border with the papal state to the south. The legend of the Vino Nobile is that in the 1700s this wine was shipped only to the noble families of Florence, hence it was so named. 

There are only 61 producers in the Montepulciano DOCG who are responsible for about 7M bottles per year. Perhaps due to smaller volume, or to some confusion with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (a wine produced from Montepulciano grapes in the region of Abruzzo), this Sangiovese-based wine (Prunello Gentile is the clone) is less well-known than Brunello and Chianti Classico. The DOCG regulations require a minimum of 75% Sangiovese grapes, which may then be blended with 25% of any other red grape varietal.

Lodola Nuova’s Vino Nobile started with dramatic success—awarded Gambero Rosso’s 3 glasses in its first vintage. The estate has grown dramatically over the years to now include 250 hectares. As a result, a new winery was built about five years ago. Local regulations required that most of the structure be underground, hence the extensive barrel cellar requires minimal cooling. The wine is fermented in open temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, then aged in 500 litre tonneau made of French and Slavonian oak. An ingenious device invented by Leonardo da Vinci, the tappocolmatorre, seals the barrel from the air, yet allows the regular topping up required.

We sampled three Ruffino wines. The TenutaLodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montipulciano 2007, dry, medium-full bodied offering fresh berry fruit and perceptible tannins; the 2005 Riserva (90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot), aged 3 years, a velvety, balanced wine with a long smooth spiced fruit-filled finish; and the LodolaNuova Syrah 2007 from Cortona (the only DOC in Italy which can produce Syrah), an opaque inky full-bodied wine with loads of ripe dark fruit, some peppery notes and a lasting toasty finish, available only in Italy.

There are a number of Ruffino wines regularly available through the LCBO including their Chianti (#42606), the Chianti Classico ‘Aziano’ (#307025), the Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale (#45195) and Il Ducale (#332411). In addition a number of wines have been released through Vintages, including the Santedame Chianti Classico 2007 (#523076), the Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 (#353201) and the Brunello ‘Greppone Mazzi’ (#926402).

Fèlsina
Located on the ancient pilgrimage route from Rome to Jerusalem, the first references to the Fèlsina farm estate date back to the 12^th century. The property was purchased by the Poggiale family in 1966 and includes a number of farm buildings and 2 deconsecrated chapels that date from the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The site is on the border of the Chianti Classico and the ColliSenesi, offering 2 very different soil types. The family has also purchased an estate at Castello di Farnetella near Sinalunga, from which was produced the wine ‘Lucilla’ (#19033) which was released in the LCBO Vintages in November of last year and is still available in Ottawa. The family is currently working with the LCBO to introduce both Fèlsina and Castello di Farnetella wines to Ontario.

The Fèlsina Chianti Classico is aged 10 months in large Slavonion botti which were custom made to fit between the arches of one of the decommissioned chapels. They are sealed with the glass ‘tapo colamatore’ (meaning refilling cork) ordered from Conegliana Veneto, the best-known producer of this device. The Riserva  is aged 14-16 months in French oak barrique, then 10 months in bottle. Also produced are two Supertuscans; Fontallora, 100% Sangiovese from fruit harvested from two vineyards, one in Chianti Classico, the other in the Colli Senesi, and the Maestro Raro, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A blend of unoaked Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and an oaked Chardonnay are also available. Fèlsina also produces Vin Santo, aged  7 years in small oaks barrels sealed with wax, similar to the barrels used for producing  balsamic vinegar. The 45-acre estate includes approximately 5000 olive trees, resulting in production of a traditional blend olive oil, as well as single-varietal oils.

We had the opportunity to try 2 wines from Castello di Farnetella, a crisp, fruity perfumed Sauvignon Blanc that brightens the palate with a fresh tart finish, and the 2006 Granoni (a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), an approachable medium-bodied wine with bold fruit, firm tannins  and smooth finish of spice and toast.

Of the Fèlsina wines, we tasted the 2008 Chianti Classico (100% Sangiovese) , a lively well-balanced wine with ripe tannins and fresh berry fruit; the 2007 single vineyard Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Rància’ (100% Sangiovese), richly aromatic, medium-full bodied, elegant and balanced with great depth of berry flavour and a lasting finish; and the 2004 and the 2007 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese). The Fontalloro takes advantage of the differing soil profiles of the Chianti Classico—stony and limestone based—and the Colli Senesi—clay loam with a high mineral content—to create a unique wine. In the case of the 2004, well-integrated, velvety in texture, fine acidity, ripe plum and cherry, while the 2007 displayed more earthiness, red berry fruit, fresh acidity and youthful tannins on the long finish. This is a wine is structured to aged 10-15 years.

Castello di Fonterutoli
A drive up the Chiantigiana to Fonterutoli provides a true example of how tradition and technology are seamlessly integrated to produce outstanding wines.

The property has been in the possession of the Marchese Mazzei’s family since 1435. It comprises 600 hectares, of which 114 are under vine, and includes the small hamlet of Fonterutoli itself, where most of the vineyard employees live.  The town is known for its spring, whose water was historically transported via aquaduct to Sienna, where it provided drinking water for the city dwellers.

Most of the vineyards are oriented south/southwest, but vary in elevation from just over 200m to just under 500m, and have different inclination, exposure and soil types. Hence, each hectare is treated as a separate parcel and is individually hand harvested, fermented separately in stainless and aged separately in barrels of Hungarian, French or American oak to preserve the unique character of the grapes. The wines from these parcels are then blended to create Fonterutoli’s Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva.  Their Supertuscan, Siepi, is a single-vineyard blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, also grown on the estate. In addition, the family has purchased a property in the Maremma, Tenuta Belguardo, which offers a flatter site with soils with greater minerality, as well as one in Siciliy,  Zisola.

The family practices sustainable agriculture, and is in process of converting one of its vineyards to organic culture. The new winery, which moved into full production in 2006, is an ingenious horseshoe design created by famed Italian architect Agnese Mazzei. The large central courtyard has about one dozen covered disks which, at harvest, are opened to reveal steel pipes which guide the grapes directly through destemmers to the steel fermenters below. After fermentation, the wine flows through a gravity-fed system to the barrel cellar and into barrique. The barrel cellar, holding about 3000 barrels, is 2 levels below ground and has a dramatic ‘open’ wall which is essentially the limestone bedrock itself, with the Fonterutoli spring gently cascading down its face. In this way, no temperature control is required in the cellar, which maintains itself at an average temperature of 14C and average humidity of 80%. The estate produces approximately 1.3 million bottles per year, of which about 380,000 are Chianti Classico.

