My original good intention for my second “killer” wine “To Die For” in this blog series was going to be a highly revered white, probably from Chateau Montelena. But “the best laid plans o’ mice and … sommeliers … “gang aft agley” after a visit to a private collector’s wine cellar and the quaffing of “first growth fruit”.  The wine that is the inspiration for this change of heart is one of a group of wines grown in California that are known as “Cult” wines.

“Cult” wines refers to any of the “typically but not exclusively Cabernets” for which collectors, investors and highly enthusiastic consumers will pay very high prices.  The producers of such wines in California include Araujo Estate, Bryant Family, Caymus, Colgin Cellars, Dalla Valle, Diamond Creek, Dominus Estate, Dunn Vineyards – Howell Mountain, Grace Family, Harlan Estate, Hundred Acre, Kistler, Saxum Vineyards, Marcassin, Ovid, Scarecrow, Screaming Eagle, Opus One, Shafer Hillside Select, Sine Qua Non and Sloan.These wines are generally very expensive and are in limited production (often fewer than 600 cases per year) and can command several times their “release price” upon release. This also generally means that the wine releases are allocated to certain customers who pay a substantial membership fee to the Winery for the privilege of purchasing these highly sought-after vintages.  - courtesy of Wikipedia.

As loudly as any wine produced from Burgundian acreage or any Bordeaux bastion might claim product superiority – because of its Premier Cru status (this literally means “First Growth” and refers to the status of wines produced on these fields as “the best of the best”) – the wine profiled in this entry proudly claims excellence in its own right as a product of its proprietor’s intent: “To produce a California “First Growth” from the hills of Oakville (California).” – H. William Harlan

My Second “To Die For” wine …

I would agree with Jancis Robinson when she says, “About the Harlan Estate, I had written impetuously, ‘Why doesn’t all wine taste like this?’”.

Harlan Estate 2002, Napa (Oakville)

From an elevation of 225′ to 1225′,  Harlan Estate Winery rises above the fabled Oakville Bench in the Western Hills of Oakville California. Sitting on both
 sedimentary and volcanic rock, the vineyard is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot.  It produces 2 wines: The Harlan Estate red blend and its Bordeax-style sibling, The Maiden.

Honed from the natural landscape of Oakville by its mentor and progenitor, H. William Harlan, it is staffed by a by a long-serving, talented team of winemakers and agriculturalists who have embraced the vision of producing a First Growth California wine from the location and terroir of the winery.

A Real Estate Developer and Resort Owner, Harlan purchased this 230-acre property, a forested area, with steep hillsides, multiple elevations and exposures, west of Martha’s Vineyard in Oakville and cleared 30 acres for viticulture (wine grape growing).

Winemaker, Robert Levy has been working with Harlan since 1983 when Harlan took part in founding the Merryvale Winery. Since 1989 the estate has retained Michel Rolland as consultant oenologist. Construction of the current winery was completed in 2002.

Harlan Estate Winemaking

Perfection in wine does not occur happenstance.

Robert Levy, another UC Davis graduate, has been with Harlan almost since its inception and arrived on-scene with experiences at other Napa well-knowns like 
Merryvale, Rombauer and Cuvaison. Robert immediately bought into the “First Growth” philosophy from the start; however, it is not only his direction that has developed the inspiration of Harlan Estate.

Michel Rolland, World renowned Bordeaux Consultant, has made significant ongoing contributions to the Harlan Estate mantra. This collective, forward-moving approach to making fine wine has contributed to Harlan Estates being compared to Chateau Latour and Chateau Haut Brion (Michel Jamais).

What are these conditions capable of?

“Harlan Estate might be the single most profound red wine made not just in California, but in the world.” – Robert Parker on Harlan Estate Bordeaux
 
Harlan Estate 2002 is one of those wines that can just be left with the expression, “Wow!”, that everyone utters after experiencing it. Its powerful complexity and concentration and perfect balance navigate in a texture that is pure silk and elegance. When you drink, you don’t wonder how it got to this level of satisfaction and pleasure, but you do wonder how other wines can ever achieve the same … even its sibling vintages. It’s a shame to analyze its components because the whole experience is greater than the sum of its parts – a status all winemakers strive to achieve.

(However, in an attempt to relay some of its quality), it is big, dark, concentrated and dense in pure, dark, ripe fruit. The oak has morphed into nuances of vanilla and dark chocolate that integrates very well with its typically earthy (almost black olive) quality of Oakville terroir.

Its texture is its greatest asset. After an hour or so in a decanter, its silkiness and complexity just improve.

Its finish? I don’t know if you’re ever finished with this wine once you’ve have it tattooed in your memory. As for the reality of the finish? Very long and reflective!

Restaurant Menu Matches for Harlan Estate 2002:

(Pairings courtesy of Bleu Provence, Naples Florida)

- Appetizer -
Seared Foie Gras with Raspberry Sauce

- Main -
Kobe Style Wagyu Beef Boneless Short Ribs in Red Wine with Mashed Potatoes and Baby Carrots 

- Dessert Course -
Duo of Black and White Chocolate Mousse

The complexity, intensity and diversity of Harlan Estate 2002 makes wine choice simple as it will transport you through all course choices with complexity and depth, each pairing delivering a pleasant change in palette and aroma profiles.

Rackability (aka cellaring notes)

The only sources for this wine 10 years after its release would be from private cellars, the winery itself, high-end restaurants or wine exchange companies … all will be difficult to access and be very expensive. 
The age it is at now would make it even more desirable than on release because of the positive effects that racking would have on its profile and availability.

Investment potential?

A quick look at auction prices shows a range of purchase price from $675 US a bottle to $1200 US a bottle. Harlan Estate 2002 will accrue in value even at these prices. Its quality and longevity are not yet at risk. It is a safe investment for another 8 to 10 years.

Harlan’s website www.harlanestate.com is worth a look.

If you ever get a chance to taste any Harlan Estate vintage, drop everything and find the nearest glass!

Cheers … and follow your dream wines!
- Wayne Walker

I think the more you learn about wine & the more you swim in the overwhelming waters of today’s wine culture, the more you search for the beacons of “best choice”, the wine areas & vintages that take the trepidation & guilt out of the simple act of choosing a bottle of great “vino”.
 
