Savvy Selections wine of the month club
Featuring The Grange of Prince Edward Vineyard & Estate Winery
- May 2012 -

A visit to Prince Edward County wineries, or better yet next weekend’s, Terroir Wine Festival  is both an opportunity to taste wines, explore the vineyards and marvel at the historic restored buildings on site; a visit provides a Canadian history lesson too.

The County is one of the areas settled by United Empire Loyalists after the American Revolution. In 1972, Robert Granger purchased the 150-acre home farm on the original Trumpour family patent, including the mill which produced most of the lumber used in the historic barn (built in 1826) which houses The Grange of Prince Edward winery tasting room and barrel cellar.

History tells us that the Trumpour family arrived in Canada after the Revolution, driven from the Thirteen Colonies by their allegiance to the British Crown. Roughly 50,000 Loyalists emigrated, many from disbanded Loyalist regiments, and settled in the upper St. Lawrence valley. They brought with them their customs, British Law and land tenure, and representative government. After lobbying by the Loyalists, the British Parliament passed the Canada Act in 1791, effectively dividing Québec into Upper (Ontario) and Lower (Québec) Canada.

Building on the deep history of this property and region, Robert and his daughter Caroline Granger partnered in 2002 to establish one of the first wineries in the newly developing wine appellation of Prince Edward County (PEC).

Our Savvy Sommelier Susan Desjardins caught up with Caroline on a recent visit to the winery.  From your fist metting, Caroline exudes energy and enthusiasm as she guides you around the property and through the wine cellar and winemaking facilities. Although her father’s career was focused in Toronto, he purchased the property with the intention of giving his children the experience of growing up on a farm. Caroline spent her youth there, leaving at the age of 16 when she was whisked away to Paris and a modeling career that kept her in Europe for 10 years. This career eventually took her to the United States, where she married and began to raise her family. In 1997, she moved back to the farm, looking for a career that would allow her to spend more time with her three children.

Caroline recalls that one wet spring day, she helping plant grape vines at a nearby vineyard.  This prompted her to suggest to her father that they plant 10 acres to vines. “This place has always been a working farm. I saw the vineyard as a way to re-establish a viable, sustainable role for the property.” As part of a college course she was taking at the time, Caroline developed a business proposal to discuss with her father. With his agreement and support, she took the wine technician program at Loyalist College and, in 2001 the first vines were planted. Her initial harvest in 2003 produced Prince Edward County’s first Ontario award-winning wine, the Trumpour’s Mill 2003 Gamay Noir 2003. 

Caroline’s vineyards and range of wines have expanded over the years, with a strong emphasis on Pinot Noir. We are delighted to showcase in this month’s Savvy Selections:
- Chardonnay VQA 2007– a creamy, well-balanced wine
- Diana’s Block Pinot Noir VQA 2007 – The Grange’s elegant premium Pinot Noir
- Northfield Cabernet Franc VQA 2007 – a complex wine that we think is ready to enjoy now or can be put in your cellar.

Stock up for the summer…

You won’t find these wines from The Grange at the LCBO.  So, if you found a new favorite wine and would like additional bottles, give me a call and I will take care of ordering more for you.  Simply, call me at 613-SAVVYCO (613-728-8926) or sending me an e-mail at debbie@savvycompany.ca.

Cheers & Enjoy!
- Debbie & Savvy Team

Not only did Caroline Granger (left) learn about cell biology, fermentation processes and vineyard management at Loyalist College, she learned to drive a tractor and cultivate fields. She has maintained that hands-on approach through her tenure at The Grange. She exudes intensity as we sit in the tasting room on a cool spring day, discussing winemaking at The Grange and the challenges of viticulture in the County. “Did you know that over a 100-year horizon, PEC is only one degree Celsius cooler than Niagara? And in the summer, we’re actually one degree warmer.” She describes the Hillier area (where The Grange is located) as a bit of a “heat sink’; while they don’t benefit from the lake effect, the area has an advantage for ripening in the summer.

What did she learn that has proven true? “The main thing is that Pinot Noir from the County is extra-ordinary”. Other key factors: fans are essential in the vineyard to keep the frost off her vines. And vine spacing has also proven critical to her success. The fairly wide rows and vine spacing ensure a balanced crop load, provide the vines access to the nutrients they need, and permit higher canopies and more leaves to ensure better ripeness. These rows allow high hilling up because, yes, two canes on each vine are buried every fall to guard against freezing – “that’s 170,000 canes we buried in 2011”, remarks Caroline.

Her focus has always been on growing the best possible fruit, and now, with 60 acres under vine, she is able to produce estate-only wines. The vineyard spreads across six blocks, grown on shallow but fertile soils known as Hillier clay gravel. The Northfield block offers the deepest soils, at 36 inches. The underlying bedrock is limestone that fractures naturally, facilitating root growth and bringing a mineral quality to the wines. “When I started planting the vineyard, I focused on the varietals best suited to the alkaline soils we have, and those that would ripen early. So we started with Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir.” Pinot Noir is her passion, with 17 acres devoted to this varietal, used in sparkling wine, rosé and both The Grange and Trumpour’s Mill varietal wines. She’s added Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc (that you received this month) and an experimental block of Sauvignon Blanc, which is the longest ripening varietal. The first 12 acres were planted in 2001, an additional 32 acres established between 2002 and 2004, with the most recently planted vines dating from 2007.

The Grange’s initial production started small in 2003 at 1600. Now Caroline has her eye on producing 12,500 cases this year – organic growth that has allowed her to maintain a strong focus on style and quality.

Her role at the winery is definitely hands on, “I’m the vineyard manager, the winemaker, the CEO, the CFO . . . !” Asked how she became a winemaker, Caroline’s sense of humour ignites—‘Well, I started growing 150 tonnes of grapes!”. While she trained academically in college, with her first harvests she used consulting winemakers, working closely with them. “Winemaking is part art, part science. You start with the healthiest possible grapes, and then you create the best possible conditions for healthy fermentation, which include clean fruit, quick processing, carefully selected yeast strains, and ongoing monitoring through the vinification process.” Her daughter Maggie has started working with her in winemaking and is showing both talent and enthusiasm. While talking to Maggie as she guides us through a tasting, it’s clear she is actively involved in winery decisions, putting forward the research and rationale behind The Grange’s decision to continue using cork rather than migrating to Stelvin closures (winespeak: screwcaps). It’s definitely a family affair, with son Brandon (currently studying at Trent University) working in the tasting room over the summer, and youngest son Quinton the ‘IT wizard’.

With each visit to the winery, you will always find something new.  This summer, Maggie is leading an organic market garden to supply produce for the restaurant and the vineyard workers. Caroline has hired an all-female crew this year and plans to provide 3 healthy meals each day for her staff. “I want my workplace to be more accessible for women.” It is clear that Caroline never stands still!

Cheers & Enjoy your Savvy Selections!

Northfield Cabernet Franc 2007 VQA $35.00

Planted in 2003, this vineyard benefits from the high plateau on which it is located, protected from frost and exposed to maximum seasonal sunshine, assuring full even ripening of the fruit. Once again, only the exceptional barrels were selected for this Grange wine. We are excited that Caroline had ‘just enough’ bottles of this wine to be included in Savvy Selections.  There are only 2 cases left!  If you would like more – contact Debbie sooner than later!