The complex, elegant, beautifully balanced 2005Siepi (#740019) is the only wine of Fonterutoli which has found its way to LCBO Vintages. A small number of bottles are still available. However, we would recommend that you keep your eyes open for the winery’s other products, such as the Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2005 (90% Sangiovese, with small amounts of Colorino, Malvasia Nera and Merlot)—well balanced with a smooth texture, lovely ripe fruit and a lengthy finish with some attractive cocoa notes; the Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 (90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvginon)—opaque, intensely aromatic and complex, weighty on the palate and long on the finish. From the Tenuta Belguarda, we tasted the Bronzone Morellino di Scansano 2007 (100% Sangiovese)—medium bodied and fruity with a fresh texture and bright acidity; and the Belguardo Supertuscan 2006 (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc)—a dry, medium-full bodied meaty wine with depth of fruit and a firm tannic presence, finishing with a refreshing aromatic Rosé produced from a combination of Sangiovese and Syrah.

Castello di Volpaia
Strategtically situated up a tortuous road high in Chianti Classico, Volpaia was built in the 11^th and 12^th centuries as a fortification on the oft-contested border between Siena and Florence.  Giovanna Stianti’s father purchased 900 acres around the small hamlet, transferring the property to her in the early 1970s. Giovanna developed 100 acres into vineyard, where Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and the local varietal Marmolo are grown to produce both Chianti Classico and 2 Supertuscans, as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for a tasty white blend and Trebbiano and Malvasia for Vin Santo. The property also includes 30 acres of olive orchards, with extra-virgin olive oil produced using a traditional granite mill.

Volpaia is a national historic site and as such is subject to stringent building regulations. The Stianti family has created ingenious methods to ensure a modern winemaking process while maintaining the unique historical character of the hamlet. There are 3 historic churches in the village, only one of which is still functional. Under this church is a barrel cellar where the Supertuscans, Coltasala and Balifico are aged in l’Allier oak barrique. The space under the two remaining churches also houses fermentation tanks and a barrel cellar. The stainless steel fermentation tanks under one cellar were placed there by crane, as no modifications are allowed to the buildings; hence the only way to renovate was to remove and replace fermenters through the roof. Similarly, the 3000-litre botti of Slavonian oak used for aging the Chianti Classico and Riserva wines had to be disassembled to be moved to the renovated barrel cellar and reassembled onsite. The wine moves from the fermentation tanks to the barrel cellar through an underground stainless steel ‘wine duct’ (like an aquaduct) so that no piping is visible. About 35 people live in Volpaia, most working for the Castello di Volpaia winery.

We tasted 4 wines, a white blend, two Chianti Classico wines and the Supertuscan Balifico. The 2009 Bianco di Volpaia is an equal blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, stainless-steel fermented, a dry fresh fruity wine with a silky texture and lovely flavours of lemon pie and orchard fruit. The Volpaia Chianti Classico2008 is primarily Sangiovese, with a small amount of Merlot and Syrah, dry, medium-bodied and approachable, with ripe tannins and a fresh finish. The Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva from the heralded 2006 vintage is 100% Sangiovese, aged 2 years in botti, complex, medium-full bodied, lengthy and dry on the finish. Volpaia’s 2006 Balifico is a single-vineyard blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in French oak. Dry, robust and full bodied, this wine has loads of fruit and muscle and is a candidate for lengthy aging. Currently the only wine available through the LCBO is what was described to us as a basic wine, the Compagnia di Volpaia ‘Citto’ 2008 (#134817).

I hope you enjoy this glimpse of the wines of Tuscany, and that we may have the opportunity to savour more of these wines in Ontario.

I couldn’t resist yet another week in the Okanagan this year, with a day trip to the Similkameen. 

October is a lovely time of year to visit the area, with the brilliant autumn colors of the vines and fruit trees balanced by the subtle tones of the desert sage and antelope brush.  We stayed at the Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa, which is co-located with the Nk’Mip Winery, the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre and the Sonora Dunes Golf Course on a bench of Anarchist Mountain, just above Lake Osoyoos.  The resort provides a beautiful view of the vineyards of the southern Okanagan, stretching north toward the Golden Mile and the Black Sage Bench, and south to the Washington state border.  This area provides an ideal climate for red vinifera grapes, but is also home to the northern tip of the Sonoran desert as well as many endangered species.  We attended a very interesting presentation at the Desert Cultural Centre, where an interpreter discussed the research they are conducting to help preserve the endangered local snake species.  And, discussions with winery owners demonstrate their awareness of and sensitivity to the unique environment.

Once settled in, it was time to visit a few of the smaller, independently owned wineries in the Okanagan.  And a day trip to the Similkameen introduced us to some new and promising winemakers. 

After hearing Jack Fraser speak with great passion at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival about his winery in Summerland, Thornhaven Estates, a visit was in order.  I’d only had a chance to sample his Gewurtz, after all!  When we arrived, we were greeted by Jan, Jack and their daughter Courtney.  Jason, their son the winemaker, was in town on an errand.  The road to Thornhaven is a long and winding one, up the mountain overlooking Lake Okanagan, but it’s well worth it, for the view and for the great wines.  Jack’s cousin brought the property as a fruit farm in the early 1990s, began planting vines in 1996, and opened the winery in 1999.  The winery is a lovely southwestern-style adobe structure with an inviting walled terrace – given slightly warmer weather, we would have been sipping our wine there.   

After returning to Canada in 2000 from a series of expatriate assignments, Jack became involved in the vineyard and eventually took over Thornhaven from his cousin in 2005.  From there, the entire family became involved.  Jason, who has a great natural palate, was trained by Jack’s cousin and works with a consulting winemaker.  Jack is the resident viticulturalist, Jan handles all general management issues, and Courtney manages the wine shop.  A true family affair!