Many of the realities of choosing wine, like quality, price, style, integrity…get down to the game of “Who do you trust?”. Personally, I get tired of this game. That’s when I start dreaming of wines I’d like to experience…the “killer” wines that my palette knows are out there, but that I’ve never had, don’t know about, or can’t afford.
 
Fortunately for me, I am in a position to experience some of these wines that come from California and Oregon & this is the purpose of my If I died & went to Napa blog – to share these experiences with you.
 
Twice a month, I will share one “dream” wine by featuring a Napa winery, their wines & winemaker. Along the journey, we will uncover some of the pleasures and mysteries of Napa and its neighbours. 

Introducing my first “To Die For” wine…

CADE Estate Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa 

 At an elevation of 1700 feet, CADE Winery, located on the East side of the elusive Howell Mountain in Napa, produces 4 wines under the direction of Winemaker, Anthony Biagi,  in its state of the art Organic facility: 3 Cabernet Sauvignons and 1 Sauvignon Blanc. Howell Mountain is one of, if not THE, altar for pilgrims in search of the Colossus of ‘Cabs’ to be found in Napa.

Cade was established in 2005 after its older sibling, Plumpjack Winery was born in 1992. The principals were three entrepreneurs:

1. Gavin Newsom - former Mayor of San Francisco
2. Philanthropist Gordon Getty
3. and its present General Manager - John Conover

CADE Estate Winery - winemaker Anthony Biagi

Anthony Biagi (in photo), the Lead Winemaker, arrived on the scene making wines on Howell Mountain in 1995 as a Graduate of University of California (UC) Davis. Anthony’s philosophy of creating “… artisanal, dimensional wines … tasting like they could come from nowhere else”, combined with Cade’s mantra of creating wines that are “…dense, rich and ageworthy, but not rustic or tannic” spawned the pleasures of wines like Howell Mountain Estate 2008.
 
Napa’s terroir has become legendary since Stag’s Leap’s 1973 Cabernet won the Judgement of Paris in 1976 . Weather conditions notwithstanding, Napa has been blessed with three geological conditions that contribute to the rich conditions of its soils: it has been on the floor of the ocean, the mouth of a river and the base of a volcanic mountain. What this means is that the soils are capable of providing good drainage and soil oxygen, an appropriate range of acidity to facilitate the availability of nutrients like P, K, Mg and Ca. As well, moderate to good water retention, moderate fertility and a reasonable rooting depth complete its almost perfect profile. Elevate this 1700 feet skywards toward the Sun Gods and you have an excellent foundation for creating  World Class Wine.

What are these conditions capable of? 

“A brilliant texture, stunning purity and great length (that) make for a fabulous wine to drink over the next 20 to 25+ years.” - Robert Parker on Cade Estate Howell Mountain  (Dec. 2010)
 
Dark, creamy, layered, intense and long are the essentials of Cade Howell Mountain Estate. Opaque dark purple, it exhibits a nose of blueberries, black raspberries, ripe plums, graphite and crushed rocks. These flavours are warmed and carried over to the palette, embellished by dark chocolate, vanilla and sweet smoke.

Restaurant Menu Matches for CADE Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 :

(Pairings courtesy of Ridgway Bar and Grill, Naples Florida)

-Appetizer-
Crisply Seared Pork Belly (with Cider Reduction, Apple and Fennel Slaw)

- Mains-
Coq Au Vin (Baby Root Vegetables, Rich Red Wine and Demi-Glace Sauce)
OR
Braised Short Ribs (Pureed Celery Root, Cranberry Demi-Glace)
 
-Cheese Course-
Rogue River Blue Cheese and Greens (Julienne Apple Salad, Olive Oil and Fig Jam, Focaccio Crostini)
 
-Dessert Course-
Chocolate Opera Cake
  
The complexity, finesse and diversity of Cade HM Cabernet 2008 makes wine choice simple as it will transport you through all Course choices with elegance and satisfaction, each pairing delivering a different experience.

Rackability (aka cellaring notes) 

This wine is drinkable on purchase. Its intensity and balance are in no way affected by its youth.
 
As Robert Parker has indicated, aging is not a problem so to consider it part of a collector’s portfolio for future use is an easy decision to make, especially considering its desirabilty and limited production. The 2006 vintage which had a 98+ ranking like its heir the 2008, sold out quickly. 

Investment potential?

This all depends on Cade Winery’s ability to move into the integrity level of Harlon or Chateau Montelena in the next 5 to 10 years. It presently retails for about $150 US/bottle. Certainly, the wine will accrue in value, but how much depends on continued levels of production, excellence and recognition.
 
Cade’s website http://www.cadewinery.com  is worth a look. Here you will find how it is linked to its sibling Plumpjack and how both wineries are linked to Shakespeare. More on Plumpjack later!
                                                                    

Cheers… and follow your dream wines!
-Wayne Walker

One of my overall goals was to visit a smaller production winery where wines are few in number, but high in quality. Hence my highly anticipated pilgrimage to The Witness Tree Vineyard, a 52 acre sight kneeling at the foot of the hillside pedestal where the real Witness tree has stood for over 200 years. It is owned by Dennis and Carolyn Devine.

It produces 6,000 cases of wine a year, primarily Pinot Noir; however, it does produce a very good Pinot Gris and a respectable Chardonnay. I tasted 7 wines including a very interesting dessert wine called Sweet Signe that is actually made by freezing the grapes then pressing them. The resultant concentrated slush is melted and becomes the must that is then fermented and aged into wine that tastes a lot like Late Harvest White Blends from Ontario.

My Pinot Noir experiences were:

“Chainsaw Pinot Noir” 2009 crafted from a field of Chardonnay that had been chainsawed to the stems and then had Pinot Noir grafted onto the trunks of the old vines (a la phylloxera grafting techniques that saved the wine industry in the 19th century from being wiped out in Europe). As well a 2008 Estate Pinot Noir that benefited from a very good harvest year. A 2007 Vintage Select that is the true expression of Witness Tree terroir and the 2008 Benchmark PN that needs a little more aging to give it the required PN finesse.

