The 9^th edition of the Italian Trade Commission’s ‘Tasting of Wines from Italy’ was held in four Canadian cities this year, including Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto and Montreal. The Toronto edition featured over 80 wineries, represented by principals and their agents, offering anywhere from 4 to 8 wines to sample, as well as outstanding Italian food products (Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto, Parma ham, olives, etc.)

The Trade Commission’s goal is to facilitate and develop business trading relationships, encourage industrial and technical collaboration, and to propagate economic information throughout Italy and the world. The Commission places particular emphasis on promoting Italian agri-foods, especially those enjoying the DOP – denominazione di origine protteta – designation, these being the principal ambassadors of Italian gastronomy. The ‘Tasting of Wines from Italy’ one of several events the Commission organizes, focuses on familiarizing wine trade representatives in Canada with a wide range of Italian wineries and their products. Many of the wines are available through the LCBO in Ontario, while others are available only through the winery’s agent in Canada.

With so many wines, so little time, the biggest question is where to focus. I decided to concentrate on some estates I had visited in Tuscany, and to taste wines from a few other prominent Italian wine appellations. 

Ca’ dei Mandorli Moscato d’Asti dei Giari 2011

DOCG Moscato d’Asti
$16.50 (179259) 5.0% alcohol
(March, 2, 2013 LCBO Vintages release)
Lovely light herbal notes, aromas of ripe grapes and honeyed stone fruit entice. Off-dry, light bodied, this is a delightful wine with a fine frothy effervescence and flavours of honeydew melon and lime-tinged stone fruit. Nicely balanced, it’s flavourful and sweetly fruity to the finish. Enjoy with as dessert, or with fruit flan, lemon chiffon pie or a white chocolate tart. Restaurants can purchase this for their wine list at $14.50. 

Ca’ dei Mandorli Barbera d’Asti  ‘La Bellalda’ Superiore 2009

DOCG Barbera $18.95 9(licensee price) 14.0% alcohol
Subtly alluring aromas lift from the glass—warm, ripe spiced berries and berries, vanilla and a whiff of chocolate. Dry, this is a nicely balanced mid-weight wine offering a lovely clean silky texture. Velvety tannins and fresh acidity complement a touch of peppery warmth and ripe spiced fruit, while a hint of vanilla lingers on the lasting finish. Try it with meat lasagna, beef stew or duck confit. This wine is available in Ontario as a private order from The Case for Wine. The 2010 Bellalda Barbera d’Asti was released through LCBO Vintages ($15.95, #264598) and is still available in limited quantities. 

Castello Banfi Alta Langa ‘Cuvée Aurora’ Sparkling Rosé 2009

DOCG Piemonte $24.95 12.0% alcohol (LCBO Vintages release, Spring 2013)
Produced in the traditional method using Pinot Noir harvested from a hilltop estate vineyard in Piemonte, this salmon-hued sparkling wine offers subtle aromas of red fruits, apples and a hint of citrus. Dry, clean and crisp, the silky, persistent mousse carries delicate flavours of red fruit, a hint of peach and a touch of pithy citrus through a very attractive lively finish.  Enjoy with smoked salmon appetizers or quiche, or with a medley of roasted root vegetables. Currently available from Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants. Restaurants can purchase this for their wine list at $22.05.

Marchesi di Barolo ‘Tradizione’ Barbaresco 2009

DOCG Barbaresco $24.95 (155408) 14.0% alcohol
Ruby garnet, this wine offers lifted floral, ripe fruit and pipe tobacco aromas. Dry, mid-full weight, displaying a firm structure, it’s beautifully balanced, layering fresh red and black berries on subtle notes of earth, toast and spice. Finishing long and dry, this is an age-worthy wine that may be cellared long term or enjoyed now with mushroom risotto, lamb with truffles or eggplant parmigiana.

Marchesi di Barolo ‘Tradizione’ Barolo 2007

DOCG Piemonte $34.95 (168179) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent garnet, this red wine offers enticing floral, vanilla and fruit aromas. Dry, powerful yet silky in texture, ripe tanins and fresh acidity create a subtle structure for the red fruit flavours. There’s complexity, with notes of vanilla, spice and tobacco mingling with a touch of coffee bean that extends through the lengthy finish. Well crafted, a good value, the 2006 is currently available through LCBO Vintages. Serve this age-worthy wine with veal chops with a tomato vegetable sauce or steak with a wild mushroom sauce or cellar long term. 

Ornellaia le Volte 2010

IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 14.0% alcohol
Recently released through LCBO Vintages, le Volte is a blend principally of Merlot and Sangiovese with small amount of the Cabernets and Petit Verdot. There’s warmth on the nose, and aromas of berry fruit, spice and spring flowers. Dry, full bodied, it’s structured yet round. Perceptible tannins and fresh acidity frame flavours of blackberry and tangy red berry, notes of mint, coffee bean, spiced vanilla adding complexity. Finishing dry and toasty, this wine will cellar medium term, or may be served with stuffed red peppers or polpettini rifatti.

Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2010

DOC Bolgheri $131.95 (51482) 14.0% alcohol
Among the ‘Festive Finds’ in the November 10 LCBO Vintages release, this iconic wine—a blend of Merlot and Cab Sauv with a touch of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot—entices  with beguiling, complex aromas—mint, cedar, floral notes, blackberries, and exotic notes of dried herbs and dark chocolate cherries. Dry, full bodied and potent, this is a substantial wine with powerful fruit flavours carried on a firm, well-defined frame. The spicy, herbal notes replay, with traces of charry toast persisting on the extended dry finish. Decant and serve with chicken cacciatore or beef tenderloin with a wild mushroom sauce, or cellar long term. 

Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico ‘Familia Zingarelli’ 2010

DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (741769) 13.5% alcohol
This Sangiovese, spiked with a touch of Merlot, offers slightly floral notes with aromas and flavours of clean fresh berry and sweet spice. Dry, mid-weight, it has a fresh texture, perceptible tannins and overtones of toasty oak that follow through on the dry finish. Serve this wine with antipasto or Taleggio cheese.

Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico ‘Reserva Familia Zingarelli’ 2008

DOCG Chinati Classico $21.95 (930996) 14.5% alcohol (LCBO Vintages release, February 2013)
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot add complexity to the aromas—warm ripe fruit, subtle herbs, spice and hints of tobacco and cedar. Herbal notes, spice, a certain earthiness layer on red cherry and black currant, all framed by fine subtle structure. A notion of minerality drifts across the palate of this dry, mid-full weight wine. Hints of coffee bean linger on the dry, lengthy finish. Serve with herbed leg of lamb or cellar medium term. 

Rocca delle Macìe Sasyr 2009

IGT Toscana $14.95 13.5% alcohol
A blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Syrah, this is a fun fruity wine loaded with sweet plummy fruit and pepper, graced by an underlying floral note. Displaying an appealingly smooth texture, the lush black fruit is balanced by fine acidity and garnished by notes of toasty oak. Nicely balanced, plush and tasty, this is a real crowd pleaser and a fine value! Sip on its own or serve with a meat-based pasta.  Available in Ontario via private order from Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Ruffino ‘Ducale Oro’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2007

DOCG Chianti Classico $43.95 (353201) 13.5% alcohol
From an excellent vintage, celebrating its 60^th anniversary, this signature Chianti Classico offers weight and depth of flavour. Lifted aromas of ripe fruit, exotic spice and a certain earthiness entice. Dry, mid-full weight, this wine delivers complexity, well-integrated oak and warm, mouthfilling ripe fruit flavours with notes of dark chocolate and spiced vanilla. Clean and crisp, subtle yet powerful, it lasts on the finish and will do so in the cellar. Savour with roast beef or lamb. 