The Frasers produce a range of wines, including a fresh Pinot Gris, a wonderfully aromatic Gewurtztraminer, a fruity Pinot Meunier, a burgundian-style Pinot Noir, a Syrah (their first vintage) and a Merlot.  They also have two blends, Trinity, which includes a unique combination of Merlot, Gamay and Pinot Noir and Evolution, a typical Meritage blend.  We finished the tasting with two unique lip smacking late harvest wines, Nectar del Sol whic is made from Riesling, Viognier and Muscat, and Diosa, produced from Chardonnay fermented in barriques for 3 months.

With vineyards high on the slopes above the Okanagan, all grapes are hand harvested.  Jack credits two factors for the unique characteristics of his wines:  the soils, which are volcanic in origin hence packed with minerals, and the ‘lake effect’ of warm air moving up the slopes from the lake in the morning, then cooler air rolling back down in the evening.

The family was in great spirits as we left, as they had just learned they are among the 10 wineries selected as finalists for B.C. winery of the year award.

We also stopped to visit with Stefanie and Bernd Schales at 8^th Generation Vineyard.  With a long winemaking pedigree in Germany, both Stefanie and Bernd wanted to establish their own winery.  After stints in South Africa and New Zealand, they found their dream on this property between Penticton and Summerland.  Not without resistance from the family!!  Stefanie’s father was convinced that the location would be too cold and that they would lose their vines.  When he finally visited a couple of years ago, the summer heat and fine soils convinced him they had potentially better growing conditions than in Germany. 

8^th Generation has vineyards in Summerland, where they grow all their Pinot Noir, and near Okanagan Falls, where the whites are grown.  They feel that the local terroir produces rounder smoother more earthy Pinot Noir, while the sandy soils in Okanagan Falls retain the fresh flavors of the whites.  Their goal is to produce their grapes using organic techniques, although they use a minor amount of chemicals for weed control.

Their small production of 2800 cases includes a fresh fruity Pinot Gris, a classic German-style Riesling with great minerality, a citrusy dry Riesling as well as a rich sweet off-dry Riesling.  The reds include Pinot Noir, a Merlot aged 12 months in barrel, and a Syrah which had a palate redolent of spicy fruit, pepper and herbal notes.  What a wonderful selection!

If you are visiting the Summerland area, don’t miss tasting Thornhaven and 8^th Generation wines.

Other exciting initiatives in the southern Okanagan include the complete renovation of Hester Creek Winery and the establishment of Cassini Cellars by Adrian Capeneata.

With substantial investment by the owner and the design skills of Rob Summers, the winemaker at Hester Creek, the winery now has a state-of-the-art cellar and winemaking facility to handle the grapes from its 85 acres on the Golden Mile.  Rob placed particular emphasis on the improved safety in the facility, the quality of the steel tanks newly installed, and the extensive barrel vault.  The new tasting facility, built with a dramatic cathedral ceiling and a fabulous view over the vineyards, includes a tasting bar, a tasteful shop stocked with unique items, a private dining room and a fully equipped kitchen.  This facility was built largely into the mountain to take advantage of the thermal mass and uses geothermal systems for heating and cooling.  It joins the lovely guest villas located just above the winery.  And the wines, of course, are wonderful.

Cassini Cellars is located just off Highway 97 between Oliver and Osoyoos in a ochre-colored adobe-style builing that blends beautifully with the desert landscape. From a winemaking family in Roumania,  Adrian was involved with the construction industry for many years.  However,  he and his wife fell in love with the Okanagan on a visit there, so he decided to return to his roots.  He purchased a local lavender farm in 2006 (all the plants were sold to eager buyers), planted mainly red varietals, with a few whites, and began construction, largely on his own, of the new winery.  When I visited this fall, the winery had just recently opened and Adrian was still hard at work in the winemaking facilities.   Working with consulting winemaker Phil Soo, he produced a Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 which won a silver medal at Intervin.  His Viognier had lush tropical fruit aromas, while the Gewurtz was dry and elegant.  I’m sure we’ll hear more about his wines.

Bill Eggert of Fairview Cellars was also a welcoming host at his rustic winery tucked away behind the Fairview golf course west of Oliver.  I had tasted his Cabernet Franc at the Vancouver Playhouse Winefest, only to discover upon arrival that it is sold out!  However, Bill was more than willing to share his other big reds, including Mad Cap Red–a lush blend of predominantly Merlot with the Cabernets–the BOS, made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Sam Baptiste, a legend in Okanagan viticulture, as well as his premium blend, the Bear, and a Cabernet Sauvignon.  Go to his website and, I’m sorry to say, all the wines are sold out.  While his reds are legendary, Bill offered a unique treat – a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with intense characteristic aromas, a silky citrusy palate and a lingering finish.  Wow – one bottle wasn’t enough!

After being dazzled by the great wines of the Okanagan, we took a day trip to the Similkameen Valley to visit with some of the new winemakers helping to build that unique region’s reputation.  The newly established Similkameen Wineries Association has brought a small number of producers together to promote their terroir and unique wines.  Available on their website is a terrific little map that explains how to get to the valley, and then clearly illustrates where each winery is located – a recommended item should your travels take you there – and they should!

We visited three relatively new wineries, including Robin Ridge Winery, EauVivre Winery & Vineyards, and Cerelia Vineyards and Estate Winery.

At Robin Ridge, Tim Cottrill and his wife purchased their property in 1996 and have been growing grapes since then, selling to local wineries.  In 2006, after training with winemaker and owner of Herder Estates, Lawrence Herder, Tim produced his first vintage and opened his own winery.  His 10 acres were planted in 1997 and include Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Merlot.  Thirty percent of the fruit for his 07 Chardonnay was aged in barrel, creating an aromatic rounded wine with a great fruit flavors and refreshing acidity.  The Pinot Noir, aged in French oak offers rich ripe berries, soft tannins and a spicy finish.  The 06 Merlot, which includes a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, was barrel-aged in French and American oak.  It has a lush nose of plums, ripe berries, vanilla and sweet spices.  Well-structured, it has a long finish with hints of cocoa and espresso.

Dale Wright and his wife Jeri are originally from Saskatechewan, but a visit to their daughter and their enjoyment of south Okanagan wines soon had them dreaming of a move.  When the property in the Similkameen became available, they didn’t hesitate.  They opened EauVivre just this August, and Dale introduced us to the wines from his first vintage.  This included a toasty Chardonnay, aged in 1 and 2 year old barrels for 14 months, his intensely floral Gewurztraminer, a berry-rich Pinot Noir with fine tannins, and a wonderfully expressive Cabernet Franc, redolent of dark summer fruits, cocoa, vanilla and spices – get it if you can!