And for me the winner is…the 2007 Vintage Select whose grapes were selected from all around the Witness Tree, both upper and lower blocks and whose dark, ripe depth of flavor rode high on a balanced, intense, silky structure. Besides, it is fabulous with Wild Pacific Cedar Plank Salmon smothered in Maple Syrup!

CONFESSING TO ST. INNOCENT:
After my benchmark visit to the Eola Grail, I drove about 1/2 mile around the corner on Zena Road to the very baptismal-looking St Innocent and its impressive water fountain in the courtyard.

A very impressive, well-groomed, 72 acre vineyard that produces 8 to 10 thousand cases a year. Here, as almost everywhere in The Aeola Hills designation, Winemaker and President, Mark Vlossack is philosophically dedicated to having the terroir of the region reflected in the wines made here, particularly as they contribute to the pleasure of food.

Again, the focus is Pinot Noir with, again, a good Chardonnay and a very impressive Pinot Blanc. Temperance Hill, Vitae Springs, Zenith, Justice, Shea and Freedom Hill were all different Pinot Noirs I tasted from different sites and different vintages. My favorite? I have about 4, all for different reasons. But if you’re going to corner me into a choice, I would say it was Shea over Justice by a nose. I’m a sucker for big, ripe fruits, floral hints and sweet spice all delivered on a caramel, creamy, layered finish. And to pursue Mark’s raison d’être, this is a no-brainer match for one of my favorite full-on red meat dishes…lamb shanks with mint sauce served with green beans, caramelized onions and boiled potatoes smothered in creamery butter with fresh ground pepper!

DWARFED BY THE KING ESTATE:
One hour and 45 minutes South on the winding Territorial Road outside of Eugene, a sharp turn out of the foothills off a blind curve and King’s Castle appears on a mountain above you. With 470 acres of vineyards, notwithstanding orchards, berry patches, vegetable gardens, flower and herb gardens, wetlands and oak savannah, driving up the mountain to the Winery is like leaving Lilliput and entering Brobdingnag! Big is everywhere.

With 1,033 Certified Organic acres, King Estate can produce anywhere from 120,000 to 200,000 cases of wine a year and all of it is naturally irrigated. This has all been achieved in 20 years (Founded in 1991) by the King Family who still own and run the property. Three winemakers with very different backgrounds collaborate to produce some very good wines despite the quantity of production. A busy restaurant that features foods using on site produce and a tasting room that puts you in mind of pilgrims at The Holy Grail, is also a part of a royal welcome at King Estate. Tours through and around the facility reveal that the production process is so large and successful that tastings, dinners and even weddings take place in the production and aging areas, much to the delight of the participants.

Despite its size, it produces some very fine wine. Sourcing grapes from lesser known areas in Southern Oregon where sun hours and heat is noticeably longer and warmer and also tapping the warmth of Walla Walla in Eastern Washington, King Estate produces some very good Cabernet blends and a very nice Syrah under the NxNW (North by Northwest) label. Of course their real winner is their Domaine Pinot Gris. Their Signature Pinot Gris is even better. Similar profile: more intensity.

I was fortunate enough to taste all of these as well as some Signature Pinot Noir and the more economical Acrobat wine series that are a great value for Oregon Pinot Noir. By this time in the Odyssey I was incapable of discriminating any one wine as better than another, but as I was leaving I saw a couple drinking a bottle of 2009 Signature Pinot Noir with a menu item called Grilled Chinook Salmon with Champagne Marinated Apricots. They looked satiated and the aromas coming from their table were amazing! You can find the recipe on King Estate website.

A phenomenal day today… so much so that I must create two entries because things developed in two directions…the wonders of wine and the magnificence of the Oregon Coastline.

A one hour and fifty seven minute ride led by my British tour guide, GPS, began to take on a disastrous character when her shortest distance programming (rather than shortest time) told me to leave I-5N and take secondary roads to get to my first destination, Domaine Serene, the winery Robert Parker refers to as the Chateau LaFite of Oregon Wineries.

What a great faux-pas, if that’s what it was, because we took a trip through countryside I may never have seen and it let me discover things like the huge acreages of hops that are grown here in Oregon, as well as the row upon row of orchards dedicated to the growing of hazelnuts. The Babe and I also got to scale the Willamette River in a cable-powered ferry on Wheatland Ferry Road. Pretty awesome for $2.

To be quite honest, apart from the hazelnuts and the hops, the agricultural landscape in most of the area looks a lot like Southern Ontario except for the backdrop of the Cascade Mountains. Corn is in full swing as well as all the apple orchards, blueberry farms, market gardens and various mixed farm produce. There is one other big difference today, the Willamette was 86 to 92F depending on where you were. The harvesters were not happy.

Domaine Serene is what everyone dreams of when they fancy their winery dream: Hispanic architecture on the top of a mountain surrounded by rows of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.

I tasted a very good Chard, two Pinots I was already familiar with (Yamil and Eventstad Blocks) and then a cross tasting of Rockblock Syrah, the 2007 and the 2008. This proved quite interesting as they showed the differences 2 different years of weather can make as well as 2 different blending styles. The 2007 was much creamier and more fruit forward with overtones of caramel while the 2008 shone in minerality and elegance and showed good acidity. Both were more than 14 per cent alcohol that provided a warm toasty impression and made both appropriate for some nice Lamb Shanks.

I was supposed to meet Grace Evenstad at the winery today, but she was suffering on a Mediterranean Tour so I left her message at the office to say I would see her this Winter.

Then a 45 minute ride to The Ponzi Vineyards with a brief lunch stop at Subway in Dundee.
As much as Domaine Serene is chiseled out of the landscape, Ponzi Vineyards is a pastoral function of the landscape, right down to the structural reality of being built on the side of an incline that feeds the harvested grapes in the high end of the facility and distributes the wine from the lower end of the facility so that gravity eliminates the need for pumping and cycling the must and the effluent.

Anything Pinot is what this tasting was all about… Blanc, Gris and Noir. All were creamy and delicious with good acidity and thirst quench and they screamed to be mated with some pan-fried Halibut steaks cooked in butter and seasoned with orange juice.