Savvy Sommelier Tasting Notes:  Dry, medium bodied, this wine offers subtle aromas, ranging from floral, vanilla, cigar box and campfire smoke through dried cherries, berries and plum. Subtle notes of roasted red pepper and herbs mingle with vibrant red berry flavours. The well integrated tannins and lively acidity provide the structure for further aging, while appealing notes of sweet spice linger on the finish.

Suggested Food Pairing: Simply put – Lamb anyone?

Cellaring: Delicious now, this wine will cellar a further 3-4 years

With Trumpour’s Mill Chardonnay…

Perfect Lemon Roasted Chicken
Adapted from Anna & Michael Olson, Cook at Home
Serves 6

Ingredients
1 4 lb. roasting chicken
1 onion, sliced
2 lemons, sliced
2-4 cloves garlic, peeled, sliced
4 sprigs fresh rosemary
Extra virgin olive oil for basting
Coarsely ground salt & pepper

Vinaigrette
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
½ tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
2-4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method

1. For chicken, preheat oven to 350F. Arrange half the onion slices, lemon slices and 1-2 cloves of garlic in a roasting pan just a few inches larger than the chicken. Place the chicken on top of the vegetables and fill its cavity with the remaining onion, lemon and garlic. Insert rosemary sprigs into cavity. Baste chicken with olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt & pepper.
2.  Cover pan and roast for about 1 hour. Remove cover, baste chicken with juices from bottom of pan and continue roasting until an internal temperature of 175 F is reached (about 30-45 minutes more). Remove pan from oven and let chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving.
3. While chicken is resting, prepare vinaigrette. Strain onion, lemon and garlic from bottom of pan, saving juices to return to pan (discard vegetables). Place pan over medium heat and add lemon juice, stirring to pull up any caramelized bits. Stir in Dijon mustard and rosemary and remove from heat. Whisk in olive oil slowly and season to taste. Carve chicken and spoon vinaigrette over chicken.

With Diana’s Block Pinot Noir …

Smoked Grilled Salmon
Lucy Waverman & James Chatto, A Matter of Taste
Serves 4-6

Ingredients
2 lb salmon fillet
1 Tbsp maple syrup
1 Tbsp dry mustard
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp cracked peppercorns
Soaked cedar plank

 Method

1. Combine the maple syrup, dry mustard, salt & pepper and spread over salmon fillet. Marinate 30 minutes.
2. Place a smoker basket with wood chips on BBQ coals. Heat grill over high heat until you see smoke. 
3. Place a soaked cedar plank on grill and leave for 3-4 minutes, or until you smell smoke. Immediately turn plank and place fish on top. 
4. Cover grill and cook salmon for 10-15 minutes, or until fish is just cooked. Cut salmon into serving portions on plank and slide off onto serving plates.

With Northfield Cabernet Franc…

Grilled Lamb Loin with Sundried Tomato Vinaigrette
Anna & Michael Olson, Cook at Home
Serves 12

Ingredients
12 boneless lamb loins, 6-7oz. each
6 garlic cloves, crushed
1 Tbsp chopped fresh thyme
2 tsp cracked black pepper
¼ C extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp coarse salt

Vinaigrette

2/3 C diced sundried tomatoes
2/3 C chopped Italian flat leaf parsley
¼ C extra virgin olive oil
¼ C balsamic vinegar
¼ C water
Coarse salt & ground black pepper

 Method

1.  For vinaigrette, purée all ingredients in a food processor & season to taste. Chill until ready to serve.

2.  For lamb, preheat grill to highest setting. Marinate the lamb in the garlic, thyme, pepper and oil at room temperature for 20 minutes. Add salt & place on grill. After 4 minutes, turn lamb over & reduce heat to medium. Cook 5 minutes for medium doneness.  

3.  To serve, slice the lamb loin into 5 pieces diagonally across the grain of the meat. Fan out them out, overlapping the slices on the plate and top with vinaigrette. Serve with boiled new potatoes and roasted root vegetable medley.

 Cheers & Enjoy this month’s Savvy Selections!

Premium wines from some of California’s historic producers are showcased in the May 12 LCBO Vintages release. While California is home to almost every known vitis vinifera the focus is on 3 classics: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Historical records suggest that the vine was introduced to California as early as the late 1700s by Franciscan missionaries. The climate was extremely favourable to viticulture and as the missions moved north, so did the vine. Phylloxera and mildew took their toll in the late 1800s, and the industry was almost completely obliterated by Prohibition through the 1920s and 30s.

But wine has staged a comeback since the 1980s, with certain California wines commanding over $100, such as the Far Niente ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon in this release. Zinfandel, related to Primitivo and thought to be descended from an obscure Croatian varietal, was introduced to California some time during the Gold Rush and became one of the leading grapes in the state, as it adapted well to the soils and climates. There are many long-established vineyards in the states, thus it is quite common to find outstanding old-vine wines from producers such as Ravenswood.

The 1976 Judgement of Paris established California’s pedigree for Cabernet Sauvignon, when a Stag’s Leap Cab beat out the classified Bordeaux estates. Generally known for producing rich, fruity full-bodied wines, California’s mountain vineyards also produce more intense Bordeaux-style wines. Chardonnay is California’s most planted varietal and was made famous by Château Montelena, which won the 1973 Judgement of Paris with its Alexander Valley Chardonnay. The journey of the family and this wine to the competition in Paris is immortalized in the film ‘Bottleshock’ – if you haven’t seen it, give it a whirl, while you sip a glass of the opulent and well-priced Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay.

The secondary release highlights rosés from around the world. The most common method of producing rosé is called saignée, where red grapes are crushed and left in contact with the skin for a short period, usually less than 24 hours, to impart color and flavour. That first juice is then fermented separately to produce rosé. For a benchmark dry rosé, consider Château d`Aquèria Tavel Rosé. Should you prefer an organic wine, try the Natura Rosé from Chile, or stay close to home with the just off-dry rosé from Featherstone, or the dry yet fruity Fielding Estate Rosé.

The Israeli wine feature offers a cross-section of white and red wines, from Sauvignon Blanc to Cabernet Sauvignon. Argentina strikes again in this release, with some great values, such as the Finca Flichman Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blend and the Kaiken Cabernet Sauvignon included in this selection. One of my favorite sparkling wines is available in the release, Louis Bouillot Perle d’Aurore Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne. In addition to the two Canadian rosés, both the Angels Gate Mountainview Chardonnay and the Fielding Estate Sauvignon Blanc shine among the Local Talent.

Cheers and Enjoy,


Susan



If only I had $100, I would buy . . .

St-Nicolas Rosé Crackling Cider

Québec, Canada

$19.95 (Vintages #275362) 7.0% alcohol
Here’s a lovely combination of local summer and autumn fruit in a lightly alcoholic lipsmackingly tasty sparkler. The subtle aromas of strawberries and raspberries macerated with the apple cider tantalize the nose. A mouth-filling, palate-cleansing mousse explodes on the palate. Dry yet fruity, this beverage has a vibrant texture and would be a fine match for a rustic paté or fine Ontario cheddar.



Featherstone Rosé VQA 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
$14.95 (Vintages #117861) 12.0% alcohol
The vibrant candy-apple pink tone appeals, as do the sweet floral, red fruit and candy apple aromas of this fruity, mid-weight rosé. There’s a tantalizing whiff of herbs and grilled peppers, tasty red berry flavours, a tangy fresh texture, and a nice clean, juicy finish. Sip on the patio or the porch, pair with almost any appetizer, pizza or light grilled meat!
 