Our last stop in the Similkameen was at Cerelia Vineyards & Estate Winery, where we met Megan Mutch, her husband Corey, and their children.  This venture is another family affair.  While Megan and Corey were living in Grand Prairie, his parents decided to convert their fruit farm to vines.  Would the kids come home to help out?  Of course, since Corey is an orchardist at heart, and Megan had a dream of becoming a winemaker.  They moved back and Megan began taking winemaking courses in Penticton and working with John Weber at Orofino while Corey worked with his family planting the vines.  The couple has just opened a small tasting room within the large farmhouse family farmhouse, where they offered us samples of their first vintage steel-fermented Pinot Gris and Chardonnay – only about 200 cases of these wines were produced.  But they have great plans – as evidenced by the winery and barrel cellars still under construction in the farmyard.  And Megan, working with John Weber of Orofino as her mentor, has produced some lovely white wines.   The Pinot Gris is fresh and crisp with ripe tree fruit flavors and a great balance of fruit and acidity on the finish.   The Chardonnay, unoaked but left on the lies, has an aromatic nose of pear with a hint of citrus, a smooth mid palate and a lovely fresh finish.  We also barrel sampled her 08 and 09 Merlot – very promising.  Watch for more from this aspiring young winemaker and her family.  There are great plans, including producing scrumptious wine jellies (our sample was delicious), and possibly establishing a B&B.

 We headed back to our suite at the Spirit Ridge reminding ourselves that we never manage to visit all the wineries we’d like to, as every year the scene changes.  Wineries expand, new ones open, winemakers move on and new varietals or blends are vinified.  It’s what makes this Canadian wine region so exciting, and keeps us coming back for more.

 If you’re thinking of taking a trip to the area, don’t hesitate to contact me.  I’d enjoy helping you plan your winery visits.  If not, consider visiting the LCBO Vintages Online Shop (search on Region), where there is currently a small but worthwhile selection of Okanagan wines from Road 13, Sandhill, and Sumac Ridge.

 Cheers!
Susan

I couldn’t resist yet another week in the Okanagan this year, with a day trip to the Similkameen. 

October is a lovely time of year to visit the area, with the brilliant autumn colors of the vines and fruit trees balanced by the subtle tones of the desert sage and antelope brush.  We stayed at the Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa, which is co-located with the Nk’Mip Winery, the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre and the Sonora Dunes Golf Course on a bench of Anarchist Mountain, just above Lake Osoyoos.  The resort provides a beautiful view of the vineyards of the southern Okanagan, stretching north toward the Golden Mile and the Black Sage Bench, and south to the Washington state border.  This area provides an ideal climate for red vinifera grapes, but is also home to the northern tip of the Sonoran desert as well as many endangered species.  We attended a very interesting presentation at the Desert Cultural Centre, where an interpreter discussed the research they are conducting to help preserve the endangered local snake species.  And, discussions with winery owners demonstrate their awareness of and sensitivity to the unique environment.

Once settled in, it was time to visit a few of the smaller, independently owned wineries in the Okanagan.  And a day trip to the Similkameen introduced us to some new and promising winemakers. 

After hearing Jack Fraser speak with great passion at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival about his winery in Summerland, Thornhaven Estates, a visit was in order.  I’d only had a chance to sample his Gewurtz, after all!  When we arrived, we were greeted by Jan, Jack and their daughter Courtney.  Jason, their son the winemaker, was in town on an errand.  The road to Thornhaven is a long and winding one, up the mountain overlooking Lake Okanagan, but it’s well worth it, for the view and for the great wines.  Jack’s cousin brought the property as a fruit farm in the early 1990s, began planting vines in 1996, and opened the winery in 1999.  The winery is a lovely southwestern-style adobe structure with an inviting walled terrace – given slightly warmer weather, we would have been sipping our wine there.   

After returning to Canada in 2000 from a series of expatriate assignments, Jack became involved in the vineyard and eventually took over Thornhaven from his cousin in 2005.  From there, the entire family became involved.  Jason, who has a great natural palate, was trained by Jack’s cousin and works with a consulting winemaker.  Jack is the resident viticulturalist, Jan handles all general management issues, and Courtney manages the wine shop.  A true family affair!

The Frasers produce a range of wines, including a fresh Pinot Gris, a wonderfully aromatic Gewurtztraminer, a fruity Pinot Meunier, a burgundian-style Pinot Noir, a Syrah (their first vintage) and a Merlot.  They also have two blends, Trinity, which includes a unique combination of Merlot, Gamay and Pinot Noir and Evolution, a typical Meritage blend.  We finished the tasting with two unique lip smacking late harvest wines, Nectar del Sol whic is made from Riesling, Viognier and Muscat, and Diosa, produced from Chardonnay fermented in barriques for 3 months.

With vineyards high on the slopes above the Okanagan, all grapes are hand harvested.  Jack credits two factors for the unique characteristics of his wines:  the soils, which are volcanic in origin hence packed with minerals, and the ‘lake effect’ of warm air moving up the slopes from the lake in the morning, then cooler air rolling back down in the evening.

The family was in great spirits as we left, as they had just learned they are among the 10 wineries selected as finalists for B.C. winery of the year award.

We also stopped to visit with Stefanie and Bernd Schales at 8^th Generation Vineyard.  With a long winemaking pedigree in Germany, both Stefanie and Bernd wanted to establish their own winery.  After stints in South Africa and New Zealand, they found their dream on this property between Penticton and Summerland.  Not without resistance from the family!!  Stefanie’s father was convinced that the location would be too cold and that they would lose their vines.  When he finally visited a couple of years ago, the summer heat and fine soils convinced him they had potentially better growing conditions than in Germany. 

8^th Generation has vineyards in Summerland, where they grow all their Pinot Noir, and near Okanagan Falls, where the whites are grown.  They feel that the local terroir produces rounder smoother more earthy Pinot Noir, while the sandy soils in Okanagan Falls retain the fresh flavors of the whites.  Their goal is to produce their grapes using organic techniques, although they use a minor amount of chemicals for weed control.