I was supposed to meet Maria Ponzi as well, but she was off site and the Tasting Ambassador assured me she had not vacated to the Med, at least not today.

I’m very disappointed in my ability to happen upon good food recipes to go with these great wines I’m experiencing although my next adventure for the day showed promise in that regard.

Since it was only 3:30 and my touring was complete, I decided I could trust my guide to take me on the legendary tour of Highway 101 down the coast of Oregon from Lincoln City to Florence…it was breathtaking…a drive everyone should put on their “Bucket List”.

Rosewood Estates Winery & Meadery

Ingredients

2 cups red lentils

1 large onion, diced

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

2 Tbsp curry paste

1 Tbsp curry powder

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp chili powder

1 tsp salt

1 tsp white sugar

1 tsp minced garlic

1 tsp ginger root, minced

1 (14 oz) can tomato puree

Method

Wash the lentils in cold water and place in a pot with water. Cover and simmer until lentils are tender. (add more water if needed)

In a large skillet or saucepan, caramelize the onions in vegetable oil.

Combine curry paste, curry powder, turmeric, cumin, chili powder, salt, sugar, garlic and ginger in a mixing bowl. When onions are cooked, add mixture to onions and cook over high heat 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in tomato puree and reduce heat allowing curry base to simmer until lentils are ready.              

Drain lentils when ready. Mix curry base into the lentils and serve immediately.

Fish Pie
From Jamie’s Ministry of Food Cookbook, Jamie Oliver
Serves 4-6

Ingredients

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 lbs. potatoes

1 carrot

2 sticks celery

150g good cheddar

1 lemon

½ fresh red chili

4 sprigs fresh flat leaf parsley

300g salmon fillets

300g undyed haddock fillets, skin off, bones removed

125g king prawns, raw, peeled

Olive oil

Handful of good spinach, chopped

2 ripe tomatoes, quartered

Method

Preheat oven to 400F and bring a large pan of salted water to boil. Peel the potatoes and cut into 2 cm chunks.

Add potatoes to water and cook for about 12 minutes.

Into a baking dish or earthenware dish, coarse grate celery, carrot and cheddar. On fine side of grater, zest from the lemon, the chili and the parsley leaves and stocks.

Cut salmon and haddock into bite=sized chunks and place in tray with prawns. Add spinach and tomato. Mix well.

Drain potatoes, return to pan add good ‘lugs’ of olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. Mash until smooth then spread evenly over top of fish and grated vegetables. Place in preheated oven for 40 minutes or until crispy and golden on top. Serve piping hot.

With Rosewood Estates Pinot Noir…

Creamy Pasta with Turkey, Mushrooms and Old Cheddar

Recipe from the kitchen of Dairy Goodness

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 cloves garlic finely chopped

1 8oz package of mushrooms

1 tbsp butter

½ cup white wine or chicken broth

1/3 cup 35% whipping cream

¼ cup milk

2 cups diced cooked turkey

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/3 lb Aged Canadian Cheddar, shredded

4 cups cooked long pasta

½ cup sun-dried tomatoes, cut in strips

3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

2 tbsp toasted pine nuts

Method

1.  In a large frying pan, melt butter over medium heat and cook garlic and mushrooms 3 to 4 minutes. Set pan aside at this point.  

2.  Deglaze pan by adding wine and bring to a boil. Add cream, milk, mushrooms, turkey, salt and pepper. Simmer for a few minutes without boiling.

3.  Set aside 1 oz of cheese for garnish. Add remaining cheese to pan and melt over medium heat, stirring well.

4.  Add cooked pasta, tomatoes, parsley and pine nuts. Stir well, heat through and serve immediately sprinkled with cheese. 

Cheers & Enjoy this month’s Savvy Selections!

More about Mead

Courtesy of Rosewood Estates website

What Is Mead?  

Mead (also known as Honey Wine) is made from the fermentation of honey and water. Honey is flower nectar collected by domesticated honeybees (apis mellifera). Honey is a remarkable product which contains a complex mixture of sugars, enzymes, proteins, organic compounds and trace minerals. These compounds give honey its distinctive flavor and aromas. These carry over into mead production and lend a distinctive flavor to the finished mead.  

Mead was the first fermented beverage enjoyed by modern mankind. Mead first showed up as a beverage almost 10,000 years ago. It is a deep part of human history and a link to our forefathers. In ancient Greece, Hippocrates used mead as a tonic. Vikings believed that honey and mead had magical properties and were a gift from the heavens (Valhalla). In Celtic tradition, no wedding was complete without a mead toast to the young couple…FOR A SWEET MARRIAGE. It has been claimed that the word honeymoon comes from a tradition where a newly married couple drank mead for a full moon to ensure a long life and a happy marriage. We find it an intriguing and historical product which links us to human history. 

Honey – Nature’s Original Sweetner 

At Rosewood, we produce and sell natural un-pasteurized honey on the Estate. Our busy bees Apis mellifera – fly the Beamsville Bench and Twenty Valley to gather nectar from the flowers to produce sweet golden honey for your enjoyment.  

Honey is known to provide us with many health benefits and provides instant fast burning energy. Honey can be used extensively in cooking from making smoothies to honey baked hams. 

December 2008
Savvy Selections – featuring Konzelmann Winery
Canada’s Wineries delivered to your doorstep

As December is a month filled with family traditions we thought that it would be fitting to showcase Konzelmann Estate Winery. In this Savvy e-Zine, you will read how the winery in Niagara continues the family tradition of winemaking stemming back to Germany for four generations. The tradition is deeply rooted in heritage and respects the quality and winemaking styles of the Old World that shows through in the three bottles we selected for this month’s Savvy Selections:

- Gewurztraminer Reserve VQA 2006 
- Riesling Grand Reserve Classic VQA 2007 
-  Barrel Aged Merlot VQA 2006 
- Special Select Late Harvest Vidal VQA 2006 – optional item added on request

Our tasting panel of Sommeliers selected these particular wines as they are ready now and would be easy drinking wines to uncork during the holiday season. Keep them handy and ready to serve with hors d’oeuvres, to unwind after a full day of shopping or to simply sip on as you relax by the tree.