Finca Flichman ‘Expresiones Reserve’ Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza, Argentina
$15.95 (Vintages #507707) 14.5% alcohol
Inky purple, aged 8 months in French and American oak, this dry full-bodied red blend is loaded with luscious ripe black fruit. The aromas include hints of mint and smoke twining around the fruit, the flavours offering hints of dried fruit, spice, chocolate and vanilla. There’s good structure and complexity in this wine, concentrated fruit framed by ripe tannins and fresh acidity, and a finish that dry, warm and fruity. Great value and a good choice for barbequed red meats.

Kaiken Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Mendoza, Argentina
$14.95 (Vintages #261891) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s another great value, a classic Cabernet displaying aromas and flavours of cedar, black berries, vanilla and charry toast. Dry, full bodied, the palate offers concentrated fruit, a subtle structure and a fresh yet fruity texture. Deftly crafted, nicely balanced, it finishes with a warm fruity flare. A natural match for grilled meats. 



Domaine Boisson Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France
$19.95 (Vintages #264630) 15.0% alcohol
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvèdre and Carignan, this wine offers alluring aromas—spicy floral perfume, dried herbs, sweet ripe berries and dried cherries. Dry, medium-full bodied, spicy peppery notes garnish a dense core of rich ripe fruit. The underlying structure is clean and firm, the finish dry yet fruity. Savour it now or cellar medium term.

Juan Gil ‘White Label de Cepas Viejas’ Monastrell 2010
DO Jumilla, Spain
$12.95 (Vintages #13656) 14.5% alcohol
The grapes from this hot windy region often grow sparingly on gnarly bush vines that are often decades old, thus providing dense concentrated flavours. This wine offers aromas of black cherries, berries, vanilla and sweet spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s a firm structure underlying the dark berry fruit, the light oak aging bringing subtle hints of tobacco, cedar and toast. This is a great value—load up the wagon! 



Grand Total: $98.70

Worth the Splurge . . .

Gallo Family ‘Frei Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Dry Creek Valley, California
$34.95 (Vintages #555607) 15.0% alcohol
Opaque, ruby purple, the aromas of this big powerful wine roll from the glass—ripe dark fruit, warm baking spice, vanilla, cedar and sweet herbs. Dry, full bodied, offering great depth and concentration, there’s subtle structure and beautiful balance. The texture is velvety, the fruit generous and the lasting finish palate coating, almost viscous. Drinking well now, it’s designed for long-term cellaring.

The April 28 release at LCBO Vintages provides an opportunity to sample some tantalizing wines from one of Italy’s major wine-producing regions, the Veneto. The sampling ranges from fresh, sparkling Prosecco to the better-known white wines, Soave and Garganega, and the well-known red wines of the region, such as Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone, these latter produced with a blend of local varietals, principally Corvina and Rondinella, with Marinara, Negrara, Oseleta or others rounding out the equation. The release also includes a single-varietal Corvina, and an interesting blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from Maculan.

The DOC Valdobbiadene is the home of Prosecco, which was revolutionized by enologist Antonio Carpenè, who was the first in Italy to develop the tank method of secondary fermentation for sparkling wines (known as Charmat). He established Carpenè Malvolti in the late 1800s (it is one of the Grandi Marchi, a grouping of some of Italy’s most respected wine families), as well as a school of enology in Conegliano, which still exists and is considered one of the best in Italy.

The Valpolicella DOC is centred around Verona, the name meaning ‘valley of many cellars’. To produce Amarone, the Valpolicella grapes are harvested in the fall, then spread out to dry (traditionally on straw mats) for several months. This process concentrates the sugars in the grapes, as the water evaporates. These dried grapes are then pressed and vinified, with the wine generally fermented in steel tanks and aged in barrel. The wine develops great concentration, and a combination of luscious fruit and substantial structure. Ripasso holds the middle ground between a Valpolicella and an Amarone, in terms of weight and substance. The pressed Amarone grapes are introduced to a young Valpolicella wine, which is given an extended maceration. The process tends to enhance the body of the wine, adding complexity, flavour and colour.

The secondary feature focuses on the white wines of Marlborough, New Zealand’s best-known and largest wine region. Marlborough is a cool-climate region, where the grapes benefit from sunny dry conditions and an extended ripening period that intensifies their flavours. Diurnal temperature variations are one of the reasons the white wines display such fresh, crisp flavours and texture. There’s a lovely range of varietal wines in this selection, from the classic zesty Sauvignon Blanc to a luscious Gewürztraminer, fruity Pinot Gris (the new ‘it’ varietal) and Chardonnay.

Among the Canadian wines in this release, I would recommend two white wines: the lively, well-balanced Pondview Chardonnay, and Malivoire’s very approachable Riesling, which displays a delicious marriage of ripe sweet fruit and fresh acidity.

Cheers and Enjoy,

 Susan



Vinea Garganega 2010
IGT Veronese, Italy
$13.95 (Vintages #230656) 13.0% alcohol

Fragrant aromas of peach, orchard fruit, a whiff of citrus and mineral waft from the glass of this dry, medium-bodied wine. Finely balanced, round and smooth, it offers flavours of ripe pear and yellow plum, soft citrus notes and lively fresh acidity. It finishes long, dry and fruity. A great choice to pair with seafood or a selection of soft cheeses.



Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewürztraminer 2009

Marlborough, New Zealand

$17.95 (Vintages #60129) 14.0% alcohol

Just off-dry, this award-winning wine offers lovely floral aromas, lychee, citrus, honey and spice. The texture is luscious and satin-like, the flavours display the characteristic spiciness, a replay of lychee and a clean fresh finish. Beautifully crafted and balanced, this wine will pair with salmon rillettes.



Maculan ‘Brentino’ Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
IGT Veneto, Italy

$18.95 (Vintages #708297) 13.5% alcohol
This structured value-laden blend of the classic Bordeaux grapes offers tantalizing aromas of spiced plum, black fruit, nuances of cedar and earth. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine showcases tasty red fruit, fresh acidity and somewhat grippy tannins. A match for meaty lasagna or grilled ribeye steaks, it will also cellar medium term. 



Frei Brothers ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Alexander Valley, California

$23.95 (Vintages #38075)) 14.2% alcohol
Inky purple, this is a substantial, heady wine offering complex aromas of mint, cassis, cedar, sweet spice and earthy undergrowth. Dry, full bodied, it’s rich and robust, displaying great depth and intensity of fruit flavours, the perceptible tannins and fresh acidity bringing a fine balance. The long-lasting finish offers tasty lingering notes of vanilla and cedar. Enjoyable now, the wine is structured to cellar long term. 



St. Hallett ‘Gamekeeper’s’ Shiraz 2009

Barossa, South Australia

$15.95 (Vintages #166991) 14.0% alcohol

Alluring aromas of black cherry, ripe red berries, spice and vanilla leap from the glass. Dry, full bodied this is a generous, fruit-forward wine that’s quite plush and softly framed, offering flavours of dark fruit and a nuance of chocolate. Toasty spiced oak garnishes the fruit-filled finish. Hedonistic and a great value, enjoy it now with your favorite barbequed meat! 