Their small production of 2800 cases includes a fresh fruity Pinot Gris, a classic German-style Riesling with great minerality, a citrusy dry Riesling as well as a rich sweet off-dry Riesling.  The reds include Pinot Noir, a Merlot aged 12 months in barrel, and a Syrah which had a palate redolent of spicy fruit, pepper and herbal notes.  What a wonderful selection!

If you are visiting the Summerland area, don’t miss tasting Thornhaven and 8^th Generation wines.

Other exciting initiatives in the southern Okanagan include the complete renovation of Hester Creek Winery and the establishment of Cassini Cellars by Adrian Capeneata.

With substantial investment by the owner and the design skills of Rob Summers, the winemaker at Hester Creek, the winery now has a state-of-the-art cellar and winemaking facility to handle the grapes from its 85 acres on the Golden Mile.  Rob placed particular emphasis on the improved safety in the facility, the quality of the steel tanks newly installed, and the extensive barrel vault.  The new tasting facility, built with a dramatic cathedral ceiling and a fabulous view over the vineyards, includes a tasting bar, a tasteful shop stocked with unique items, a private dining room and a fully equipped kitchen.  This facility was built largely into the mountain to take advantage of the thermal mass and uses geothermal systems for heating and cooling.  It joins the lovely guest villas located just above the winery.  And the wines, of course, are wonderful.

Cassini Cellars is located just off Highway 97 between Oliver and Osoyoos in a ochre-colored adobe-style builing that blends beautifully with the desert landscape. From a winemaking family in Roumania,  Adrian was involved with the construction industry for many years.  However,  he and his wife fell in love with the Okanagan on a visit there, so he decided to return to his roots.  He purchased a local lavender farm in 2006 (all the plants were sold to eager buyers), planted mainly red varietals, with a few whites, and began construction, largely on his own, of the new winery.  When I visited this fall, the winery had just recently opened and Adrian was still hard at work in the winemaking facilities.   Working with consulting winemaker Phil Soo, he produced a Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 which won a silver medal at Intervin.  His Viognier had lush tropical fruit aromas, while the Gewurtz was dry and elegant.  I’m sure we’ll hear more about his wines.

Bill Eggert of Fairview Cellars was also a welcoming host at his rustic winery tucked away behind the Fairview golf course west of Oliver.  I had tasted his Cabernet Franc at the Vancouver Playhouse Winefest, only to discover upon arrival that it is sold out!  However, Bill was more than willing to share his other big reds, including Mad Cap Red–a lush blend of predominantly Merlot with the Cabernets–the BOS, made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Sam Baptiste, a legend in Okanagan viticulture, as well as his premium blend, the Bear, and a Cabernet Sauvignon.  Go to his website and, I’m sorry to say, all the wines are sold out.  While his reds are legendary, Bill offered a unique treat – a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with intense characteristic aromas, a silky citrusy palate and a lingering finish.  Wow – one bottle wasn’t enough!

After being dazzled by the great wines of the Okanagan, we took a day trip to the Similkameen Valley to visit with some of the new winemakers helping to build that unique region’s reputation.  The newly established Similkameen Wineries Association has brought a small number of producers together to promote their terroir and unique wines.  Available on their website is a terrific little map that explains how to get to the valley, and then clearly illustrates where each winery is located – a recommended item should your travels take you there – and they should!

We visited three relatively new wineries, including Robin Ridge Winery, EauVivre Winery & Vineyards, and Cerelia Vineyards and Estate Winery.

At Robin Ridge, Tim Cottrill and his wife purchased their property in 1996 and have been growing grapes since then, selling to local wineries.  In 2006, after training with winemaker and owner of Herder Estates, Lawrence Herder, Tim produced his first vintage and opened his own winery.  His 10 acres were planted in 1997 and include Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Merlot.  Thirty percent of the fruit for his 07 Chardonnay was aged in barrel, creating an aromatic rounded wine with a great fruit flavors and refreshing acidity.  The Pinot Noir, aged in French oak offers rich ripe berries, soft tannins and a spicy finish.  The 06 Merlot, which includes a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, was barrel-aged in French and American oak.  It has a lush nose of plums, ripe berries, vanilla and sweet spices.  Well-structured, it has a long finish with hints of cocoa and espresso.

Dale Wright and his wife Jeri are originally from Saskatechewan, but a visit to their daughter and their enjoyment of south Okanagan wines soon had them dreaming of a move.  When the property in the Similkameen became available, they didn’t hesitate.  They opened EauVivre just this August, and Dale introduced us to the wines from his first vintage.  This included a toasty Chardonnay, aged in 1 and 2 year old barrels for 14 months, his intensely floral Gewurztraminer, a berry-rich Pinot Noir with fine tannins, and a wonderfully expressive Cabernet Franc, redolent of dark summer fruits, cocoa, vanilla and spices – get it if you can!

Our last stop in the Similkameen was at Cerelia Vineyards & Estate Winery, where we met Megan Mutch, her husband Corey, and their children.  This venture is another family affair.  While Megan and Corey were living in Grand Prairie, his parents decided to convert their fruit farm to vines.  Would the kids come home to help out?  Of course, since Corey is an orchardist at heart, and Megan had a dream of becoming a winemaker.  They moved back and Megan began taking winemaking courses in Penticton and working with John Weber at Orofino while Corey worked with his family planting the vines.  The couple has just opened a small tasting room within the large farmhouse family farmhouse, where they offered us samples of their first vintage steel-fermented Pinot Gris and Chardonnay – only about 200 cases of these wines were produced.  But they have great plans – as evidenced by the winery and barrel cellars still under construction in the farmyard.  And Megan, working with John Weber of Orofino as her mentor, has produced some lovely white wines.   The Pinot Gris is fresh and crisp with ripe tree fruit flavors and a great balance of fruit and acidity on the finish.   The Chardonnay, unoaked but left on the lies, has an aromatic nose of pear with a hint of citrus, a smooth mid palate and a lovely fresh finish.  We also barrel sampled her 08 and 09 Merlot – very promising.  Watch for more from this aspiring young winemaker and her family.  There are great plans, including producing scrumptious wine jellies (our sample was delicious), and possibly establishing a B&B.

 We headed back to our suite at the Spirit Ridge reminding ourselves that we never manage to visit all the wineries we’d like to, as every year the scene changes.  Wineries expand, new ones open, winemakers move on and new varietals or blends are vinified.  It’s what makes this Canadian wine region so exciting, and keeps us coming back for more.