If you would like to order additional wines from Konzelmann or wines from other featured wineries in the Savvy Selections, simply contact us to organize a shipment for you.

Here’s to another great year together discovering Canadian wines with the Savvy Selections!  We look forward to continuing to share wines with you in 2009!

Happy holidays,
-Debbie and the Savvy Team

Konzelmann Estates Winery
presented by Savvy Sommelier Wayne Walker

In 1893, Friederich Konzelmann, restaurateur and winemaker, founded an Estate Winery near Stuttgart, Germany. Herbert, his great grandson, continued this tradition in Germany until the early 1980’s when he moved to Niagara, Ontario. In his travels, Herbert recognized that Niagara had an Alsatian-like micro-climate in the Lake Ontario area and saw the opportunity to continue the Konzelmann in the growing Niagara wine region.

The new Konzelmann property in Niagara was originally an orchid of 2500 plus peach trees.  Herbert recognized that there was potential in the soil to offer soft minerality and warm tropical flavour to wine grapes. Today, the 83 acres has been transformed into vineyards that boasts 17 different grape varieties producing upwards of 40,000 cases of award winning wines each year.

Herbert and his winemaking assistant, Eric Pearson, are focused on producing low yielding grapes (winespeak: low yields means that the grapes have concentrated flavours) and high quality premium wines. Old vines, thinned out three times a season, contribute towards achieving this goal. Vertical vine training (a method of trimming and growing vines in a more vertical linear fashion than in a bush-like design) helps to enhance sun exposure, ripening conditions and sugar and flavour intensities. These wines are proudly named “The Winemaster’s Collection”.

Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Vidal are some of the varietals that thrive at Konzelmann. As Bruno Reis, Director of Operations explains, “This is where our penchant for Alsatian and Burgundian styles of wines comes from. The natural growing conditions and grape varietals have a direct impact on our winemaking methods.”

Certainly Eric’s knowledge of Italian winemaking coupled with Herbert’s German background (including his expertise with Icewines) are a winning combination that is enjoyed in all Konzelmann wines.

This international expertise can be contributed to why Konzelmann wines have an international market, being sold not only in Ontario but extensively in California, Texas, New York, Japan and Korea.

Konzelmann’s signature wines are white. The Reserve Gewurztraminer and Grand Reserve Riesling – both are included in your Savvy Selections this month. As for red, Pinot Noir and Merlot lead the pack while Vidal Icewine is the coup d’etat in the dessert category.

Konzelmann wines can be placed in existing styles of winemaking, but the fact remains that wine from this Niagara estate on Lake Ontario struts character profiles of its own. Konzelmann whites show a fine acid balance while maintaining an unique, delicate, soft mineral and fruit flavour. Konzelmann reds show the effort that is spent enhancing textures and tannic structure on an existing fresh, elegant, fruity canvas. The result? – favour, flavour and balance. Extended fermentation time on the grape skins and in wood barrels assists in developing these signatures.

Bruno feels that if someone were to drink every wine in the Konzelmann portfolio, the Gewurztraminer would be the most memorable because “It tastes good, feels good and with its acidity, it matches well with food while showing no negative side effects. It is the role model of all the Estate wines. It’s a drink of integrity and character. Drink Konzelmann wine and everything is fine.”  

Now that is a great way to toast the holidays!

~ Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes ~

Konzelmann Gewurztraminer Reserve VQA, 2006  $17.00
Low yield and long ripening are evident with this wine. Considered as Konzelmann’s signature wine, it shows good weight and texture and solid aromatics. This wine is medium to full body and capable of carrying solid alcohol and good residual sugars, as evident in its delicious fruit flavours.

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: This straw gold, brilliant wine is very aromatic with stone fruits (can you find peaches, nectarines, apricots?), flower blossoms, lychee and other tropical fruit. Good acidity and fruit structure give balance to its elegant, long, stone fruit and tropical finish.

Suggested Food Pairing: Serve this wine chilled (about 8C) as a wonderful sipper or paired with a variety of white meats roasted or grilled, fish, soft cheeses or salty snacks. Try the Spiced Chicken Breasts with Pineapple and Grapefruit below to taste this wine come alive!

Cellaring:  No need to wait…this wine is ready to drink now. It can cellar for up to 2 years at 12C.

Konzelmann Riesling Grand Reserve Classic VQA, 2007 $22.00
Another great food wine with its thirst quenching acidity, its complex fruit profile and its delicate balance is enjoyed into the well-ripened creamy and elegant texture.

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: A favorite of the Savvy Selections tasting panel, this straw (with a greenish tinge – do you see this?) is a reflective wine with aromas of ripe pears, peaches and apricots on a canvas of ripe apple and lemon-lime. Full-bodied, the fruity flavors continue through onto the palate with tropical fruit, stone fruits and honey. A silky leather and green pear, apple aftertaste are connected by a subtle minerality on the finish.

Suggested Food Pairing: This wine is versatile and can be paired with many food styles. It shows very well with spicy Thai and Mexican cuisine because of its thirst quenching qualities. Even serve this wine with a fruit dessert, particularly a dessert featuring fruits found in the aroma and flavours of the wine. I offer (below) a luscious Roasted Pear recipe that would be perfect for holiday festivities. Enjoy!

Cellaring: Ready to be enjoyed now, yet will retain its intensity for up to 2 years if stored on its side in a cool location (12C-14C).

Konzelmann Merlot Barrel-aged VQA, 2006 $20.00
The dry summer and cool fall of 2006 resulted in excellent ripening conditions rendering this Merlot ideal fruit concentrations and colours. This wine was not only aged (for 18 months) in French Oak (in case you are interested: from coopers in the Allier and Nevers regions of France), but some fermentation took place in barrels as well.  This allowed the winemaker to enhance the tannic structure and the darker, riper fruit flavours of the wine during the active process of fermentation and the longer aging time. This contributes to its Bordeaux-style profile.

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes:  Dark ruby-red in colour, sporting the richness of blackberry jam, earth and oak, with a subtle bit of pepper, this wine is very soft and round with ripe berry fruit and spicy vanilla flavours on both the tongue and the medium finish. Good acidity gives it a surprising quality of thirst quench.