Grand Total: $90.75

To prepare for celebrating World Malbec Day next week (on April 17), LCBO Vintages showcases wines from Argentina – many made with Malbec grapes. Argentina continues to grow as one of the world’s largest producers, ranking 5^th behind France, Italy, Spain and the U.S. and producing wines of quality and value.  History tells us that as early as the 16^th century, missionaries from Europe brought vines with them, Mendoza being one of the first areas where vineyards were planted, with the wines improving in quality to the point that they were recognized across the region.

In the late 1800s, immigrants from Italy and Spain brought several European varietals, planting them in fertile valleys where the indigenous peoples had created, hundreds of years earlier, an extensive system of irrigation canals to support their food crops. The control of water to the vines through flood irrigation (which also controls the pest phylloxera), along with ideal hot days and cool nights, create almost ideal conditions for grape growing.  Malbec, a relatively minor grape in Bordeaux blends, thrives in the hot dry climate, and has become Argentina’s signature grape, while red varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda are developing a reputation. Torrontès is the most widely planted white varietal.

As Argentina’s attention shifted from domestic demand to interntional export, well-established descendents of the original European immigrants, such as Nicolas Catena, played a key role in shifting the focus to premium varieties planted on specifically selected terroir, quality over quantity, focused vineyard management, and the introduction of new technology in the cellar. Substantial European investment has also brought large international producers such as Lurton to the country.

For those who seek out organic wines, the second feature of this Vintages release is for you.  Organic grape growing follows certain principles including the use of only natural fertilizers, no pesticide or herbicide use, and more intensive vineyard management, often including hand harvesting and lower crop yields.  Organic winemaking requires the winemaker to follows a set of specified regulations, such as the absence of any synthetic additives in fining, restricted use of sulfites, etc.

Biodynamic wines are produced using organic methods, but also treat the farm environment in a wholistic manner and follow a specific regimen laid out by the Demeter calendar.  Many winemakers using these methods do so because of their conviction that biodynamic practices produce better wines while ensuring a healthy environment.  Among the organic wines, Argentina is again represented with a Zuccardi Rosé, the country’s hot dry climate providing ideal conditions for organic production. Our selection for this release includes 6 wines, including 2 from the Argentine feature and one from the Eco-friendly feature.

Cheers and Enjoy! – Susan

Babich ‘Fernhill Individual Vineyard’ Viognier 2010

Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
$16.95 (Vintages #269282) 14.0% alcohol
A lovely Viognier offering subtle aromas of stone and tropical fruit with a whiff of sweet spice and floral. Rich, generous fruit flavours provide substantial texture, a mineral character presents, appropriate citrusy acidity assuring lovely balance. Finishing long and fruity, this is a gutsy wine that would be a match for lamb curry.



Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Pinot Gris 2009

AOC Alsace, France
$14.95 (Vintages #983395) 13.5% alcohol
Yet another great value from Alsace, this wine is golden! Lovely floral notes mingle with aromas of stone and orchard fruit and a scent of lemon curd. A clean tangy texture offers a frame for almost honeyed fruit and notes of candied citrus. There’s depth, good balance, and long tasty finish. The perfect match for mildly spiced Thai food or for duck à l’orange.


Chakana ‘Yaguareté Collection’ Bonarda 2010

Mendoza, Argentina
$12.95 (Vintages #3525)) 13.5% alcohol
What a great value, and an opportunity to try this lesser known yet very flavourful varietal that has found its home in Argentina after migrating from Europe. The aromas express sweet ripe dark berries, notes of vanilla and spice reflecting the well-managed oak aging. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s well balanced, the ripe tannins and nice tangy texture matching the concentrated dark fruit and fine spices. Enjoy it with burgers or barbequed sausages. 



Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Mendoza, Argentina
$14.95 (Vintages #261891) 14.5% alcohol
Recipient of an international award, this inky wine is dry, medium-full bodied, and flows across the palate like satin. It’s concentrated and fruity, displaying subtle hints of herbs and cedar. The balance of supple tannins, fresh acidity and ripe dark berry fruit makes for an appealing taste experience, the lasting finish pleasantly dry and warm. Enjoy with full-flavoured meats or cellar medium term.

Bonterra Zinfandel 2009

Mendocino/Amador/Lake Counties, California
$19.95 (Vintages #530139) 14.5% alcohol
Bonterra has been using sustainable organic and biodynamic grape growing and winemaking methods for over 20 years. This award-winning organic wine is ripe and fruity on the nose, redolent with spice, vanilla and a slight floral note. Dry, medium-full bodied and focused, the core of dark juicy fruit is framed by fresh acidity and somewhat chalky tannins. Notes of char, pepper and spice garnish a lasting dry finish. Enjoy it with robust barbequed meats. 



Torre Quarto ‘Bottaccia’ Uva di Troia 2008
IGT Puglia, Italy
$15.95 (Vintages #161737) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a spicy floral hint here, along with delicious berry fruit, earth and sweet herbs. Dry mid-weight, this is a very nicely balanced wine with a fine smooth texture, almost floral flavours and a bushel of dark berry fruit garnished with spice and vanilla. It finishes fresh and fruity. Step out of your comfort zone and try this lesser-known varietal!




Grand Total: $95.70

Easter weekend follows this LCBO Vintages release & offers some excellent choices for a springtime brunch or dinner along with a small selection of Ontario wines to serve with your meal. For brunch, or just to celebrate, there’s a range of sparkling wines available, from a Grand Millésime Champagne, to an appealing South African Blanc de Blanc Brut and a classic extra dry Prosecco. Main courses at this festive time often include turkey, ham or lamb & there’s a choice of Chardonnay, such as First Press or Amayna, or Yalumba’s Viognier to go with your roast turkey or glazed ham, or split the difference with Zuccardi’s Chardonnay/Viognier blend.

If you’re a red wine lover, try the Oregon or Chilean Pinot Noir with these lighter meats. Should lamb be your choice, consider the range of red wines available, including Cabernet Sauvignon from California, a well-priced Merlot-dominated Bordeaux, a Bonarda from Argentina or a fine Tempranillo from Spain. Looking for something really special – choose Domaine Galevan’s outstanding Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or the Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino.

And for dessert, don’t miss that unique Italian dessert wine crafted from air-dried grapes, aged years in barrel and released just in time for Easter, Sorelli Vinsanto del Chianti Classico. Want to ‘go local’ for your Easter celebration? On the lighter side consider a crisp, fresh unoaked Chardonnay from Fielding Estates or the versatile Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé. If you’re looking for a weightier offering, then choose the juicy structured Pinot Noir 2007 from Château des Charmes or the warm well balanced Vintage Ink Merlot-Cabernet.

Rejoice in the early spring weather, as the crocuses poke their heads up to take in those warm early rays of sunshine—and hope that the vines don’t start to leaf out just yet!


Cheers & Enjoy! – Susan



If I only had $100, I would buy …
LCBO Vintages Release as of Saturday, March 31, 2012


Tenuta S. Anna ‘Extra Dry’ Prosecco n/v

DOC Prosecco, Italy
$15.95 (Vintages #169128) 11.5% alcohol

Offering a fine frothy persistent mousse, this is a lovely crisp Prosecco that delivers an outstanding balance of crisp fresh fruit flavours—apple, pear and lemon-lime to the fore—and a bright invigorating texture. The finish is clean, long lasting and refreshing. Match this classic to another—prosciutto and melon. An excellent value, pick up a few bottles to enjoy with friends.



Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé 2011

VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

$15.95 (Vintages #172643) 12.5% alcohol
Charming salmon pink, this perennial favourite is produced from a blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay. An appealing fresh floral note and cherry/berry aromas rush from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, deftly balanced, it’s clean, fruity and lively on the palate, the red fruit and juicy texture offering a delightfully tasty, crisp and flavourful finish. Sip away! 



Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Chardonnay/Viognier 2010

Mendoza, Argentina

$14.95 (Vintages #262097) 13.5% alcohol
This finely crafted award winner offers tempting aromas—floral, stone fruit, mineral and citrus. Dry, ample and round, it’s well balanced and flavourful, fresh acidity and minerality balancing orchard fruit and citrus zest, notes of spice-infused toast lingering on the extended finish. An excellent value and a good choice for Easter dinner.


Hecht & Bannier Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2008

AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages, France

$22.95 (Vintages #142802) 15.0% alcohol

This blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah offers depth of colour and of flavours. There’s complexity on the nose—smoke, herbal and floral aromas, a mineral component and rich dark fruit. An intriguing wine that brings you back for another taste, it’s subtly structured and satiny in texture, showcasing dark fruit and enticingly complex flavours of herbs, toast and tangy pepper. It finishes dry and tantalizing. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy now and to sample over the next few years.



Finca Sobreño Crianza 2008

DO Toro, Spain

$17.95 (Vintages #40360) 14.5% alcohol

This Tempranillo is an excellent value, whether to enjoy now or in the future. Deep ruby garnet, it’s produced from hand-harvested grapes from the producer’s oldest vineyards and aged in American oak. It entices with aromas of cedar, balsamic, sweet ripe dark fruit and subtle floral notes. Dry, medium-full bodied, structured and robust, the perceptible tannins and lively acidity are a match for the ripe fruit, exotic spice and notes of espresso roast. The lasting finish is warm and spicy. Enjoy with roasted stuffed peppers, or a classic paella.



Grand Total: $87.75


Worth the splurge:
An outstanding cellar-worthy Châteauneuf-du-Pape . . .

Galévan Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
$41.95 (251603) 14.5% alcohol
This is quite a striking Châteauneuf from winemaker Coralie Goumarre, whose Rhône blend ‘Paroles de Femme’ was featured in an earlier Vintages release. Grenache forms the base, with Mouvèdre and Syrah in support for this dry, full bodied and earthy wine. The nose is autumnal in character—forest floor, mushroom, herbs. The palate is structured with perceptible tannins, fresh acidity and compelling flavours of cherry/berry fruit, plum, herbs, spice and cocoa. Weighty yet fresh on the finish, it’s a match for rich roast meat dishes and will cellar medium term.

Hola España! If you enjoy Spanish wines, you’ll want to pay particular attention to the March 17 LCBO Vintages release. Included are a range of styles and varietals, including vibrant Albariño from Rías Baixas on the Atlantic, lively Verdejo from Rueda, Mencia from Bierzo and Monastrell from the plateaux of Almansa and Jumilla. There are also Tempranillo-based wines from the classic denominations of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Almost all of these wines are under $20, many of them aged several years, offering great value.

As an example, the Cerro Añon Reserva blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano is from the 2005 vintage, the Vega Sauco Adoremus Tempranillo from the 2004 vintage. A younger wine such as the Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell is a steal at $13.95.

Pick up the Vintages catalogue for suggested food matches to some of Spain’s signature grapes! If you enjoy the classic style of dry sparkling wine, produced using Pinot Noir and/or Chardonnay in what is known as the ‘Traditional Method’ (a precise measure of still wine, sugar and yeast is added during bottling, kick-starting the second fermentation in bottle, after which the wine rests on the lees and acquires yeasty, toasty notes), the secondary feature will be of interest. The selection ranges from Heidsieck Champagne through the Okanagan’s See Ya Later Ranch Brut, to the very tasty South African Graham Beck Brut sparkling. If you’re into pink, choose the Lefèvre Rémondet Crémant Rosé from Burgundy, Mumm Napa’s Sparkling Rosé, or Niagara’s G. Marquis Ice Rosé kissed with a touch of Cab Franc ice wine.

There are some unique, iconic wines in this release, including the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, the Bordeaux-style red blend Opus One by Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Concha & Toro’s Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvginon, Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and my absolute favorite, the Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2002. Released following the death of its legendary winemaker Giuseppe Quintarelli earlier this year, it’s not to be missed. Among the Canadian wines, Flat Rock’s Twisted white wine is always fresh and flavourful, Henry of Pelham’s Barrel Fermented Chardonnay is a well-crafted value, and the Aces Okanagan Seven Deuce Red is substantial and tasty—and entertaining!

Cheers and Enjoy,
Susan

If I only had $100, I would buy . . .
LCBO Vintages Release as of Saturday, March 17, 2012

See Ya Later Ranch Brut n/v
VQA Okanagan Valley, B.C.
$20.95 (Vintages #271049) 12.5% alcohol
Here’s a very nice value from the south-central Okanagan, a well-crafted sparkler also produced using the traditional method. Dry, medium bodied, it’s fresh with aromas of grilled grapefruit, floral notes and a hint of nut. The nutty note replays on the dry, medium-bodied palate, fine mousse offering a clean fresh texture and carrying attractive flavours of citrus and orchard fruit through an extended, lively finish. Pick up a few bottles to celebrate spring!

Lefèvre Rémondet Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé n/v
AOC Bourgogne, France
$15.95 (Vintages #265306) 12.0% alcohol
You can’t go wrong with this great value from Burgundy. The color of fresh cranberry juice, it offers appealing clean aromas of red berry fruit and lightly-grilled toast. The mousse is fine and delicate, fresh red fruit flavours crisp and bright—think cranberry, pie cherry and red currant. It finishes tangy, crisp and fruity. What’s not to like—stockpile a few bottles for casual gatherings.

Cerro Añon Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja, Spain
$18.95 (Vintages #114306) 14.0% alcohol
Principally Tempranillo, this blend displays its lengthy oak aging with notes of vanilla, sandalwood and toast adorning red and black berries. Dry, medium-full bodied, plush and lively fruit wraps around still-perceptible tannins and fresh acidity, nuances of vanilla and sweet spice adding complexity. Charry toasty notes persist on the lasting dry yet fruit-filled finish. A substantial wine crafted for long-term cellaring, offering excellent value.

Wakefield Shiraz 2009
Clare Valley, Australia$17.95 (Vintages #943787)) 14.0% alcohol
From one of Australia’s first families of wine, this is a dry, substantial wine showcasing a subtle yet defined structure. Fragrant with ripe berries, spice, pepper and vanilla, the texture is tangy with fresh acidity, ripe tannins creating a clean frame for the spice-infused dark fruits washing across the palate and through the toasty finish. You’ll want a few bottles of this award-winning wine to enjoy now and to cellar medium term.

Quinta Nova Pomares 2009
DOC Douro, Portugal
$16.95 (Vintages #214007) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this attractive blend of classic Port grapes features high-toned aromas and flavours of red fruit, spice, dried herbs and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, the impact on the palate is lively and fresh, the texture is appealingly silky, the tannins sleek and subtle, the finish tangy and refreshing. A well crafted wine that offers good value, drinking well now and cellarable short term.