Ruffino ‘Greppone Mazzi’ Brunello di Montalcino 2006

DOCG Montalcino $49.95 14.0% alcohol
Complex, subtle aromas tantalize—tobacco , earth, red fruit, cassis and exotic spice. Dry, full bodied, a certain minerality comes through on the palate, mingling with tangy red fruit, spiced cocoa and herbs. Clean crisp acidity and evident yet supple tannins provide structure and balance, creating an elegant wine with a smooth extended finish. Decant and serve with roast beef tenderloin with grilled root vegetables or age long term. This Brunello is under consideration by LCBO Vintages and is currently available by private order to licensees via Constellation Brands.

Tedeschi ‘Capitel Nicaló’ Valpolicella Superiore Appassimento 2010

IGT delle Venezie $15.95 (984997) 13.0% alcohol
The winemaking process allows the grapes to dry somewhat prior to pressing, creating more flavour intensity. There’s a slight pungency to the aromas—red fruits, dried cherries, herbal notes and a whiff of turned earth. Enjoy the lovely round texture, soft tannins and clean acidity of this mid-weight wine. Ripe fruit, spice and the slight bitterness of coffee bean tantalize the taste buds through the tasty finish. Serve with a meat-based pasta. 

Tedeschi ‘Capitel San Rocco’ Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2010

DOC delle Venezie $18.95 (719294) 14.0% alcohol
Dark ripe fruit aromas mingle with toast, tobacco and herbs. Dry, mid-full weight, this wine is a fine marriage of supple tannins, fresh acidity and tangy cherry /berry fruit garnished with spice, herbs and pepper. Well-integrated oak offers a toasty note on the lasting dry finish. Enjoy with spaghetti Bolognese or a Sunday roast.

Corks were continuously popping last week with non-stop celebrations on all around Ottawa.  Restaurant birthdays (congrats Atelier on 4 years!), Savvy Company marked 10 years in business, Unquenchable, the book by Ottawa writer Natalie MacLean was honoured at the Taste Canada Food Writing Awards and the Ottawa Wine and Food Festival had record breaking attendance and back-to-back delicious events!

Throughout the week, I was asked many interesting questions that I am sharing with you in a ‘Dear Abby’ style.  Send me your wine related questions to cheers@savvycompany.ca and I will publish them in this column.

Don't be shy!
-Debbie

Dear Debbie….
What wines did you discover at the Ottawa Food and Wine Festival?

From Wanna a Wine Tip

Dear Wanna a Wine Tip,

I went on Sunday (tip – no crowds or line up then) and was on the hunt for wines I have heard of, but never actually tried.  Some highlights:

Yellow Tail Pink Bubbles (Australia) – crisp, dry, pretty in the glass. I can see why this sparkling rosé won a medal.

Stanner Vineyard Chardonnay (Prince Edward County) – O.M.G… Delicious!  Truth be told, I went back to their booth several times for a top up of this beautifully crafted oaky wine that reminded me of Cracker Jack – caramel crunch popcorn.  Decadent. I even posed for the Style Magazine cameras with a bottle of it in my hand (and Savvy Cheese Sommelier Vanessa was at the photo shoot with a round of Québec cheese!)

Lailey Vineyard Cabernet-Merlot (Niagara) – Only available at restaurants – all the more reason for a night out.  Promise me that you’ll look for it (or request it!) – it’s the only way you will get another chance to enjoy this big, bold & smooth red wine from Niagara.

-Debbie
PS – my favorite food discovery…chocolate cheese made by renowned Chef Clark Day fromKingston.  Now I have yet another reason for quick trip to K-town!

Dear Debbie…
Lots of winemakers were talking about 2012 being the best harvest ever.  When will the wines be ready to buy?

From Ready to Shop

Dear Ready to Shop,
I too have heard the same thing about this year’s stellar harvest. Now with all of the grapes picked (except for icewine as it has not been cold enough), the juice is fermenting in stainless steel tanks in the winery cellars.  White wines are usually ready to be bottled and sold the following spring - watch for white wines in April and May 2013.  Red wines typically need more time.  Usually, reds are released in the summer/fall or the following year. My tip, when you see a Canadian wine with 2012 on the label, stock up quick.  It’ll be a sure bet – I’ll put my money on it!
-Debbie

Dear Debbie…
I’m confused.  I saw many labels with the word Meritage - what is it?

From Label Looker

Dear Label Looker,

Ever had a Bordeauxwine from France?  Meritage is the same thing (but not from France) – a blend of any proportion of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes to make a medium to full bodied red wine.  The word Meritage (pronounced to rhyme with Heritage) is the term the wine industry outside ofFrance established to refer to the same blend of grapes as used to make Bordeaux wines.  Like Champagne, wineries from the renowned Bordeaux region of France will put Bordeaux on their label.  The rest of the wine world uses ‘Meritage’.  Hope this isn’t too confusing!
-Debbie

Dear Debbie…
When a wine goes on sale, is the wine still OK?

From Dollars and Cents

Dear Dollars and Cents,

You may have noticed that wines don’t often go ‘on sale’. When they do, it is usually because the winery has remaining inventory and they want to move it to make room for the next vintage that is ready to be enjoyed.  Certainly the discounted wine is fine to drink. In fact, it is usually at its prime, so it is a good idea to stock up and drink up!  In the wine world, wine on sale is called ‘Bin Ends’.  If you are looking for a good deal on wine, Savvy Bin Ends has a different Ontario wine ‘on sale’ every 2 weeks. Check it out www.savvycompany.ca OR email me on debbie@savvycompany.ca to be the first to get the inside scoop on deals and discounts.
-Debbie

Recently, I organized a private bus tour to Prince Edward County for a corporate client where we spent the day touring the back roads of ‘The County’ – Canada’s fastest growing wine region.  I was asked many interesting questions that I am sharing with you in a ‘Dear Abby’ style.  If you have a wine related question that you have always wondered about, send me an email to cheers@savvycompany.ca and I will publish it here.
Cheers!
-Debbie

Dear Debbie….
Ooops! I put a bottle of white wine in the freezer section AND forgot it. Is it still OK to drink?

From Accidentally Frozen

Dear Accidentally Frozen,
I have done this several time myself when I was in a rush to chill a bottle of white wine.  Not the best way to do it, yet rest assured that while slushy, the wine is still drinkable. I recommend to let it thaw out in the fridge, then enjoy!  If your glass frosts up, then the wine is still too cold. Let it warm up at room temp for a bit.

-Debbie
PS - it is neat to take a sip every once in a while to taste how the wine changes as it warms up. My experience is that the wine initially tastes watery, then starts to take on flavours, aromas and then acidity arrives.

Dear Debbie….
I have seen at wine tastings that some people spit their wines.  Why?

From Shy Spitter

Dear Shy Spitter.
Sommeliers do it all the time!  By spitting, it allows you to taste more wines without the alcohol taking its toll. When you go to the Ottawa Wine and Food Festival, taking place at the Ottawa Convention Center (Nov 9-11^th),  at each booth, wineries will always provide a spittoon or bucket. If it is not there – don’t be shy & ask for it!
-Debbie

Dear Debbie…
What is a Taste & Buy event?

From Curious Shopper

Dear Curious Shopper,
Wine - red wine or white wine - is one of the few products that you don’t often have the opportunity to taste at the store (LCBO or other) before you to purchase. You can try on a sweater or flip through a book before for a quick read before you go to the cash register.  Savvy Company frequently hosts Taste & Buy events where numerous wineries are offering samples of their wines and you can order directly from the winery.  Your order will be delivered to your home or office in a matter of a few days.  Savvy Company’s next Taste & Buy features Ontariowineries & craft breweries on Thursday November 8^th.  Join us! For more details & to buy your ticket, go to www.savvycompany.ca/events
-Debbie 

Dear Debbie
What is a cooper?