Suggested Food Pairing: Pasta, pasta and more pasta is what this wine screams out for! Make sure that the sauce is not overly creamy. Oven cooked beef (like roast beef, Beef Bourguignon) and chicken (Coq au Vin) would work well.  A feast of chili and crusty bread or homemade pizza are perfect to enjoy this easy drinking wine.

Cellaring: This wine is drinking well now, yet, could certainly be cellared for 3 years or so (18C). As it ages, the fruit character will diminish. You may think that this is an issue as it is such a large part of its profile. Watch for any significant lightening of colour in storage as this will indicate waning of fruit profile.

A Special Addition by Request of our Savvy Selections subscribers
Konzelmann Special Select Late Harvest VQA, 2006 $19.95
Late Harvest wines usually identify a grape that has been harvested around the first frost of the year in late October or early November. The Vidal grape (interesting to note it is a hybrid grape variety), is typically left on the vine to be naturally frozen, then harvested for Icewine.  Vidal is also a great grape for Late Harvest because of its thick skin and its ability to retain sugar and acidity against exposure to the harsh early winter elements.

The panel of Savvy Sommeliers was particularly impressed with this Special Select because its weight and texture gives you the impression of Icewine with its full bodied richness and long creamy finish.  We hope you like it as much as we did. 

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: The honey texture and colour of this luscious libation almost gives it an Ice Wine profile. Stone fruits and apple on the nose are consummated on the tongue with more honey, lychee, candied citrus and warm, ripe tropical fruit, leaving a ripe, fleshy peach, apricot and honey finish balanced by sweet lemon zest. 

Suggested Food Pairing: GREAT on its own. Sip by the fireplace munching on your favourite roasted nuts, cheese, chocolate or holiday treat. Also consider serving to complement and enhance sweet, full-textured desserts as well. 

Cellaring: With its great acidity this wine will store and please for quite a while, but Santa would be very disappointed if this gift lasted past January 1, 2009 – wink wink!

~ Recipes to enjoy with your Savvy Selections ~

With Konzelmann Gewurztramniner Reserve…
Spiced Chicken Breasts with Pineapple & Grapefruit
Serves 2

Ingredients
2 chicken breasts
mixed spice (no anise)
ground cinnamon
cayenne pepper
clear strained chicken stock
fresh grapefruit juice
fresh pineapple juice
butter or olive oil

Method
In a saucepan, combine two fruit juices, stock, and spices and boil to a thick sauce.
Add a pad of butter to the sauce to give it a shine.

Pan fry the chicken breasts in butter or olive oil until firm. Cover as required.

Test periodically they are cooked throughout by testing that juices run clear when cut.
Serve the chicken breasts with the fruity sauce smothered over them. Perfect on a bed of steamed rice.

With Konzelmann Riesling Grand Reserve Classic…
Festive Pear Pairs
Serves 4-6

Ingredients
4 firm ripe pears – pealed, sliced in half & cored
¼ c. brown sugar, packed
¼ tsp. ground ginger or ground cinnamon
1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup coarsely crumbled ginger snaps
1 cup havarti or old cheddar cheese, shredded
Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream

Method
Preheat oven to 400F. Butter a shallow 8 cup square or oval baking dish.

Place pears cut side up in baking dish, sprinkle with sugar, ginger, lemon juice and toss to combine. Spread evenly. Roast for about 25 minutes or until pears are almost tender and starting to brown.

In a bowl, combine cookie crumbs and cheese. Sprinkle evenly over pears.

Roast for 10 minutes longer or until cheese is melted or pears are tender.
Serve warm topped with whipping cream or ice cream.  Serve yourself a glass of chilled Classic Riesling.

With Konzelmann Barrel-Aged Merlot…
Sweet Beef Curry
Serves 4

Ingredients
1 onion, sliced
curry powder
butter
1 apple, peeled and sliced
1 banana, sliced
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 tsp fig jam or orange marmalade
3 to 4 cups of lean roast beef cut into bite sized pieces
½ c. of water
1 beef stock cube

Method
Fry onion in butter until softened.

Add curry powder and cook for 5 minutes stirring occasionally. Add apple, cook for 2 minutes. Add banana, cook for 1 or 2 minutes.

Add sugar and jam and cook for 5 minutes. Add meat, water and crumbled stock cube and simmer, stirring until thick. May be served alone or on rice.

With Konzelmann Special Select Late Harvest…
Sweet Heat
Serves 4  

Ingredients
2 peaches, ripe, but not soft
2-3 Tsbp Butter
3 Tsbp brown sugar
dark rum
vanilla ice cream

Method
Cut peaches in half. Melt butter over medium heat. Add brown sugar and stir.

Add peaches. Cook until fairly warm and starting to soften, about 1 minute. Flip and cook an additional 30 seconds.

Add rum to taste and swirl in pan.

Use a long lighting instrument, pass over the pan as alcohol evaporates and light contents of pan. Allow flame to die down and sauce to thicken, slightly.

Remove and serve over ice cream. Yum!

If you would like to order additional wines from Konzelmann or wines from other featured wineries in the Savvy Selections, simply contact us to organize a shipment for you.

November 2008
Savvy Selections – featuring East Dell Estates Winery
Canada’s wineries delivered to your doorstep

There is a sigh of relief in the wine regions at this time of the year when all of the grapes have finally been harvested.  This year with the wet summer weather and the warm autumn days, Ontario winemakers report that they have left the grapes on the vines longer than normal to maximize the ripening.  Now that the vineyards are bare, the fun starts in the cellar!

One place that is be particularly busy with harvest is East Dell and its sister wineries – Birchwood Estates, Thomas and Vaughan and Lakeview Cellars.  Operated under one company, Niagara Cellars Inc, these four wineries share many things including equipment and winemakers!  We are delighted to feature East Dell wines this month.  The Savvy Sommelier Wayne Walker and his tasting panel sampled all of the wines in the East Dell portfolio and selected this trio: 

- East Dell Riesling VQA 2007
- East Dell Barrel Fermented Chardonnay VQA 2006
- East Dell Merlot Reserve VQA 2005 – this one is a keeper – for the cellar that is!