Grand Total: $90.75

Worth the splurge: An iconic wine from a legendary producer …

Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2002
DOC Valpolicella, Italy
$79.95 (986117) 15.0% alcohol
Can a wine engender bliss? If so, this is the one! A decade old, released just after the death of its illustrious winemaker, Giuseppe Quintarelli, this fine garnet wine offers subtlty, elegance, depth and pure tasting joy. On the nose, whispers of leather, earth, evolved fruit, dried cherries, subtle spice and vanilla layer, mingle and merge on the palate. Pure silk, the texture is lush yet remarkably fresh, the tannins supple. There’s a sense of warmth and earthiness, of exquisite integration and balance, and a finish that lasts and lasts. Dinner out or this wine – no contest!

French wine fans will enjoy the March 3rd LCBO Vintages segment featuring signature varieties of France, many of which have now proliferated around the globe. Among the whites are classic crisp intensely aromatic varietals from Alsace (Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer), Chardonnay in two unique styles from Burgundy (Chablis and Meursault), and a vibrant penetrating Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire (Sancerre). The selection of French red wines in the feature provides the opportunity to taste well-known single-varietal wines, such as Morgon (Gamay), Volnay (Pinot Noir), Crozes-Hermitage (Syrah) and Cahors (Malbec). For a sampling of the unique blends found in some of France’s best-known appellations, try a Cabernet or Merlot-dominated Bordeaux, a Grenache-based Vacqueyras or Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or a Grenache-Carignan blend from the South. The selection emphasizes the wide range of terroir and wine styles to be found in this long-established Old World region.

There’s also a fabulous selection of Chilean Carmenère red wines in this release with a French connection! Did you know that Carmenère grape was part of the Bordeaux red wine blend prior to the vineyard devastation caused by infamous plant louse phylloxera? The grape was brought to Chile in the mid-1800s and misidentified as the Merlot grape until the mid-1990s. It’s a late-ripening varietal that prefers richer clay soils. When fully ripened, it displays an intense purple-red hue, a full velvety texture, aromas of berry fruit, spice and chocolate. The wines in this selection range from the iconic Montes Purple Angel, to Natura’s organic Carmenère. Enjoy these substantial and flavourful wines.

There are several good values at or under $15, including Cattail Creek ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc, Don Cristobal 1492 Bonarda, Umani Ronchi ‘San Lorenzo’ Rosso Conero, Casa Silva Carmenère, Château de Parenchères and Palacios Remondo La Vendimia.

Among the Canadian wines, I would recommend the robust Jackson-Triggs Gold Series Sunrock Vineyard Shiraz  and the round, fruity Featherstone Red Tail Merlot.

Cheers and Enjoy,
Susan

If I only had $100, I would buy . . .
LCBO Vintages Release as of Saturday, March 3, 2012

Marimar Estate ‘La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007

Russian River Valley, California
$19.95 (Vintages #270090) 14.2% alcohol
Produced from organic grapes grown in a vineyard named after Miguel Torres, this Chardonnay has loads of personality. Dry, medium-full bodied white wine, it’s fragrant with ripe apple, pear and pineapple mingling with nutty, spicy aromas. Round, silky yet juicy and fresh, it delivers the zing of citrus, hints of caramel apple and roasted pear and a long mouthwatering finish. Enjoy now with chicken casserole or cellar 3-5 years.

Yalumba ‘The Y Series’ Viognier 2011

South Australia
$15.95 (Vintages #624502) 13.5% alcohol
Featuring perfumed floral and fruit aromas, this dry, mid-full bodied white wine is reliably good. It delivers nicely matched acidity and depth of fruit flavours—stone fruit and  sweet citrus to the fore—finishing with an appealing slightly bitter hint of zest adding tang to the fruit.

Perrin & Fils ‘Les Christins’ Vacqueyras 2009

AOC Vacqueyras, France
$23.95 (Vintages #973453) 14.5% alcohol
This appealing red wine blend of Grenache (dominantly) and Syrah displays great integration and balance while delivering a complex array of aromas—sweet fruit, spiced vanilla, floral notes and sweet dried herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied red wine, the sweetness of licorice mingles with the rich fruit flavours across the palate, subtle nuances of spice and toast persisting on the smooth supple finish. Enjoy it now or cellar medium term.

Misiones de Rengo ‘Gran Reserva Cuvée’ Carmenère 2010

Rapel Valley
$19.95 (Vintages #264937) 14.0% alcohol
Intriguing notes of dried herbs, flowers, red berries, cherries and exotic spice drift from the glass of this dry, medium-full bodied red wine. The framing is subtle, the texture fresh, well-integrated oak exists in fine balance with delicious red fruit and attractive notes of spiced dark chocolate. Quite refined, offering persistent fruit and notes of spice and toast on the lasting finish, this is a very good value that will cellar medium term.

Umani Ronchi ‘San Lorenzo’ Rosso Conero 2008
 DOCRosso Conero, Italy

$14.95 (Vintages #981191) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby violet, this is a very nice valued red wine produced from the Montepulciano grape, part of the wine aged in barrique and large cask. Aromas of sweet ripe fruit, black licorice, herbs and earth lift from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, the dark berry fruit is framed by sleek tannins and lively acidity, earthy notes and hints of char adding layers of flavour that persist through the mouthwatering dry finish. Enjoy now or cellar short term.

Grand Total: $94.75

Savvy Selections wine of the month club
Featuring Good Earth Food & Wine Co.

- February 2012 -

Drive down the gravel laneway, past the baskets of fruit set out for sale (on the honor system) & the pastoral campus of Good Earth Cooking School and Winery comes into view. The outdoor BBQ pit & herb garden, where classes are held in fine summer weather, sits beside the small rustic barn housing the indoor cooking school. To the left is a more recent structure, consistent still with the relaxed farmhouse style, housing the tasting room & shop, the indoor dining room & the fabulous outdoor patio with its lofty beam ceiling. From there, you look out over gardens & vineyards as you enjoy the decidedly delicious local lunch menu with a glass (or two) of The Good Wine.

This place is deeply rooted in history. Nicolette Novak, owner & entrepreneur extraordinaire, has lived on this farm most of her life. Her father emigrated from Czechoslovakia, her mother from Ireland. They started with five acres of stone fruit, then over the next two decades, their property grew to 220 acres. Growing up, Nicolette worked closely with her dad on the farm, yet was determined to create her own life, pursuing a degree in International Relations at University of Toronto with a plan to enter the foreign service. At age 28, she was working in Toronto when everything changed. Her father died in a tragic car accident. Nicolette returned to the farm & in her inimitable & yes, determined way, took over, starting with the peach harvest on a farm that, at that time, produced 2 million pounds of fruit!

One year ran into another & Nicolette realized she really enjoyed what she was doing. But the economics weren’t working, so she sold half of the land & moved back to Toronto. But the farm beckoned. A few years later, she moved back to Niagara with the idea of transforming the property into a small cooking school. Renown teacher & chef Michael Olsen helped her define the concept & in 1998, The Good Earth Cooking School opened. Nicolette’s friendliness & candor, the quality of the experience & the food, the relaxed environment all worked their magic & created an entrepreneurial success.