From Wooden Head

Dear Wooden Head,
It is the name for a trades-person who makes barrels.  This craft is truly an art combining different shapes of wood staves, heat and humidity to create an air tight vessel to age wine, beer, grappa or other spirits like rum or bourbon and wine vinegars too.  The only cooper that I have met in my travels so far is Pete Bradford (here he is in his workshop), who is a self-taught cooper and owner of Carriage House Cooperage.  Pete is a dynamic person and obviously passionate about his woodworking.  Make him a definite ‘must ‘visit next time you go to The County for a getaway.
-Debbie

These are the words of winemakers across Ontario when asked about this year’s grape harvest.  The ideal warm spring and the heat of the summer created near-perfect conditions for grape growing.  Grapes ripened seemingly overnight and winemakers began harvesting 3 to 5 weeks earlier than in previous years.  “We have not picked this early since 1971”, reported Roselyn Dyck co-owner of Cattail Creek Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake.  Teams of pickers began harvesting Cattail’s vineyard on August 23^rd this year. “By starting early, it creates a bit of chaos at the winery,” laughs Roselyn.  “We are madly making room in the tanks for the new juice and reading the equipment on crush pad for the tonnes of grapes to come in.”

Then there are the marketing commitments. Lailey Vineyards winemaker Derek Barnett reported that he had to cancel trips and winemakers’ dinners because now he needs to be at the winery managing the harvest. “During September, we are usually doing a lot of watching & waiting. There is no waiting around this year.  In fact, I cancelled all of the wine events that I committed to because I need to be at the winery.”

What are they watching & waiting for?  During the harvest season, winemakers are constantly walking through their vineyard, randomly picking grapes straight off the vines.  With their instruments, they monitor and record the Brix levels of the grapes (Brix is a measurement of natural sweetness in the grapes. This numeric value determines the level of ripeness.).  “It is remarkable”, states Glenn Symons from Lighthall Vineyards in Prince Edward County, “the Pinot Noir is already up to 22 Brix.” Symons decides to leave the grapes on the vine a few more days in hopes that they will ripen further still to result in even better, bigger, juicier tastes that will show through in the wine.

This routine happens in every grape growing country in the world during harvest.  15-18 hour days are often spent roaming the vineyard, picking grapes, operating the de-stemmer, monitoring the crushing machine and pumping the juice into stainless steel tanks.

The picture above marks my 6^th grape harvest. Yes, it is a bit hard on the back and knees, yet, lending a hand to winemakers when they really need it, gives me a great sense of community.  In the vineyards, teams of pickers chat away to each other through the vines about all kinds of things… wine is woven into the chatter somehow!  Gossip spreads like wild fire.  While picking at Bergeron Estates Winery this past weekend, chatter revolved around trips to the Maritimes, the pricing of wine, and interesting venues to host wine tasting events.

Meet many of these Outstanding winemakers!

On Friday October 19^th, over 20 winemakers from Niagara’s Twenty Valley wine region (aka Niagara Escarpment) are leaving their harvesting duties to come to Ottawa for their first-ever wine tasting event. Join us! It is a great opportunity to learn more firsthand about what all happens during grape harvest and discover a new favorite Niagara wine.   The best part is that when you find a wine you like, you can order it directly from the winemaker. Buy your tickets here!

Cheers!

-Debbie

I love the bubbles in a sparkling wine. My husband Doug (also a Savvy Sommelier) and I frequently begin a dinner party with a sparkler (as I call it) since it seems so festive and welcoming, although it is a lovely drink on its own and very food friendly.

I was recently enjoying a glass of Cava, which is a Spanish “champagne” style wine named after the caves in which the grapes are fermented. I remembered learning in the sommelier classes how the bubbles are created by undergoing a second fermentation (“still” wine undergoes a single fermentation), the bottles being turned upside down then riddled. (Isn’t riddling a great word?) It definitely lead me to refresh what I know of how sparkling wine is made and in this case, specifically Cava.

As background, almost all Cava is produced in Catalonia, especially the Penedes region in Spain, although eight different provinces are included in the production area. The production methods are the same as in the making of Champagne. Spain’s Cavas are made in the Traditional Method (sometimes referred to as Méthode Champenoise).

First, the grapes are harvested and a white wine is produced. Several types of wine may be blended. Three grape varieties native to Spain are Xarello, Macabeo and Parellada.

Tirajo is the second step and the bottle is filled with the blended wine, then a syrupy mixture of yeast and sugars is added, called licor de tirajo. The yeast will cause the secondary fermentation to occur in the bottle. At this stage, the bottled wine is then transferred to the cellar with a temporary stopper.

The second fermentation is next as the yeasts convert the sugar to carbon dioxide. (It is the carbon dioxide that creates the bubbles.) This second fermentation and bottle aging occurs in the bottle and lasts for nine months at a temperature between 55 and 59 degrees Fahrenheit.

During the second fermentation/aging, the bottles are turned occasionally. This process is called remuage (riddling) and in some wineries, this is still done by hand. This turning of the bottles causes the residue from the yeast to collect in the neck of the wine bottle. The neck of the bottle is then frozen, which forces the yeast sediment out and the bottle is re-corked immediately. You can distinguish Cava by the cork, which should be marked with a four-pointed star.

A toast in Spain is practically always drunk with Cava. This is especially true when the New Year is brought in with twelve grapes swallowed in time to the chimes of the clock in the town square or in the Puerta del Sol, Madrid.

All this just makes me want to jump on a plane and go to Spain, however having just returned from the Niagara Escarpment, this will have to wait. But I suggest the next time you are browsing the wine aisles, why not pick up a bottle of Cava, chill it and you’ll be delighted with how refreshing it tastes - on the patio of course.

As they say in Spain - Aplausos!

My spring visit last month to Tuscany was entrancing. The trees and vines were just leafing out, the olive trees were being pruned, and the soil was being turned as the land is prepared for another season of bountiful production. The dramatic scenery is complemented with great depth of history, warm, welcoming people and the tasty vegetables, home-made pasta and flavourful sauces of the local trattoria and osteria. Then, there’s the wine, whether tasted at the Enoteca Italiana Permanente—respository of the 1700 representative wines produced in Italy, housed in the Medici fortress in Siena—in the local enoteca, or at the winery itself. We were welcomed to a number of wineries in the region, including the Ruffino property in the DOCG of Vino Nobile di Montipulciano, as well as the wineries of Castello di Fontirutoli, Castello di Volpaia, and Fèlsina in Chianti Classico. I hope you have the opportunity to visit these wineries or taste some of the wines which are available through the LCBO. 

Ruffino
Ruffino was established by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo in 1877 near Florence and was winning medals at prestigious European wine fairs as early as 1895. The company passed to the Folonari brothers in 1913, and by 1916, Ruffino was appointed the official wine supplier to the royal Italian court. Over the years, the family has added a number of properties, including Santedame in Chianti Classico and the Montalcino estate in the 1980s. In 1994 they purchased LodolaNuova to produce Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and la Solatia for the production of Tuscan white wines.  In Tuscany, the company now has 8 estates, 6 of which produce Chianti Classico, one of which produces Brunello, and the last, located near Montepulciano, which produces Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. We visited the TenutaLodola Nuova (named for the large number of larks which appear in the area in the spring) at Valiano, about 10 kilometres from Montepulciano.Yet another fortified town, Montepulciano was built by the residents of Firenze to control Montalcino, a Sienese outpost, and to monitor the border with the papal state to the south. The legend of the Vino Nobile is that in the 1700s this wine was shipped only to the noble families of Florence, hence it was so named. 

There are only 61 producers in the Montepulciano DOCG who are responsible for about 7M bottles per year. Perhaps due to smaller volume, or to some confusion with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (a wine produced from Montepulciano grapes in the region of Abruzzo), this Sangiovese-based wine (Prunello Gentile is the clone) is less well-known than Brunello and Chianti Classico. The DOCG regulations require a minimum of 75% Sangiovese grapes, which may then be blended with 25% of any other red grape varietal.

Lodola Nuova’s Vino Nobile started with dramatic success—awarded Gambero Rosso’s 3 glasses in its first vintage. The estate has grown dramatically over the years to now include 250 hectares. As a result, a new winery was built about five years ago. Local regulations required that most of the structure be underground, hence the extensive barrel cellar requires minimal cooling. The wine is fermented in open temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, then aged in 500 litre tonneau made of French and Slavonian oak. An ingenious device invented by Leonardo da Vinci, the tappocolmatorre, seals the barrel from the air, yet allows the regular topping up required.