Below you can read about how East Dell’s Winemaker Scott McGregor ‘balances’ his work at East Dell and the sister wineries.

Travel tip – stay at East Dell to experience life at a winery
East Dell has a cabin that can be rented featuring a loft and a Jacuzzi where you can actually become a part of the ‘nature’ of the winery. Now that will be an experience!

What do you think?
Your feedback is always welcome, so please let us know how you enjoyed the Savvy Selections. We look forward to your comments on the wine/food matches and to hearing what other recipes you may have tried with these wines.  If you would like to order additional East Dell wines or wines from other featured wineries in the Savvy Selections, it would be our pleasure to organize a shipment for you.

Cheers & Enjoy this month’s Savvy Selections!

- Debbie & the Savvy Team

Debbie Trenholm

President & Accredited Sommelier

East Dell Estates

Presented by Savvy Sommelier Wayne Walker

In 1999, partners Susan O’Dell and Michael East purchased what was previously known as Walters Estate Winery on the Upper Bench near Beamsville. Susan and Michael were committed to making East Dell a unique property by enhancing and developing not only its grape growing and winemaking potentials, but by developing the beauty of its rolling hills and trails (part of The Bruce Trail meanders through the 50 acre site). Maintaining a connection with nature is important at East Dell Estates. This philosophy is evident across all aspects of the winery from its down to earth approach to managing the vineyards to the blue heron on its wine labels. As East Dell’s winemaker Scott McGregor, states “We are vine country casual.”

East Dell is part of a family of wineries known as Niagara Cellars. In 2005, East Dell and its sister winery in Niagara, Thomas and Vaughan, merged with Diamond Estates (a sales and marketing agency that owns Lakeview Cellars and Birchwood Estates, both also located in Niagara). At this time, the business – Niagara Cellars Inc. – was formed. Scott feels this gives East Dell a big advantage over other wineries. The winery has opportunities to share winemaking techniques with other partnering companies as well as share and exchange crop production. “When you can share crops, you have a great advantage blending wines because you have access to grapes grown in other terroirs (growing conditions) in Niagara as well as the expertise of the people who grow and process those grapes. You have more options when you go to blend the wines. You can produce some wines you couldn’t produce otherwise,” explains Scott. He also feels that with East Dell’s ‘Natural Philosophy’, the style of winemaking can be geared towards the specific grape variety in an open forum with three other winemakers, rather than be limited to one particular winemaking approach.

The 13 acres of vineyards on the 50 acre site boast Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Vidal amongst its plantings. And for Scott, its sloped, calcerous topography is one of its unique characteristics in the area that allows perfect drainage and great Summer sun exposure, even though it faces the Toronto skyline to the North. As well, it offers no real low spots for cold air pockets to form early in the spring or late in the fall. This results in uniform ripening conditions.

A rustic looking, renovated building that was part of Walters Estates houses the winery with a capacity to produce about 20,000 cases of wines. This, along with a popular retail restaurant appropriately called ‘The View’, are the center of East Dell.

The East Dell portfolio carries some very reasonably priced and quality wines. Award winning Riesling and Chardonnay lead the chapters of Whites. Of note there is ‘Summer Rose’, a light, fresh wine with notes of strawberry and citrus. Some interesting 375 mL dessert wines include award winning Vidal Icewine and Cabernet Franc Icewine. Pinot Noir and Merlot round out the Reds where one can find The Red and Black Cab wines. The Black Cab Scott considers to be East Dell’s signature wine because of its unique ‘Canadian Bordeaux Blend’ of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Baco Noir. Not only is it a unique blend, but it has the longest history with the winery which has allowed just the right tweaking for perfection.

 East Dell - a uniquely natural property, ‘down home’ accessibility, an unpretentious style, a secure sense of future – “vine country casual”.

Enjoy your East Dell wine experience in this month’s Savvy Selections!

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes

East Dell Riesling VQA 2007, $14.95

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: Transparent, reflective, brilliant and straw in colour, this Riesling offers fragrant orange blossoms and rose petal aromas on a canvas of ripe apple, peaches and pineapple. Off-dry flavours of apricot, peach, crisp green apple and soft lemon are delivered to the tongue and lead to a very pleasant medium finish of ripe fruit and citrus.

Suggested food pairing: White fish like halibut, haddock, tilapia or cod and smoked fish are good choices for this wine. vegetarian pasta, grilled veggies, sweet peppers, soft cheeses, fresh salads with vinaigrette, cold cuts, pates and surprisingly – sauerkraut. Spicy Thai and Mexican dishes can be quenched by this wine as well.

Cellaring and Service: Serve at about 10C to 12C. This wine is perfect for drinking now and shouldn’t be cellared for more than a year or so.

East Dell Barrel Fermented Chardonnay VQA 2006, $18.95

Sommelier’s Speak:  Malolactic Fermentation

This is a process the winemaker puts the wine through after the fermentation process using yeast. That is why it is called ‘Secondary Fermentation’. It is not really fermentation because it is achieved by introducing lactic acid bacteria (not yeast) into the process and changing some of the malic acids in the wine into lactic acids. The effect on taste and flavour is that the biting acidity of malic acid is softened into the smoother acidity of lactic acid and results in a creamier, more full-bodied wine that will exhibit flavours like butter, honey, vanilla, butterscotch, toffee and ripe fruit. This East Dell Chardonnay has gone through extensive Malolactic Fermentation in oak barrels much to its benefit…  and your pleasure.

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: A transparent, straw gold colour, bordered by a medium silver rim is supported by medium legs. Butter, toffee, vanilla, butterscotch and warm toasty aromas are blended with a hint of nectarine and tropical fruit. The palette experience is medium to full-bodied and elegantly balanced amid the warmth and toastiness of butterscotch and nectarine. A medium to long lingering finish of butterscotch, toast, vanilla and tropical fruit reflect the fullness of this wine.

Suggested food pairing: The flavour balance and texture of this wine make it a great canvas for certain foods. Certainly chicken in cream sauces should come to mind. Grilled vegetables, seafood with butter sauce, roast chicken, pasta with cream sauce, veal, turkey, ham and Gruyere cheese. Because of its creamy texture and buttery flavour, this wine matches best with dishes of similar texture and flavour.