 If you’re thinking of taking a trip to the area, don’t hesitate to contact me.  I’d enjoy helping you plan your winery visits.  If not, consider visiting the LCBO Vintages Online Shop (search on Region), where there is currently a small but worthwhile selection of Okanagan wines from Road 13, Sandhill, and Sumac Ridge.

 Cheers!
Susan

A winemaker was recently asked who was drinking rosé and he replied “mostly women and smart men.”

As the curtain closed on Canada’s 2010 Winter Olympic and Paralymic Games, Canada’s largest wine festival, the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival opened up last month, with the emphasis on wines from New Zealand and Argentina as well as shining the spotlight on rosé wines.  There were 45+ wines from different countries, with varying styles showing a kaleidoscope of colour from copper to cranberry. As that could make yet another wine wheel, the genre was indicative enough to show that rosé is more than wines that are “just pink with tastes of strawberries” (my reaction to this overused comment: argg!).

Although rosé has long been associated with being born in the south of France and made largely from Grenache grapes, in the past year rosé it was reported that consumption in France has increased by 22%. Currently, every wine producing country now produces their own version. For every red grape varietal, a rosé is being made. I was amazed by the quantity and quality of many rosé’s at the Festival. Winemakers from Germany, Argentina, Spain, France, Canada, New Zealand, the U.S.A, Chile and Australia spoke of and promoted their respective rosés from how it was made, to the body of the wine and even to the time of day to drink it! 

When winemakers were asked when to serve their rosé, responses varied from breakfast to fore-noon, to afternoon to late evening; concluding that rosé was an any time of day refreshment and not just for the summer barbeque or picnic. Most agreed that rosé should be served just below room temperature as opposed to the boney cold which many, including myself are guilty.

On the pairing side with food, rosé frequently mates with the uninventive salmon along with an assortment of other seafoods that tend to put the mind in neutral, (depending of course on preparation). However, I experienced brilliant innovative pairings such as shredded lamb over polenta, and an orzo pasta with beets and greens, topped with a pink cotton candy – Executive Chef & Sommelier Tony Lawrence deserves kudos for this innovation – that complimented a myriad of dark cranberry coloured rosé’s especially those made from the Merlot, Pinot Noir and Shiraz grapes.

This year more noticeably than others, all you have to do is walk into the LCBO to be overwhelmed with the variety of rosé wines. Although being a rosé lover, I have no need of a sales pitch to try yet another delicious dry rosé wine. But to say that rosé has now found its way into the international genre of the serious wine world is an understatement. We can no longer assume that if it’s cranberry or pink, that it is sweet and without the complexity of a full bodied wine. 

The time has come for us to stop looking suspiciously at these vibrant, fresh coloured wines since it is obvious we can no longer judge a rosé by its cover and that’s not looking at the subject through rosey rim glasses. 

Some Rosé wines that I recommend to try this summer:

de Venoge Brut Pink Champagne

M. Chapoutier Tavel 2008

Bastianich Rosato 2008

Santé,  Cheers,  Cin cin, Salute !

Julie Stock

Accredited Sommelier & newest member of the Savvy Team

You are invited!

Join Julie & the Savvy Team of Sommeliers at Clink & Drink Pink – a Rosé wine tasting on Wednesday July 14th. Click for more details about this fun wine & food event

We look forward to having you join us!

Blogger Kim Bannister of WeeWelcome interviewed our Savvy Sommelier – Debbie Trenholm – about her experience picking frozen grapes during the icewine harvest in Niagara at Malivoire Winery.

 Inside Icewine

The cold weather brings one tasty treat – Icewine. To learn more about this delicious drink, I talked with wine expert Debbie Trenholm of Savvy Company.

How does Icewine differ from other wines?
Throughout the growing season, winemakers decide which grapes to leave on the vines long after the regular harvest is complete and wait for Mother Nature to turn them into gold – icewine grapes that is. The magic number is the air needs to hit -8 degrees Celsius or colder. At this point, the frenzy begins! The frozen grapes can be picked (by law it must reach -8 degrees in order to be classified as an Icewine). Some wineries leave the grapes on longer (such as -10 degrees). The trick with Icewine is that winemakers never know when during the winter -8 degrees will come.

This year -8 degrees came to Niagara in early January.  Winemakers also need a long period of time at that cold temperature to pick (some wineries have many acres of vineyards with frozen grapes) and crush the grapes.

In 2001 I was called on to pick in an Icewine harvest. While staying in Niagara doing some consulting work, I received a phone call at 11:30 one night from Ann Sperling – Winemaker at the time at Malivoire. What an opportunity!  I bundled up and headed out!

When you think of a vineyard often thoughts of lush green comes to mind. But in January, the reality is that many grapes had fallen off (these are no good), and the bare dead vines set against the stark whiteness of the snow was very dramatic. Shadows of people were cast from the head lamps of the tractor going up and down the rows of grapes being picked by people with ski gloves.

The grapes look like almost like raisins – brown & shrivelled. Mother Nature has attacked them – hitting them several times by frost. I had to snap the bunches off the vine (remember with ski gloves) and they were hard as marbels. Clunk they go into my bucket.

The winemaker’s job is to press them – they press these little pellets and patiently wait until the first juice comes out. The juice looks like apple juice concentrate that you get at the grocery story  - as  thick and the same caramel colour.

Once the grapes are crushed outdoors (they too have to maintain -8 degrees Celsius during this part of the winemaking process) they can bring the juice into the cellar to start to ferment it. As you can imagine, the juice in each grape is highly concentrated because the water content of the grapes is frozen. What is extracted from the grapes is pure nectar – this is why Icewine is deliciously sweet.

For my Icewine harvest experience, the team of pickers (all family & friends) were out for about 6 hours, until sunrise. We had to stop because the sun was rising and the temperature began to rise above the magic number -8C.

What foods go well with Icewine?
When I serve Icewine I follow a simple rule of thumb – make sure that the food is not sweeter than the Icewine – it will make your Icewine seem sweeter. Good accompaniments include dark chocolate, roasted nuts, and fresh fruit. Icewine can be served before or after dinner or as a dessert all on its own.

How much does a bottle of Icewine cost, on average?
Because of all that work that goes into making a bottle, and because, like maple syrup, it takes a lot of grapes to make one bottle – most Icewine cost between $45 and $85. I know of some Icewines that have a price tag of $1000 plus!