With winemaking at the back of her mind, Nicolette planted vines on 8 acres of the 55-acre property & released her first wine in 2008. “The wine is a great complement to the food, and was a natural way to extend the business,” she explains. Taking a deep breath, in 2010, she took the plunge to establish a bistro, dining room & tasting room. And there’s no looking back! The quality of the wine, the food & the total experience will entice you to this quaint property again & again.

 We’re delighted to showcase in February’s Savvy Selections wine of the month club:

• The Good Wine Chardonnay VQA 2009 – an elegant well-balanced white wine
• The Good Wine Rosé VQA 2010 – Drink rose wines in February? Especially this one as it is Good Earth’s signature & a hands down favorite of our Sommeliers
• The Good Pinot Noir VQA 2009 – a classic Pinot Noir with an earthy complex

You won’t find these wines at the LCBO

If you would like more of these premium wines from Good Earth, simply call on us to arrange an order for you.

Cheers & Enjoy!

- Debbie & Savvy Team

The Good Earth Food & Wine Co.

Presented by Sommelier Susan Desjardins

There’s a theme running through everything that Nicolette Novak turns her hand to & that is ‘local’. As she puts it, the cooking school, the bistro & the winery all provide the opportunity to utilize & showcase fresh local produce & outstanding local talent. The menu at the bistro reflects the seasons, the bite-size sip/savour menu offering a fabulous opportunity to enjoy the food presentation, the tantalizing mingling aromas of food & wine. As one of the local entrepreneurs on the forefront of the farm-to-table movement, Nicolette has also created a ‘slow food’ context for those of us who simply love the experience of eating tasty fresh food in a relaxing, appealing ambience. What delights her about the expanded operation? “I get huge satisfaction knowing I can offer something special to the people who come through my world. It’s fun, meeting wonderful people all the time. It’s a really happy place!”

And this entire experience is created by local people, hand-picked, like her fruit, by Nicolette. Flat Rock Cellars winery owner Ed Madronich encouraged her venture, offering as consultant winemaker Ross Wise, a ‘Kiwi’ whose passion for great wine is matched by his passion for food & good times. “As the winery developed,” says Nicolette, “I felt it was important to have a winemaker as part of the family. I heard about Dré [Andrea Glass] & was highly recommended by Ann Sperling (winemaker at Malivoire Wine & Southbrook Vineyards).”

A 2006 graduate of the Niagara College Winery and Viticulture Technology program, Dré is a native of Niagara & a member of a longstanding local farm family. Dré brings extensive wine-related experience to the table (pardon the pun!) as an assistant winemaker in Argentina & as a cellar hand in California as well having a hand at Niagara wineries, including Flat Rock, Southbrook and Reif (March Savvy Selection feature winery). She also brings focus & intensity to the role of winemaker, as evidenced when she joined us for the tasting at the bistro, water glass in hand. “Oh, I’m just bottling this wine and I thought you might like to taste the barrel sample. I think it has great potential . . .” And so did we! Dré exudes confidence and commitment to her craft and is, says Nicolette, quite fearless and multi-talented.

In the vineyard, Nicolette partners with Chris Andrewes, a lifetime friend of Nicolette’s whose own farm is adjacent to The Good Earth. Chris & his family have worked with Nicolette over many years to ensure the beauty & productivity of The Good Earth orchards. He now leases some of her land & has planted Chardonnay & Pinot Noir. “We work very closely together on decisions & Chris’s expertise in tending the vineyards has been recognized by others in the industry. Cave Spring has recently called on him to manage their vineyards.”

The great service & food in the bistro is only enhanced by the tasting & browsing experience in the bright & tastefully appointed retail shop. It is here where you meet Amanda McSpadden. After graduating as a Baker’s apprentice from the Niagara College Culinary Management program, she worked at a number of local enterprises before finding her way to The Good Earth as a Resident Chef. Wanting to complete her apprenticeship, she left for a stint with celebrity chefs Michael & Anna Olsen, returning to The Good Earth as a certified Pastry Chef. You will find Amanda’s cheerful reception when you visit the winery retail shop.

Then, there’s Michael Pasto, Nicolette’s highly experienced, skilled head chef & Mike McColl, who you’ll find manning the BBQ during the outdoor grilling season. But really, we need to focus on the wine . . .

Getting started, Nicolette bought in grapes from trusted suppliers, but with the 2010 vintage, she has reached her goal of producing wine from sustainably managed estate-grown fruit. The focus is on varietals that thrive in the Niagara Peninsula & on her property—Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir & Cabernet Franc. As a craft winery, Nicolette expects to produce in the order of 2300 cases at full production.

Enjoy the wines featured in this mid-winter selection, try The Good Wine with some of the delicious menu items at ZenKitchen or Domus Cafe if you’re in Ottawa, or plan a visit to Niagara and savour the entire experience by the fireplace in the cosy dining room this winter, or alfresco at the bistro later in the year.  You are always invited!

 Cheers & Enjoy this month’s Savvy Selections wines

 ~ Our Sommeliers suggest these recipes to enjoy with the Savvy Selections ~

With The Good Chardonnay…
Chicken Saltimboca
The Good Earth Cooking School
Serves 3

Ingredients
6 boneless skinless chicken thighs
6 slices prosciutto
2 Tbsp capers
6 cloves garlic, minced (or to taste)
12 fresh sage leaves
12 kalamata olives, pitted
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes
2 Tbsp chopped fresh thyme
2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsp chopped fresh sage
4 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp grapeseed oil
½ C white wine

Method

1. Preheat oven to 375F.
2. On a cutting board, place a chicken thigh between 2 sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet or heavy pan, gently pound chicken until it is an even ½ to ¼ “ thickness. Repeat with remaining thighs.
3. Lay out all the pounded thighs. Season liberally with salt & pepper. Lay 2 sage leaves, 6 capers, 1 tsp garlic & 4-5 olives in the middle of each chicken thigh. Roll each piece from end to end to form a tight roll. Lay out the prosciutto slices. Place a chicken roll at the edge & roll tightly. Skewer with a toothpick in order to keep rolled.
4. Heat a large oven proof frying pan over high heat. Add 1 Tbsp butter & the grapeseed oil to the pan. Add the chicken seam side down & sear, turning to brown all sides. Transfer the pan to the oven & bake for 10 minutes.
5. Remove from the oven & transfer the chicken onto a plate. Drain off any excess oil & fat, making sure not to scrape out the tasty bits   
6. Return the pan to low heat. Deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping the aforementioned tasty bits with a wooden spoon. Cook the wine for about 1 minute Add the tomatoes, herbs & any extra ingredients left from the chicken stuffing process. Cook for an additional minute. Add the remaining butter & cook for 1 minute. Return the chicken to the pan, turning the heat down to low & cook to reheat the chicken, about 2 minutes. Serve the chicken with wilted spinach. Spoon the sauce onto the chicken upon serving.