Cellaring and Service: Store at 16C. Serve at 15C to 18C and allow it to warm up to show off its barrel complexity and full body. Drink right away to experience the buttery textures or age 2 to 3 years. Keep in mind the subtlety of the fruit will diminish with storage.

2005 Merlot Reserve VQA, $22.95

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes: This translucent deep, rich ruby red wine sports a narrow, silver rim and slow, serendipitous legs. Aromas of sweet spices and blossoms, raspberries, green pepper, leather and blueberries give this wine its initial profile. Red cherry, green plums, cranberries, tart fruit and tobacco accompany a good acidic structure; however, most noticeable are the young, grippy tannins which predominate the taste experience. Red fruit and tobacco characterize a medium finish dominated by a powerful tannic structure.

Suggested food pairing: This wine is definitely potable now, but one must accommodate its full tannic structure when pairing it with food. If drinking now, it is strongly recommended that this wine should accompany heavier meats and gravies, charred fish, ribs and chicken, full bodied stews, wild red meat game, mutton, dishes with butter and thick cream sauces and hard, older cheeses.

Cellaring and Service:

NOTE FROM WAYNE: The tannic structure of this wine begs to be cellared for up to 8 or 9 years to round out the tannins and allow the textures weights and barrel flavours to be appreciated. It doesn’t exhibit balance at present, but with the right food match it could be very pleasant. Cellar at 18C and serve at the same temperature. Four years will make this wine a very good drinking wine on its own….and in four years, you will wish that you had more!

Recipes to enjoy with your Savvy Selections

With East Dell Estates Riesling…

With East Dell Estates Chardonnay…

Paprika Roast Chicken with Mushroom Sauce

Serves 2

Ingredients
2 chicken breasts

1 tsp. olive oil

1 medium chopped onion

2 cloves garlic

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1-2 tbs. paprika

salt, pepper

Sauce Ingredients:

½ lb. mushrooms

¾ c. cream

1tsp. soy sauce

1 tsp. corn starch

1tbs. butter

1 tbs. olive oil

Salt, pepper

Method

Preheat oven to 450F

Cut each breast into 2 slices of equal portion. Season with salt and pepper and cover with paprika

Sauteé onion in pan with 1tsp. olive oil. Add chicken breasts to pan and fry each side 1 to 2 minutes.

Put chicken into an aluminum foil lined pan and sprinkle over sage leaves, thyme leaves and garlic. Cover with aluminum foil and cook in oven for 10 minutes.

Sauteé mushrooms in 1tsp. olive oil and salt and pepper until golden.

Add cream and soy sauce and continue cooking on medium-low. Cream butter and corn starch together and slowly blend in. Continue cooking the sauce for 5 minutes or until thick. Place breasts on serving plate and pour over sauce.

With East Dell Estates Merlot Reserve…

Irish Casserole

serves 4

When people select, drink and enjoy wines these days, the concept of ‘style’ plays a big role in the character, profile and experience of wine. It is a way of familiarizing the unknown. There are many ways of referencing style with wine as there is referencing style with people. One can talk about style with winemaking or growing or marketing or bottling or flavour…  just like you can with art or clothing or behaviour. Often, the concept of ‘New’ and ‘Old’ World styles run through discussions and pleasures that are a part of the wine experience too. There is no well-defined identity for one or the other, particularly now that vines and winemakers and techniques move from traditional Old World regions to New World regions and back again.

There is still value in referencing these styles because it helps to uncover the identities and assets of wines we might not be familiar with. In a way it is like discovering a tasting profile for wines. Here are some ideas that might clarify ‘Old’ from ‘New’ and “open up” some wines for you.

Old World:  These wines are usually wines that have a long, documented history and are primarily found in Europe and around the Mediterranean. Here the traditions of winemaking are very important to the production of wine. “Terroir” (the impact of soil, weather, nutrients, sunlight, agricultural method, etc.) also plays a large role in the way wine is made.

Austria, Bulgaria, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Portugal, Romania, Spain, Switzerland are wine regions with a long history of growing grapes for wine that would qualify as “Old World”.

New World: These wines are grown outside of the traditional wine regions of Europe. Each of these countries has its own history with wine that often is about the importation of vines in many cases ( often by the Church for various rituals). The growers brought their grape growing and winemaking traditions with them, but had to modify some of their procedures (like irrigation) to accommodate the conditions and resources of their new sites.

Argentina, Australia, Canada, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa, Mexico and the United States are the more notale examples.

Style: Knowing this information is helpful.

Old World wines because of their reliance on tradition and terroir will display more of the characteristics of the soils and climates they are in like the foods grown right along side them. Much Old World wine, to oversimplify, is intended as a food partner, a wine whose crop yields, alcohol levels, acid levels, aging processes and geographical boundaries are highly regulated. Filtering of many of these wines is done with natural products like clay or egg whites so sediment levels tend to be higher and the wines tend to absorb rather than reflect light. These wines often show a minerality, an earthiness and a flavour profile that leans towards barrel flavours like vanilla and smoke or wood and they show tannic characteristics more readily. Intended to be food partners, Old World often improves its impact with local fare as an accompaniment.

New World, on the other hand, is more winemaker driven. It is intended to be more a “cocktail” experience. It is designed for the consumer with its fruit forward, high sugar and alcohol profile. These wines are grown to be drunk now. Longer growing seasons, less regulations, controlled irrigation and fertilization render bountiful crops and copious supplies of wine that is brilliantly reflective because of the .005 gauge screening it goes through when it is filtered. Drinking wine on its own suits the New World very well.

That is not to say that these are hard and fast rules for “Old” and “New”. Many is the Old World vintage that is tasty and sweet all by itself. Many is the New World vintage that marries very well with food. A lot of Old World wineries have New World winemakers and vice versa, but these characteristics are helpful in recognizing New and Old World ‘Styles’ of wine which may help you share your wine experiences with someone else or choose the right wine for someone you know. 

Cheers and Salute!
- Wayne

Do you have more ideas about styles of wine, New or Old World? Email me as I would like to hear from you.