We sampled three Ruffino wines. The TenutaLodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montipulciano 2007, dry, medium-full bodied offering fresh berry fruit and perceptible tannins; the 2005 Riserva (90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot), aged 3 years, a velvety, balanced wine with a long smooth spiced fruit-filled finish; and the LodolaNuova Syrah 2007 from Cortona (the only DOC in Italy which can produce Syrah), an opaque inky full-bodied wine with loads of ripe dark fruit, some peppery notes and a lasting toasty finish, available only in Italy.

There are a number of Ruffino wines regularly available through the LCBO including their Chianti (#42606), the Chianti Classico ‘Aziano’ (#307025), the Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale (#45195) and Il Ducale (#332411). In addition a number of wines have been released through Vintages, including the Santedame Chianti Classico 2007 (#523076), the Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 (#353201) and the Brunello ‘Greppone Mazzi’ (#926402).

Fèlsina
Located on the ancient pilgrimage route from Rome to Jerusalem, the first references to the Fèlsina farm estate date back to the 12^th century. The property was purchased by the Poggiale family in 1966 and includes a number of farm buildings and 2 deconsecrated chapels that date from the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The site is on the border of the Chianti Classico and the ColliSenesi, offering 2 very different soil types. The family has also purchased an estate at Castello di Farnetella near Sinalunga, from which was produced the wine ‘Lucilla’ (#19033) which was released in the LCBO Vintages in November of last year and is still available in Ottawa. The family is currently working with the LCBO to introduce both Fèlsina and Castello di Farnetella wines to Ontario.

The Fèlsina Chianti Classico is aged 10 months in large Slavonion botti which were custom made to fit between the arches of one of the decommissioned chapels. They are sealed with the glass ‘tapo colamatore’ (meaning refilling cork) ordered from Conegliana Veneto, the best-known producer of this device. The Riserva  is aged 14-16 months in French oak barrique, then 10 months in bottle. Also produced are two Supertuscans; Fontallora, 100% Sangiovese from fruit harvested from two vineyards, one in Chianti Classico, the other in the Colli Senesi, and the Maestro Raro, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A blend of unoaked Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and an oaked Chardonnay are also available. Fèlsina also produces Vin Santo, aged  7 years in small oaks barrels sealed with wax, similar to the barrels used for producing  balsamic vinegar. The 45-acre estate includes approximately 5000 olive trees, resulting in production of a traditional blend olive oil, as well as single-varietal oils.

We had the opportunity to try 2 wines from Castello di Farnetella, a crisp, fruity perfumed Sauvignon Blanc that brightens the palate with a fresh tart finish, and the 2006 Granoni (a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), an approachable medium-bodied wine with bold fruit, firm tannins  and smooth finish of spice and toast.

Of the Fèlsina wines, we tasted the 2008 Chianti Classico (100% Sangiovese) , a lively well-balanced wine with ripe tannins and fresh berry fruit; the 2007 single vineyard Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Rància’ (100% Sangiovese), richly aromatic, medium-full bodied, elegant and balanced with great depth of berry flavour and a lasting finish; and the 2004 and the 2007 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese). The Fontalloro takes advantage of the differing soil profiles of the Chianti Classico—stony and limestone based—and the Colli Senesi—clay loam with a high mineral content—to create a unique wine. In the case of the 2004, well-integrated, velvety in texture, fine acidity, ripe plum and cherry, while the 2007 displayed more earthiness, red berry fruit, fresh acidity and youthful tannins on the long finish. This is a wine is structured to aged 10-15 years.

Castello di Fonterutoli
A drive up the Chiantigiana to Fonterutoli provides a true example of how tradition and technology are seamlessly integrated to produce outstanding wines.

The property has been in the possession of the Marchese Mazzei’s family since 1435. It comprises 600 hectares, of which 114 are under vine, and includes the small hamlet of Fonterutoli itself, where most of the vineyard employees live.  The town is known for its spring, whose water was historically transported via aquaduct to Sienna, where it provided drinking water for the city dwellers.

Most of the vineyards are oriented south/southwest, but vary in elevation from just over 200m to just under 500m, and have different inclination, exposure and soil types. Hence, each hectare is treated as a separate parcel and is individually hand harvested, fermented separately in stainless and aged separately in barrels of Hungarian, French or American oak to preserve the unique character of the grapes. The wines from these parcels are then blended to create Fonterutoli’s Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva.  Their Supertuscan, Siepi, is a single-vineyard blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, also grown on the estate. In addition, the family has purchased a property in the Maremma, Tenuta Belguardo, which offers a flatter site with soils with greater minerality, as well as one in Siciliy,  Zisola.

The family practices sustainable agriculture, and is in process of converting one of its vineyards to organic culture. The new winery, which moved into full production in 2006, is an ingenious horseshoe design created by famed Italian architect Agnese Mazzei. The large central courtyard has about one dozen covered disks which, at harvest, are opened to reveal steel pipes which guide the grapes directly through destemmers to the steel fermenters below. After fermentation, the wine flows through a gravity-fed system to the barrel cellar and into barrique. The barrel cellar, holding about 3000 barrels, is 2 levels below ground and has a dramatic ‘open’ wall which is essentially the limestone bedrock itself, with the Fonterutoli spring gently cascading down its face. In this way, no temperature control is required in the cellar, which maintains itself at an average temperature of 14C and average humidity of 80%. The estate produces approximately 1.3 million bottles per year, of which about 380,000 are Chianti Classico.

The complex, elegant, beautifully balanced 2005Siepi (#740019) is the only wine of Fonterutoli which has found its way to LCBO Vintages. A small number of bottles are still available. However, we would recommend that you keep your eyes open for the winery’s other products, such as the Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2005 (90% Sangiovese, with small amounts of Colorino, Malvasia Nera and Merlot)—well balanced with a smooth texture, lovely ripe fruit and a lengthy finish with some attractive cocoa notes; the Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 (90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvginon)—opaque, intensely aromatic and complex, weighty on the palate and long on the finish. From the Tenuta Belguarda, we tasted the Bronzone Morellino di Scansano 2007 (100% Sangiovese)—medium bodied and fruity with a fresh texture and bright acidity; and the Belguardo Supertuscan 2006 (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc)—a dry, medium-full bodied meaty wine with depth of fruit and a firm tannic presence, finishing with a refreshing aromatic Rosé produced from a combination of Sangiovese and Syrah.

Castello di Volpaia
Strategtically situated up a tortuous road high in Chianti Classico, Volpaia was built in the 11^th and 12^th centuries as a fortification on the oft-contested border between Siena and Florence.  Giovanna Stianti’s father purchased 900 acres around the small hamlet, transferring the property to her in the early 1970s. Giovanna developed 100 acres into vineyard, where Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and the local varietal Marmolo are grown to produce both Chianti Classico and 2 Supertuscans, as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for a tasty white blend and Trebbiano and Malvasia for Vin Santo. The property also includes 30 acres of olive orchards, with extra-virgin olive oil produced using a traditional granite mill.

Volpaia is a national historic site and as such is subject to stringent building regulations. The Stianti family has created ingenious methods to ensure a modern winemaking process while maintaining the unique historical character of the hamlet. There are 3 historic churches in the village, only one of which is still functional. Under this church is a barrel cellar where the Supertuscans, Coltasala and Balifico are aged in l’Allier oak barrique. The space under the two remaining churches also houses fermentation tanks and a barrel cellar. The stainless steel fermentation tanks under one cellar were placed there by crane, as no modifications are allowed to the buildings; hence the only way to renovate was to remove and replace fermenters through the roof. Similarly, the 3000-litre botti of Slavonian oak used for aging the Chianti Classico and Riserva wines had to be disassembled to be moved to the renovated barrel cellar and reassembled onsite. The wine moves from the fermentation tanks to the barrel cellar through an underground stainless steel ‘wine duct’ (like an aquaduct) so that no piping is visible. About 35 people live in Volpaia, most working for the Castello di Volpaia winery.