With The Good Rosé …
Gnocchi Pillow with Sage Brown Butter Sauce
From The Good Earth Cooking School
Serves 6

Ingredients
2 C ricotta
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
½ C grated parmesan cheese
¾ C all-purpose flour
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
Pinch salt & pepper

Brown Butter Sauce
1 C + 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cubed
1 shallot, diced
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
¼ C thinly sliced fresh sage
¼ C toasted hazelnuts, chopped
¼ C freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Method

1. In a bowl, combine the ricotta, eggs, egg yolk, nutmeg, salt & pepper. Add the remaining ingredients, mixing well with a wooden spoon. The mixture will be slightly sticky.
2. On a well-floured surface, section the dough into 8 equal parts & roll out into long ‘logs’ of approximately ¾ to 1” diameter. Create the gnocchi by cutting each log into ¾ to 1” pieces Bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Drop about a quarter of the gnocchi into the water When the gnocchi float, cook for an additional minute.
3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to a cold water bath. This will stop the cooking and ‘set’ the gnocchi Repeat until all the gnocchi are cooked. Strain, lightly oil, and lay out in a lightly oiled baking sheet.
4. At this point you can refrigerate or freeze the gnocchi for future use. To reheat, simply bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the gnocchi, cooking just long enough to heat through. Strain & serve.

 Method – Brown Butter Sauce

1.  In a large frying pan, melt 2 Tbsp butter & add shallots. You pan needs to be large enough to accommodate all the gnocchi, or as many as you wish to cook. Cook butter for 2 minutes over medium heat. Add the remaining butter. Turn down the heat to a low setting & continue to cook for 8 minutes. The butter will begin to foam & take on a golden colour. Remove from heat.
2. Carefully add the sage & hazelnuts. Add cooked gnocchi & toss gently. Garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano

With The Good Pinot Noir…
Faux Duck Confit with Fresh Thyme
Laura Calder, Dinner Chez Moi
Serves 4

Ingredients
4 duck legs
2 garlic cloves, halved
salt & pepper
¼ C duck fat, cut into pieces
8 sprigs fresh thyme

Method

1. Cut around the end of the duck legs (like cutting around the wrapper at the top of a bottle of wine), going through the tendon so that the legs will self-French during cooking. Rub the legs well with garlic & season with salt & pepper.
2. Heat the oven to 300F. Lay the duck legs fat side down in a large oven-proof frying pan Scatter the duck fat around them and tuck in the thyme sprigs Turn the heat to medium & render the fat on the legs, up to 15 minutes.  
3. Once the fat is a pool around the duck, turn the legs skin side up. Cover the pan with a lid or foil, sealing tightly, and transfer to the oven. Bake 2 ½ hours, until the meat falls from the bone. Remove the legs from the fat and lay skin side up on a baking sheet.
4. Turn the oven to broil, but leave the rack in the middle of the oven. Broil the legs until the skin is golden and crisp, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately, with thyme-infused roasted root veggies and wilted spinach. Sip and savour!  

The February 18th LCBO Vintages release showcases the depth and breadth of the LCBO’s global reach and the wide-ranging tastes of you, its customers. Your favorites are featured (Customer Faves), wines from around the world, of various styles at differing price points. This edition of If I had $100 focuses on customer choices, including a Crèmant de Bourgogne (you’re probably out of bubbly after Valentine’s Day!), a clean dry New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, three great reds from France, Italy and Spain, and a powerful Australian Shiraz as an optional wine if you have extra $$ to splurge. There are, of course, many other wines to choose from in this feature, from great-value wines to tried and true crowd pleasers, through cellarable iconic wines—don’t hesitate to do a little shopping on your own!

This release also offers a unique opportunity to sample three Chardonnays crafted by Thomas Bachelder, former celebrated winemaker at Le Clos Jordanne turned ‘wine gypsy’. His goal is to let the cool-climate terroir of Niagara, Oregon and Burgundy speak through these beautifully balanced wines.

And for those fans of 13^th Street Winery Riesling, there is a duo in the Terroir feature that offers a great opportunity to contrast and compare.

In the main release is an excellent Mike Weir Wines Riesling (unbelievably only $14.95) which you may also enjoy. There’s a good selection of Kosher wines in this release, of which I would recommend the Castell d’Olerdola Brut Cava, the Recanati Shiraz, and the Côtes du Rhône blend from Vignobles David.

For good value under $15, try the Perrin & Fils Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc and the Hacienda Araucano ‘Reserva’ Syrah. Looking for a fabulous wine from an iconic producer. Choose the customer favorite, Duckhorn Merlot.

Cheers & Enjoy,
Susan

If I only had $100, I would buy . . .
LCBO Vintages Release as of Saturday, February 18, 2012

Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Ivoire’ Brut Blanc de Blancs n/v

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne, France
$18.95 (Vintages #48801) 12.0% alcohol
Dry, light in body, offering a fine creamy mousse, this lovely Crémant balances refreshing vibrant acidity, clean minerality and subtle notes of citrus, green apple and brioche. Long and bright on the finish, it is an excellent value and can be enjoyed on its own or with light appetizers.

Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2011

Marlboroug, New Zealand
$15.95 (Vintages #981670) 13.0% alcohol
Almost transparent, this wine offers a harmonious profile and the attractive pungency of lime, grapefruit, gooseberry and fresh herbs—oregano comes to mind. Dry, medium bodied, it’s juicy and crisp, with a tangy, refreshing slightly pithy finish. Try it with a crustless goat cheese and vegetable quiche.

Château Saint-Roch Chimères 2009

AOC Côtes du Rousillon-Villages
$18.95 (Vintages #119354) 14.5% alcohol
This blend of Grenache and Syrah with a dash of Carignan delivers on all counts. The aromas are enticing and complex—sweet fruit underlies herbal/lavender notes, a mineral character, hints of spiced chocolate. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s depth and breadth to the fruit—blackberry, plum and tangy raspberry—a refreshing texture, ripe tannins and a nuance of spiced vanilla. The finish is warm, lasting and loaded with ripe fruit. A great value, enjoy it now with herbed lamb chops or cellar medium term.

Masi Brolo di Campofiorin 2007

IGT Rosso del Veronese Appaxximento, Italy
$24.95 (Vintages #976092) 14.0% alcohol
Dense, robust, inky and concentrated, this is another beautifully crafted winner, commanding attention with intense aromas of dark fruit, smoke, earth and dried fruits. Offering great substance, structure and weight, it’s dry, velvety and intensely flavourful, with a punch of spice and pepper lifting the concentrated dark fruit. Enjoy the slightly warm, spicy, well-balanced finish. Serve with a strongly flavoured meat dish, or cellar medium term.

Bodegas Lan Crianza 2007

DOCa Rioja, Spain
$15.95 (Vintages #166538) 13.5% alcohol
This classic ruby-toned Tempranillo entices with layered aromas of red fruit, spice, vanilla and hints of flowers and leather. Dry, medium-full bodied, well-framed red fruit is matched with lively acidity, spicy notes tingling on the palate, a peppery note adding a tang to the full fruity finish. Enjoy with a cheesy tourtière.

Grand Total: $94.75

Worth the splurge  
A big bold Australian Shiraz that’s always a winner!

 Pirramimma Shiraz 2009

McLaren Vale, Australia
$26.95 (987784) 15.5% alcohol
Inky and intense from start to finish, this is a big, robust, flavourful wine with great depth of flavour and well-defined structure. Intense aromas of sweet dark fruit, dried fruit, licorice allsorts, spice and vanilla captivate. The fruit jumps to the fore on the palate and carries right through the extended finish, subtle acidity and ripe tannins bringing balance, spice and pepper tantalizing. This calls for a big juicy steak with a balsamic herb dressing. Cellar medium term.