An interesting note: at the recent Nobel Peace Prize dinner President Obama was served an Icewine by Niagara winery Inniskillin (click here for more info). This same wine was recently featured in Oprah Magazine.

Why is the Icewine experience one to try?
People are really starting to recognize the beauty of this type of wine. Bottom line, it is uniquely Canadian. There is so much love and care that goes into making the wine that it is magical! Everything has to come together to make this type of wine: -8 degrees and a team of patient pickers.

If someone wanted a good ice wine to start with, can you suggest a few types/brands?
In Niagara, winemakers started with Vidal as the main grape variety to create Icewine. it is hardy grape to grow with its thick skin, so it weathers well while waiting for the magic -8 degrees. But with the curiousity and experimentation of many winemakers, you can get almost any grape variety in this sweet rendition. I have enjoyed icewines made with Chardonnay and Reisling as well as red icewines made with Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes. It is neat to see how the same grape can taste so different. There are also sparkling Icewines.

My favourite sparkling wine is made by Pillitteri Estates Winery.  Be sure to try the classic Inniskillin Vidal Icewine VQA, served at the Nobel Peace Prize dinner.  And if you want to indulge in a red Icewine, try Malivoire’s Cabernet Franc Icewine VQA ….and those are just for starters! 

An event not to be missed!  Check out the Niagara Icewine Festival on now until January 31st. A delicious getaway with tastings and winemakers dinners.

All of us at Savvy Company can’t wait to share our wine discoveries with you this year. 

Our calendars are filling up with wine and food events, our wine of the month club – Savvy Selections – is growing in popularity, and we have booked trips to wine regions around the world. 

And for those of you who are eager to learn more about wine with one of our Sommeliers, why not enrol in a Savvy U class to learn the fun-damentals of wine appreciation? Homework never tasted this good!

Here’s to a delicious 2010 with a glass of great wine in hand & one of our Sommeliers by your side.

Cheers!
Debbie & the Savvy Team

There is a mesmerizing abundance of wine and food books that you can wrap and put under the tree.  Here are some of our Savvy Sommeliers’ favorites:

History of Wine Words – An Intoxicating Dictionary of Etymology & Word Histories from Glass & Bottle  
by Charles Hodgson

$20 at Amazon

Charles is an Ottawa based writer and long time Savvy Selections wine-of-the-month club subscriber.  As he was researching the meanings and history of wine terms and words he asked our Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm to be part of the editing team.  This is a neat book loaded with interesting tidbits about the origin of wine words.

Cellar Book – How to Design, Build, Stock and Manage Your Wine Cellar Wherever You Live
by Tony Aspler
$20 at Chapters

As Tony puts it, this book provides practical guidance for anyone who wants to lay down wines that will be ready to open for a mid-week dinner, for a spontaneous celebration or for your children’s future enjoyment. 

The definitive Guide to Canadian Artisanal and Fine Cheese
by Gurth Pretty

$20 at Chapters

Chef Gurth Pretty has compiled the most comprehensive guide to Canadian cheeses ever published. On each page you are introduced to the cheesemakers, stories about their cheeses, and then there are 30 delicious recipes developed by Gurth and the cheesemakers to try your hand at. This book is always open in the kitchen of our Savvy Cheese Sommelier Vanessa Simmons

Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass

By Natalie MacLean

$10 at Chapters

“Simply intoxicating!”, says Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm. Debbie has read this book twice – the first time was the manuscript as she devoured & reviewed each page for Natalie, then again once the book was published. There are countless wine books, some historic, some novels, some technical and some instructional. Yet, in Red, White & Drunk All Over, Natalie MacLean shares her discovery and experiences of the different facets of wine with an enlightening twist.  Look for Debbie’s quote on page 122!

The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO 2010
by Rod Philips
$19.95 at Chapters

This is the second annual guide to the 500 best-values in the LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario). Rod Philips – Ottawa based writer, wine judge & Ottawa Citizen wine columnist has tasted all the wines currently available in the LCBO and Vintages Essentials collection – a rough job!  He chose the 500 best wines in terms of their quality and price. A handy book to have with you when are overwhelmed with all that is available at the LCBO.

Wine and War: The French, The Nazis, And The Battle For Frances Greatest Treasure

By Don and Petie Kladstrup

$19 at Chapters

“This is a page turner – I was captivated in chapter 1.  A great read for anyone interested in history and wine”, remarks Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm. All about the remarkable untold story of France’s courageous, clever vinters who protected and rescued the country’s most treasured commodity from German plunder during World War II. In 1940, France fell to the Nazis and almost immediately the German army began a campaign of pillaging one of the assets the French hold most dear: their wine.

Anna and Michael Olson Cook at Home: Recipes for Everyday and Every Occasion

By Anna and Michael Olson

$25 at Amazon

A favorite cookbook in Savvy Sommelier Susan Desjardin’s kitchen. When writing the Savvy eZine, Susan often refers to this book to pick a recipe to pair a Savvy Selections wine. She finds that this book is full of practical and humorous advice on cooking and entertaining, with culinary inspirations and handy techniques by Ontario’s premier chefs. 

Matter of Taste: Inspired Seasonal Menus with Wines and Spirits to Match
By Lucie Waverman & James Chatto
$35 at Chapters

Savvy Sommeliers Debbie Trenholm & Susan Desjardins are fans of this book full of recipes and wine pairings. Several of their favorite recipes have been paired with Savvy Selections wines.  Easy-to-follow recipes are paired with James’ witty wine knowledge and explanations on why the matches make sense.

Fresh Canadian Bistro: Top Canadian chefs share their favourite recipes

By Craig Flinn

$18 at Chapters

Author Craig Flinn, chef of Chives Canadian Bistro in Halifax, has persuaded many of Canada”s leading chefs to share some of their best recipes for this collection. “I have just bought it and each page is absolutely delicious!” comments Savvy Sommelier Debbie Trenholm

Other helpful Gift Guides that may inspire some ideas for your wine & food lovers on your shopping list.

Ottawa Citizen 2009 Holiday Gift Guide

Globe and Mail Gift Guide

Ron Eade’s annual Cookbook Guide

Happy Holidays!