We tasted 4 wines, a white blend, two Chianti Classico wines and the Supertuscan Balifico. The 2009 Bianco di Volpaia is an equal blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, stainless-steel fermented, a dry fresh fruity wine with a silky texture and lovely flavours of lemon pie and orchard fruit. The Volpaia Chianti Classico2008 is primarily Sangiovese, with a small amount of Merlot and Syrah, dry, medium-bodied and approachable, with ripe tannins and a fresh finish. The Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva from the heralded 2006 vintage is 100% Sangiovese, aged 2 years in botti, complex, medium-full bodied, lengthy and dry on the finish. Volpaia’s 2006 Balifico is a single-vineyard blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in French oak. Dry, robust and full bodied, this wine has loads of fruit and muscle and is a candidate for lengthy aging. Currently the only wine available through the LCBO is what was described to us as a basic wine, the Compagnia di Volpaia ‘Citto’ 2008 (#134817).

I hope you enjoy this glimpse of the wines of Tuscany, and that we may have the opportunity to savour more of these wines in Ontario.

I couldn’t resist yet another week in the Okanagan this year, with a day trip to the Similkameen. 

October is a lovely time of year to visit the area, with the brilliant autumn colors of the vines and fruit trees balanced by the subtle tones of the desert sage and antelope brush.  We stayed at the Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa, which is co-located with the Nk’Mip Winery, the Nk'Mip Desert Cultural Centre and the Sonora Dunes Golf Course on a bench of Anarchist Mountain, just above Lake Osoyoos.  The resort provides a beautiful view of the vineyards of the southern Okanagan, stretching north toward the Golden Mile and the Black Sage Bench, and south to the Washington state border.  This area provides an ideal climate for red vinifera grapes, but is also home to the northern tip of the Sonoran desert as well as many endangered species.  We attended a very interesting presentation at the Desert Cultural Centre, where an interpreter discussed the research they are conducting to help preserve the endangered local snake species.  And, discussions with winery owners demonstrate their awareness of and sensitivity to the unique environment.

Once settled in, it was time to visit a few of the smaller, independently owned wineries in the Okanagan.  And a day trip to the Similkameen introduced us to some new and promising winemakers. 

After hearing Jack Fraser speak with great passion at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival about his winery in Summerland, Thornhaven Estates, a visit was in order.  I’d only had a chance to sample his Gewurtz, after all!  When we arrived, we were greeted by Jan, Jack and their daughter Courtney.  Jason, their son the winemaker, was in town on an errand.  The road to Thornhaven is a long and winding one, up the mountain overlooking Lake Okanagan, but it’s well worth it, for the view and for the great wines.  Jack’s cousin brought the property as a fruit farm in the early 1990s, began planting vines in 1996, and opened the winery in 1999.  The winery is a lovely southwestern-style adobe structure with an inviting walled terrace – given slightly warmer weather, we would have been sipping our wine there.   

After returning to Canada in 2000 from a series of expatriate assignments, Jack became involved in the vineyard and eventually took over Thornhaven from his cousin in 2005.  From there, the entire family became involved.  Jason, who has a great natural palate, was trained by Jack’s cousin and works with a consulting winemaker.  Jack is the resident viticulturalist, Jan handles all general management issues, and Courtney manages the wine shop.  A true family affair!

The Frasers produce a range of wines, including a fresh Pinot Gris, a wonderfully aromatic Gewurtztraminer, a fruity Pinot Meunier, a burgundian-style Pinot Noir, a Syrah (their first vintage) and a Merlot.  They also have two blends, Trinity, which includes a unique combination of Merlot, Gamay and Pinot Noir and Evolution, a typical Meritage blend.  We finished the tasting with two unique lip smacking late harvest wines, Nectar del Sol whic is made from Riesling, Viognier and Muscat, and Diosa, produced from Chardonnay fermented in barriques for 3 months.

With vineyards high on the slopes above the Okanagan, all grapes are hand harvested.  Jack credits two factors for the unique characteristics of his wines:  the soils, which are volcanic in origin hence packed with minerals, and the ‘lake effect’ of warm air moving up the slopes from the lake in the morning, then cooler air rolling back down in the evening.

The family was in great spirits as we left, as they had just learned they are among the 10 wineries selected as finalists for B.C. winery of the year award.

We also stopped to visit with Stefanie and Bernd Schales at 8^th Generation Vineyard.  With a long winemaking pedigree in Germany, both Stefanie and Bernd wanted to establish their own winery.  After stints in South Africa and New Zealand, they found their dream on this property between Penticton and Summerland.  Not without resistance from the family!!  Stefanie’s father was convinced that the location would be too cold and that they would lose their vines.  When he finally visited a couple of years ago, the summer heat and fine soils convinced him they had potentially better growing conditions than in Germany. 

8^th Generation has vineyards in Summerland, where they grow all their Pinot Noir, and near Okanagan Falls, where the whites are grown.  They feel that the local terroir produces rounder smoother more earthy Pinot Noir, while the sandy soils in Okanagan Falls retain the fresh flavors of the whites.  Their goal is to produce their grapes using organic techniques, although they use a minor amount of chemicals for weed control.

Their small production of 2800 cases includes a fresh fruity Pinot Gris, a classic German-style Riesling with great minerality, a citrusy dry Riesling as well as a rich sweet off-dry Riesling.  The reds include Pinot Noir, a Merlot aged 12 months in barrel, and a Syrah which had a palate redolent of spicy fruit, pepper and herbal notes.  What a wonderful selection!

If you are visiting the Summerland area, don’t miss tasting Thornhaven and 8^th Generation wines.

Other exciting initiatives in the southern Okanagan include the complete renovation of Hester Creek Winery and the establishment of Cassini Cellars by Adrian Capeneata.

With substantial investment by the owner and the design skills of Rob Summers, the winemaker at Hester Creek, the winery now has a state-of-the-art cellar and winemaking facility to handle the grapes from its 85 acres on the Golden Mile.  Rob placed particular emphasis on the improved safety in the facility, the quality of the steel tanks newly installed, and the extensive barrel vault.  The new tasting facility, built with a dramatic cathedral ceiling and a fabulous view over the vineyards, includes a tasting bar, a tasteful shop stocked with unique items, a private dining room and a fully equipped kitchen.  This facility was built largely into the mountain to take advantage of the thermal mass and uses geothermal systems for heating and cooling.  It joins the lovely guest villas located just above the winery.  And the wines, of course, are wonderful.

Cassini Cellars is located just off Highway 97 between Oliver and Osoyoos in a ochre-colored adobe-style builing that blends beautifully with the desert landscape. From a winemaking family in Roumania,  Adrian was involved with the construction industry for many years.  However,  he and his wife fell in love with the Okanagan on a visit there, so he decided to return to his roots.  He purchased a local lavender farm in 2006 (all the plants were sold to eager buyers), planted mainly red varietals, with a few whites, and began construction, largely on his own, of the new winery.  When I visited this fall, the winery had just recently opened and Adrian was still hard at work in the winemaking facilities.   Working with consulting winemaker Phil Soo, he produced a Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 which won a silver medal at Intervin.  His Viognier had lush tropical fruit aromas, while the Gewurtz was dry and elegant.  I’m sure we’ll hear more about his wines.

Bill Eggert of Fairview Cellars was also a welcoming host at his rustic winery tucked away behind the Fairview golf course west of Oliver.  I had tasted his Cabernet Franc at the Vancouver Playhouse Winefest, only to discover upon arrival that it is sold out!  However, Bill was more than willing to share his other big reds, including Mad Cap Red--a lush blend of predominantly Merlot with the Cabernets--the BOS, made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Sam Baptiste, a legend in Okanagan viticulture, as well as his premium blend, the Bear, and a Cabernet Sauvignon.  Go to his website and, I’m sorry to say, all the wines are sold out.  While his reds are legendary, Bill offered a unique treat – a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with intense characteristic aromas, a silky citrusy palate and a lingering finish.  Wow – one bottle wasn’t enough!

After being dazzled by the great wines of the Okanagan, we took a day trip to the Similkameen Valley to visit with some of the new winemakers helping to build that unique region’s reputation.  The newly established Similkameen Wineries Association has brought a small number of producers together to promote their terroir and unique wines.  Available on their website is a terrific little map that explains how to get to the valley, and then clearly illustrates where each winery is located – a recommended item should your travels take you there – and they should!

We visited three relatively new wineries, including Robin Ridge Winery, EauVivre Winery & Vineyards, and Cerelia Vineyards and Estate Winery.

At Robin Ridge, Tim Cottrill and his wife purchased their property in 1996 and have been growing grapes since then, selling to local wineries.  In 2006, after training with winemaker and owner of Herder Estates, Lawrence Herder, Tim produced his first vintage and opened his own winery.  His 10 acres were planted in 1997 and include Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Merlot.  Thirty percent of the fruit for his 07 Chardonnay was aged in barrel, creating an aromatic rounded wine with a great fruit flavors and refreshing acidity.  The Pinot Noir, aged in French oak offers rich ripe berries, soft tannins and a spicy finish.  The 06 Merlot, which includes a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, was barrel-aged in French and American oak.  It has a lush nose of plums, ripe berries, vanilla and sweet spices.  Well-structured, it has a long finish with hints of cocoa and espresso.

Dale Wright and his wife Jeri are originally from Saskatechewan, but a visit to their daughter and their enjoyment of south Okanagan wines soon had them dreaming of a move.  When the property in the Similkameen became available, they didn’t hesitate.  They opened EauVivre just this August, and Dale introduced us to the wines from his first vintage.  This included a toasty Chardonnay, aged in 1 and 2 year old barrels for 14 months, his intensely floral Gewurztraminer, a berry-rich Pinot Noir with fine tannins, and a wonderfully expressive Cabernet Franc, redolent of dark summer fruits, cocoa, vanilla and spices – get it if you can!

Our last stop in the Similkameen was at Cerelia Vineyards & Estate Winery, where we met Megan Mutch, her husband Corey, and their children.  This venture is another family affair.  While Megan and Corey were living in Grand Prairie, his parents decided to convert their fruit farm to vines.  Would the kids come home to help out?  Of course, since Corey is an orchardist at heart, and Megan had a dream of becoming a winemaker.  They moved back and Megan began taking winemaking courses in Penticton and working with John Weber at Orofino while Corey worked with his family planting the vines.  The couple has just opened a small tasting room within the large farmhouse family farmhouse, where they offered us samples of their first vintage steel-fermented Pinot Gris and Chardonnay – only about 200 cases of these wines were produced.  But they have great plans – as evidenced by the winery and barrel cellars still under construction in the farmyard.  And Megan, working with John Weber of Orofino as her mentor, has produced some lovely white wines.   The Pinot Gris is fresh and crisp with ripe tree fruit flavors and a great balance of fruit and acidity on the finish.   The Chardonnay, unoaked but left on the lies, has an aromatic nose of pear with a hint of citrus, a smooth mid palate and a lovely fresh finish.  We also barrel sampled her 08 and 09 Merlot – very promising.  Watch for more from this aspiring young winemaker and her family.  There are great plans, including producing scrumptious wine jellies (our sample was delicious), and possibly establishing a B&B.

 We headed back to our suite at the Spirit Ridge reminding ourselves that we never manage to visit all the wineries we’d like to, as every year the scene changes.  Wineries expand, new ones open, winemakers move on and new varietals or blends are vinified.  It’s what makes this Canadian wine region so exciting, and keeps us coming back for more.

 If you’re thinking of taking a trip to the area, don’t hesitate to contact me.  I’d enjoy helping you plan your winery visits.  If not, consider visiting the LCBO Vintages Online Shop (search on Region), where there is currently a small but worthwhile selection of Okanagan wines from Road 13, Sandhill, and Sumac Ridge.

 Cheers!
Susan

I couldn’t resist yet another week in the Okanagan this year, with a day trip to the Similkameen. 

October is a lovely time of year to visit the area, with the brilliant autumn colors of the vines and fruit trees balanced by the subtle tones of the desert sage and antelope brush.  We stayed at the Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa, which is co-located with the Nk’Mip Winery, the Nk'Mip Desert Cultural Centre and the Sonora Dunes Golf Course on a bench of Anarchist Mountain, just above Lake Osoyoos.  The resort provides a beautiful view of the vineyards of the southern Okanagan, stretching north toward the Golden Mile and the Black Sage Bench, and south to the Washington state border.  This area provides an ideal climate for red vinifera grapes, but is also home to the northern tip of the Sonoran desert as well as many endangered species.  We attended a very interesting presentation at the Desert Cultural Centre, where an interpreter discussed the research they are conducting to help preserve the endangered local snake species.  And, discussions with winery owners demonstrate their awareness of and sensitivity to the unique environment.

Once settled in, it was time to visit a few of the smaller, independently owned wineries in the Okanagan.  And a day trip to the Similkameen introduced us to some new and promising winemakers. 

After hearing Jack Fraser speak with great passion at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival about his winery in Summerland, Thornhaven Estates, a visit was in order.  I’d only had a chance to sample his Gewurtz, after all!  When we arrived, we were greeted by Jan, Jack and their daughter Courtney.  Jason, their son the winemaker, was in town on an errand.  The road to Thornhaven is a long and winding one, up the mountain overlooking Lake Okanagan, but it’s well worth it, for the view and for the great wines.  Jack’s cousin brought the property as a fruit farm in the early 1990s, began planting vines in 1996, and opened the winery in 1999.  The winery is a lovely southwestern-style adobe structure with an inviting walled terrace – given slightly warmer weather, we would have been sipping our wine there.   

After returning to Canada in 2000 from a series of expatriate assignments, Jack became involved in the vineyard and eventually took over Thornhaven from his cousin in 2005.  From there, the entire family became involved.  Jason, who has a great natural palate, was trained by Jack’s cousin and works with a consulting winemaker.  Jack is the resident viticulturalist, Jan handles all general management issues, and Courtney manages the wine shop.  A true family affair!

The Frasers produce a range of wines, including a fresh Pinot Gris, a wonderfully aromatic Gewurtztraminer, a fruity Pinot Meunier, a burgundian-style Pinot Noir, a Syrah (their first vintage) and a Merlot.  They also have two blends, Trinity, which includes a unique combination of Merlot, Gamay and Pinot Noir and Evolution, a typical Meritage blend.  We finished the tasting with two unique lip smacking late harvest wines, Nectar del Sol whic is made from Riesling, Viognier and Muscat, and Diosa, produced from Chardonnay fermented in barriques for 3 months.

With vineyards high on the slopes above the Okanagan, all grapes are hand harvested.  Jack credits two factors for the unique characteristics of his wines:  the soils, which are volcanic in origin hence packed with minerals, and the ‘lake effect’ of warm air moving up the slopes from the lake in the morning, then cooler air rolling back down in the evening.

The family was in great spirits as we left, as they had just learned they are among the 10 wineries selected as finalists for B.C. winery of the year award.

We also stopped to visit with Stefanie and Bernd Schales at 8^th Generation Vineyard.  With a long winemaking pedigree in Germany, both Stefanie and Bernd wanted to establish their own winery.  After stints in South Africa and New Zealand, they found their dream on this property between Penticton and Summerland.  Not without resistance from the family!!  Stefanie’s father was convinced that the location would be too cold and that they would lose their vines.  When he finally visited a couple of years ago, the summer heat and fine soils convinced him they had potentially better growing conditions than in Germany. 

8^th Generation has vineyards in Summerland, where they grow all their Pinot Noir, and near Okanagan Falls, where the whites are grown.  They feel that the local terroir produces rounder smoother more earthy Pinot Noir, while the sandy soils in Okanagan Falls retain the fresh flavors of the whites.  Their goal is to produce their grapes using organic techniques, although they use a minor amount of chemicals for weed control.