The Savvy Team

On a recent weekend visit to Prince Edward County, I had the opportunity to experience some of the great accommodations, food and wine.  I was amazed and impressed how vibrantly this region has grown since my last visit.  

Our visit started with our arrival at the historic Merrill Inn.  Located on a county road leading to the Loyalist route, the Merrill Inn is a historic property which was built in 1878 and is notable for its attractive gingerbread-trimmed gables.  Each of the rooms is beautifully appointed with attractive linens, period antiques and updated fittings.

The aroma of fresh-baked cookies led us toward the reception at the rear of the Inn.  We were greeted by owner and innkeeper Edward Shubert, who was a constant presence throughout our short stay.  After visiting some of the local attractions, we headed back to the Inn for a gourmet dinner prepared by chef Michael Sullivan.  The Inn’s restaurant is located in a cosy room with a view to the courtyard and herb garden.  The chef uses local ingredients wherever possible, and the wine list is replete with County wines.  We enjoyed a range of delightful appetizers (beet and orange salad, and delicious crab cakes), followed by main courses (such as fresh Ontario pickerel or shrimp and scallop saffron risotto) which were a feast for the eyes and the palate.  And the desserts we chose (chocolate pudding and apple tarte tatin) were superb.  Edward, the ever-attentive host, orchestrated the excellent service.

Our overnight stay was quiet and restful.  Breakfast the next morning included a wide variety of fresh baked breads and pastries, fruit, yogurt and cereal, as well as French toast and sausages for those who couldn’t resist one more indulgence.  Amy Shubert kindly provided one of Chef Michael’s recipes that appeared in the June’s Savvy eZine (a mini magazine that all subscribers of Savvy Selections recieve with their wine), featuring Black Prince Winery.

Prince Edward County has a long history of settlement, and of various forms of agriculture.  There is evidence of winemaking as far back as the 1850s, with vineyards now growing on former fruit orchards.  And a tradition of cheesemaking, which includes a number of local cooperatives, is being taken up by newcomers such as Petra and Shawn Cooper, owners of Fifth Town Cheese.  We spent an interesting couple of hours visiting Fifth Town’s dairy and tasting their cheese.

Petra led the tour of the dairy, which was opened less than a year ago, in July 2008.  She is rightfully proud of their Platinum LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) status, and of the wide variety of handmade artisanal cheeses they produce.  She indicated that their ‘green’ certification applies not only to the buildings, but to the cheese-making process, which is very energy intensive, and requires the disposal of significant amounts of waste water.

Eighty percent of the building is made with foodgrade recycled or recycleable materials.  An example is the building shell, constructed of “durisol”  blocks which are made with recycled wood fibre and green cement.  They do not harbour moisture, as the insulation is within the block, and they are fireproof.  Other environmental initiatives on the 20-acre site include a geothermal heat pump which preheats all their wash water, solar panels and a small windmill which generate green power, and a 10,000 litre cistern which captures rainwater.  A constructed wetland acts as a natural processing facility for whey and waste water from the cheese making process.  In addition, they grow hay and alfalfa which are used as feed for the goats and sheep raised by their farm partners.

Petra indicated that their facilities are regularly inspected by CFIA (Canada Food Inspection Agency), but that since their cheeses are handmade, they have little risk of listeria infection as this bacteria tends to grow inside machinery.  Their sophisticated pasteurizing room provides for flash pasteurization of all cheeses for exactly 17 seconds.  Petra indicated that their longer term goal is to make raw milk cheeses as well, but this must wait for suitable milk from their producers.

Their aging caves are constructed of cement covered with mounds of earth.  Geothermal tubes were installed within the raw cement walls to allow some heating in the coldest months of winter.  Otherwise, the caves naturally maintain a temperature range of 12-15 degrees to allow aging and the formation of natural rinds.  High humidity (85-95%) and periodic air changes are also required for natural aging of the cheeses.  Soft ripened cheeses spend 7-14 days in the caves, while hard rinds spend a minimum of 3 months, and up to 9-12 months.

After learning about the cheese making process, we were ready for truck bed tasting with Andrew Laliberte (Cheese Somelier) in the milk receiving area.  We tasted 5 cheeses, from the soft creamy bagel chevre to the 7-month aged Fellowship hard rind cheese.  Each was matched with a complementary wine, such as The Grange of Prince Edward County’s Trumpour’s Mill Pinot Gris VQA  with the Lighthall Tome cheese (one of our purchases!).  Andrew discussed the three sources of the distinticve flavors in cheese:  primary, based on the material you use (in this case goat or sheep milk); secondary, created by the processing method (for instance curd cheese, versus feta-like cheese, versus cheddar); tertiary, the aging process (examples such as soft-ripened cheese or hard rind cheese).  He also expressed his opinion that most cheeses are best matched with white wines, although some of the older, harder cheeses will match with red wines like Pinot Noir.

If you’re a lover of cheddar cheese and you’re in the County, don’t miss a visit to the Black River Cheese Co-operative, which offers a wide range of mild, medium, old and extra old cheddar, as well as flavored cheddars and cheeses from other local producers.  We selected a 6-year old cheddar from among the many types of cheese, as well as some delightful thin currant oatmeal biscuits produced by County Crackers.

Thinking of matching our cheese to a suitable wine, we headed out to a relatively new winery in the County, Sugarbush Vineyards, owned and operated by Sally and Robert Peck.  Sally is a wonderfully outgoing woman with a young family and a passion for her new vocation.  Neither she nor husband Rob had any grape growing or wine making experience when they decided to move back to the County from Alberta (Rob is a native son).  They had visited the Okanagan 10 or so years ago, and so the dream of owning their own vineyard began.   Says Sally, “It seemed so romantic, but when you start working in the vineyard, you realize that you’ve become a farmer!”

They have a large property with 8 acres under vine (the vines are now 7 years old), and opened their tasting room about 2 years ago.  They have planted only vinifera varietals, including Gewurtztraminer, Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.  This year, they will be receiving their first 2 oak barrels, and plan to age their Pinot Noir in barrel.  The tasting completed, we left with bottles of the aromatic Gewurtz and the fruity, well-extracted Gamay.

If you’re planning a trip to the County, we recommend a stay at the Merrill Inn.  If you need any suggestions of County wineries to visit, contact us and we will provide you our ‘must visit’ list of wineries and restaurants to visit.

Cheers,

Susan