Their small production of 2800 cases includes a fresh fruity Pinot Gris, a classic German-style Riesling with great minerality, a citrusy dry Riesling as well as a rich sweet off-dry Riesling.  The reds include Pinot Noir, a Merlot aged 12 months in barrel, and a Syrah which had a palate redolent of spicy fruit, pepper and herbal notes.  What a wonderful selection!

If you are visiting the Summerland area, don’t miss tasting Thornhaven and 8^th Generation wines.

Other exciting initiatives in the southern Okanagan include the complete renovation of Hester Creek Winery and the establishment of Cassini Cellars by Adrian Capeneata.

With substantial investment by the owner and the design skills of Rob Summers, the winemaker at Hester Creek, the winery now has a state-of-the-art cellar and winemaking facility to handle the grapes from its 85 acres on the Golden Mile.  Rob placed particular emphasis on the improved safety in the facility, the quality of the steel tanks newly installed, and the extensive barrel vault.  The new tasting facility, built with a dramatic cathedral ceiling and a fabulous view over the vineyards, includes a tasting bar, a tasteful shop stocked with unique items, a private dining room and a fully equipped kitchen.  This facility was built largely into the mountain to take advantage of the thermal mass and uses geothermal systems for heating and cooling.  It joins the lovely guest villas located just above the winery.  And the wines, of course, are wonderful.

Cassini Cellars is located just off Highway 97 between Oliver and Osoyoos in a ochre-colored adobe-style builing that blends beautifully with the desert landscape. From a winemaking family in Roumania,  Adrian was involved with the construction industry for many years.  However,  he and his wife fell in love with the Okanagan on a visit there, so he decided to return to his roots.  He purchased a local lavender farm in 2006 (all the plants were sold to eager buyers), planted mainly red varietals, with a few whites, and began construction, largely on his own, of the new winery.  When I visited this fall, the winery had just recently opened and Adrian was still hard at work in the winemaking facilities.   Working with consulting winemaker Phil Soo, he produced a Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 which won a silver medal at Intervin.  His Viognier had lush tropical fruit aromas, while the Gewurtz was dry and elegant.  I’m sure we’ll hear more about his wines.

Bill Eggert of Fairview Cellars was also a welcoming host at his rustic winery tucked away behind the Fairview golf course west of Oliver.  I had tasted his Cabernet Franc at the Vancouver Playhouse Winefest, only to discover upon arrival that it is sold out!  However, Bill was more than willing to share his other big reds, including Mad Cap Red--a lush blend of predominantly Merlot with the Cabernets--the BOS, made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Sam Baptiste, a legend in Okanagan viticulture, as well as his premium blend, the Bear, and a Cabernet Sauvignon.  Go to his website and, I’m sorry to say, all the wines are sold out.  While his reds are legendary, Bill offered a unique treat – a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with intense characteristic aromas, a silky citrusy palate and a lingering finish.  Wow – one bottle wasn’t enough!

After being dazzled by the great wines of the Okanagan, we took a day trip to the Similkameen Valley to visit with some of the new winemakers helping to build that unique region’s reputation.  The newly established Similkameen Wineries Association has brought a small number of producers together to promote their terroir and unique wines.  Available on their website is a terrific little map that explains how to get to the valley, and then clearly illustrates where each winery is located – a recommended item should your travels take you there – and they should!

We visited three relatively new wineries, including Robin Ridge Winery, EauVivre Winery & Vineyards, and Cerelia Vineyards and Estate Winery.

At Robin Ridge, Tim Cottrill and his wife purchased their property in 1996 and have been growing grapes since then, selling to local wineries.  In 2006, after training with winemaker and owner of Herder Estates, Lawrence Herder, Tim produced his first vintage and opened his own winery.  His 10 acres were planted in 1997 and include Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Merlot.  Thirty percent of the fruit for his 07 Chardonnay was aged in barrel, creating an aromatic rounded wine with a great fruit flavors and refreshing acidity.  The Pinot Noir, aged in French oak offers rich ripe berries, soft tannins and a spicy finish.  The 06 Merlot, which includes a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, was barrel-aged in French and American oak.  It has a lush nose of plums, ripe berries, vanilla and sweet spices.  Well-structured, it has a long finish with hints of cocoa and espresso.

Dale Wright and his wife Jeri are originally from Saskatechewan, but a visit to their daughter and their enjoyment of south Okanagan wines soon had them dreaming of a move.  When the property in the Similkameen became available, they didn’t hesitate.  They opened EauVivre just this August, and Dale introduced us to the wines from his first vintage.  This included a toasty Chardonnay, aged in 1 and 2 year old barrels for 14 months, his intensely floral Gewurztraminer, a berry-rich Pinot Noir with fine tannins, and a wonderfully expressive Cabernet Franc, redolent of dark summer fruits, cocoa, vanilla and spices – get it if you can!

Our last stop in the Similkameen was at Cerelia Vineyards & Estate Winery, where we met Megan Mutch, her husband Corey, and their children.  This venture is another family affair.  While Megan and Corey were living in Grand Prairie, his parents decided to convert their fruit farm to vines.  Would the kids come home to help out?  Of course, since Corey is an orchardist at heart, and Megan had a dream of becoming a winemaker.  They moved back and Megan began taking winemaking courses in Penticton and working with John Weber at Orofino while Corey worked with his family planting the vines.  The couple has just opened a small tasting room within the large farmhouse family farmhouse, where they offered us samples of their first vintage steel-fermented Pinot Gris and Chardonnay – only about 200 cases of these wines were produced.  But they have great plans – as evidenced by the winery and barrel cellars still under construction in the farmyard.  And Megan, working with John Weber of Orofino as her mentor, has produced some lovely white wines.   The Pinot Gris is fresh and crisp with ripe tree fruit flavors and a great balance of fruit and acidity on the finish.   The Chardonnay, unoaked but left on the lies, has an aromatic nose of pear with a hint of citrus, a smooth mid palate and a lovely fresh finish.  We also barrel sampled her 08 and 09 Merlot – very promising.  Watch for more from this aspiring young winemaker and her family.  There are great plans, including producing scrumptious wine jellies (our sample was delicious), and possibly establishing a B&B.

 We headed back to our suite at the Spirit Ridge reminding ourselves that we never manage to visit all the wineries we’d like to, as every year the scene changes.  Wineries expand, new ones open, winemakers move on and new varietals or blends are vinified.  It’s what makes this Canadian wine region so exciting, and keeps us coming back for more.

 If you’re thinking of taking a trip to the area, don’t hesitate to contact me.  I’d enjoy helping you plan your winery visits.  If not, consider visiting the LCBO Vintages Online Shop (search on Region), where there is currently a small but worthwhile selection of Okanagan wines from Road 13, Sandhill, and Sumac Ridge.

 Cheers!
Susan

A winemaker was recently asked who was drinking rosé and he replied “mostly women and smart men.”

As the curtain closed on Canada’s 2010 Winter Olympic and Paralymic Games, Canada’s largest wine festival, the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival opened up last month, with the emphasis on wines from New Zealand and Argentina as well as shining the spotlight on rosé wines.  There were 45+ wines from different countries, with varying styles showing a kaleidoscope of colour from copper to cranberry. As that could make yet another wine wheel, the genre was indicative enough to show that rosé is more than wines that are “just pink with tastes of strawberries” (my reaction to this overused comment: argg!).

Although rosé has long been associated with being born in the south of France and made largely from Grenache grapes, in the past year rosé it was reported that consumption in France has increased by 22%. Currently, every wine producing country now produces their own version. For every red grape varietal, a rosé is being made. I was amazed by the quantity and quality of many rosé’s at the Festival. Winemakers from Germany, Argentina, Spain, France, Canada, New Zealand, the U.S.A, Chile and Australia spoke of and promoted their respective rosés from how it was made, to the body of the wine and even to the time of day to drink it! 

When winemakers were asked when to serve their rosé, responses varied from breakfast to fore-noon, to afternoon to late evening; concluding that rosé was an any time of day refreshment and not just for the summer barbeque or picnic. Most agreed that rosé should be served just below room temperature as opposed to the boney cold which many, including myself are guilty.

On the pairing side with food, rosé frequently mates with the uninventive salmon along with an assortment of other seafoods that tend to put the mind in neutral, (depending of course on preparation). However, I experienced brilliant innovative pairings such as shredded lamb over polenta, and an orzo pasta with beets and greens, topped with a pink cotton candy - Executive Chef & Sommelier Tony Lawrence deserves kudos for this innovation – that complimented a myriad of dark cranberry coloured rosé’s especially those made from the Merlot, Pinot Noir and Shiraz grapes.

This year more noticeably than others, all you have to do is walk into the LCBO to be overwhelmed with the variety of rosé wines. Although being a rosé lover, I have no need of a sales pitch to try yet another delicious dry rosé wine. But to say that rosé has now found its way into the international genre of the serious wine world is an understatement. We can no longer assume that if it’s cranberry or pink, that it is sweet and without the complexity of a full bodied wine. 

The time has come for us to stop looking suspiciously at these vibrant, fresh coloured wines since it is obvious we can no longer judge a rosé by its cover and that’s not looking at the subject through rosey rim glasses. 

Some Rosé wines that I recommend to try this summer:

de Venoge Brut Pink Champagne

M. Chapoutier Tavel 2008

Bastianich Rosato 2008

Santé,  Cheers,  Cin cin, Salute !

Julie Stock

Accredited Sommelier & newest member of the Savvy Team

You are invited!

Join Julie & the Savvy Team of Sommeliers at Clink & Drink Pink - a Rosé wine tasting on Wednesday July 14th. Click for more details about this fun wine & food event

We look forward to having you join us!

The Savvy Team has just returned from another great week at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. With over 170 participating wineries and almost 800 wines to taste in the International tasting room PLUS a variety of seminars, wine and food pairings and winemaker dinners - this was definitely the most extensive (not to mention delicious) festival that we have been to yet.

This Festival brings the wine world together to:  

- provide informative, educational and entertaining wine experiences for consumers and trade;

- be a premier marketing opportunity for the wine industry;

- be the primary fundraiser for the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company.  

From humble beginnings in 1978, it has raised millions of dollars for the Playhouse Theatre Company.   During these 32 years, the Festival has grown into one of the world’s most prestigious wine events, offering education, tasting and purchase opportunities of interest to the general public, the trade and wine aficionados of all kinds.  Winemakers return year after year, telling us that they are impressed by the caliber of the event, and the welcome that they receive in Vancouver.  And this year, the event was held in the impressive new Vancouver Convention Centre, designed and built for the 2010 Winter Olympics.

Each year a featured region is the anchor of the Festival. This year, there was a twist...the region was the southern hemisphere showcasing both Argentina and New Zealand. What a delicious great duo - creating countless opportunities for participants like me to discover the breadth of varietals cultivated in both countries.

It was a revelation to learn that Argentina produces wines from cool-climate grapes, such as Pinot Noir, while certain regions of New Zealand are renowned for their Merlot and Bordeaux-style blends.

The signature wines were showcased:  New Zealand’s fresh Sauvignon Blanc and fine Pinot Noir, along with Argentina’s robust Malbec and aromatic Torrontés.

Complementing the theme wine regions, Rosé wine was the featured wine style.  What better way to drift into spring than to enjoy the widely varied styles of rosé wines from every corner of the world. 

From fine pale salmon Champagne to deep cranberry-colored rosé wines made from Malbec grapes, we had the opportunity to experience the unique qualities of saignée versus pressed rosé (different winemaking processes to make rosé wines), the lightness and intensity of rosé, truly a wine for all occasions.  Julie & I experienced that versatility in a number of food and wine pairing events. In What's Behind Pairing with Rosé?, wines were paired with inspired classic dishes, such as smoked salmon with honeyed roasted pear - a creation by Executive Chef Julian Bond of Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. Then there were the unexpected food creations such as sautéed shitake mushrooms with strawberry mastered by Personal Chef and Sommelier Tony Lawrence of A Chef for You. 

In the fun event named Rah Rah Rosé, wine and food writer Tim Pawsey and chef Dana Reinhardt created a tasting feast, with foods featuring such basic flavour characteristics as spicy, smoky, salty and sweet available to be paired with the wide range of styles of rosés. Participants discovered for themselves the versitality of rosé wines as they wandered from station to station.

The opening plenary -  Dare to Compare - presented a wonderful opportunity to taste a range of wines from both Argentina and New Zealand. As we learned, Argentina is a country of great geographical and climatic diversity, with some of the highest vineyards in the world in Salta to some of the driest in the southern Patagonian winegrowing regions. It benefits from natural barriers - the Andes Mountains which shelter the western vineyards - and soil conditions in many areas which mean that vines can grow on their native rootstock without risk of damage from the phylloxera insect. Unique microclimates abound, leading to a wide diversity of varietals and wine styles, ranging from intense Malbec, to the lesser-known aromatic native white varietal Torrontés, on to rich Chardonnay, weighty Cabernet Sauvignon and robust Bonarda, Argentina’s most-planted red grape.

The Argentinian wines we tasted in this session were a testament to the breadth of the industry:

Bodega Vistalba ‘Progenie’ Extra Brut N/V

O. Fournier ‘Urban Uco’ Torrontés 2009

Familia Schroeder ‘Saurus Patagonia Select’ Pinot Noir 2006

Viña Doña Paula ‘Series Alluvia’ Cabernet Franc 2007

Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Adrianna’ Malbec 2006

Bodegas Trapiche ‘Single Vineyard Vina Federico Villafane’ Malbec 2006

Xumek Syrah 2007

Then we learned in the plenary about New Zealand’s southern water-bound land mass that offers a mid-latitude environment particularly suited to the production of unique, quality wines. Not only is there diversity in the varietals cultivated - from the well-known Sauvignon Blanc to Syrah  and Vigoner - but there is great regional diversity - from the established regions of Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay, to the emerging Waitaki Valley. In addition, the New Zealand wine industry has made a firm commitment to innovative and sustainable viticultural and winemaking practices which they expect will reinforce their reputation for “vibrantly stylish wines”. In 2007, the New Zealand wine industry committed to having 100% of the country’s wine produced under approved independently audited sustainability standards by 2012. Currently, it is reported that over 85% of the vineyard areas and 75% of winery production are participating in the sustainability programs. The industry shares best practices in areas such as water usage, energy consumption, waste management and biodiversity.

The New Zealand wines tasted in the opening plenary also reflected the diversity of their wine styles and growing regions:

Babich Family Estate Vineyards ‘Cowslip Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2009

Mud House Chardonnay (Hawke’s Bay) 2008

Spy Valley Pinot Gris (Marlborough) 2009

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2008

Ngatarawa ‘Alwyn Winemaker’s Reserve’ Merlot Cabernet (Hawke’s Bay) 2007

Crossroads Winery ‘Elms Vineyard Reserve’ Syrah (Hawke’s Bay) 2007

Stoneleigh Riesling (Marlborough) 2008

The winery owners and winemakers at the opening plenary displayed their deep pride and commitment to craft as each presented their winery, their terroir and their wine. The glass of Vistalba Progenie Extra Brut on arrival created a wonderful context for all the wines that followed. Owner Carlos Pulenta produced this fine sparkling wine from the fruit of vines planted by his father. Bottled in 2005, the wine was opened on his father's 90th birthday in 2008. It was such a success, he has continued to produce it!   

Hard to imagine, but this outstanding start to our visit to this year's Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. was followed by endless excellent seminars highlighting the featured regions, Argentina and New Zealand, as well as the theme wine style, rosé. The many rosé and food pairings demonstrated the wide range of styles and the versatility of this wine style. More about that later . . .

Now, don't you want to join us next year at the Festival? The featured region is Spain - olé!

- Susan